All the Front Loader washers that I have seen have a door that opens from the right, with hinges on the left. So a FL washer will fit in your space and the door will open just fine. My FridGEmore set is stacked. On the matching dryer, you can switch the hinges on the door so that it opens from either the right or the left. Usually, the dryer door opens from the left, hinges on the right so that when you put the pair side-by-side (washer left, dryer right) the doors open out from the middle, as it were. Since mine are stacked, I had the installers switch the door hinges on the dryer so the doors both open the same way. If you consider this option, make sure the dryer you purchase will allow you to switch the hinges to the left side. In your space, stacking the washer and dryer (with the dryer door set up to open the same way as the washer door) means that BOTH doors would be able to swing 180 degrees. You may not see stacked units in model homes, but I assure you that there are lots of homes that have the units stacked. (Besides, who cares what they do in model homes? This is your home - do what works for you.) I don't think there's one best way to install the laundry equipment when it comes to side-by-side vs. stacked. It's more a matter of personal preference and how you want to use the space. My personal experience has been that loading and unloading the washer is not a big issue: I put clothes in, I take them out and move them up to the open dryer. I like having the dryer at eye level. I tend to take clothes out of the dryer and hang them up right away. I may take some items out early, I may take some items out slightly damp, etc. Being able to do all my dryer unloading "fiddling" without bending over is very convenient. CMC

We had a similar problem. (See laundry room puzzlement for problem and solution we came up with) Our biggest problem was the width, but depth was an issue as well. I just measured our Electrolux 60 series washer and dryer and from front to back installed it takes up 30 inches. My husband installed a different dryer vent cover and it is almost flush with the wall. The only problem we ran into is a weird dryer plug that was on the floor, but stuck out two inches. We ended up having to go higher with our platform than originally planned and now it is hard to reach the water shut off. Fortunately we have access behind the washer and dryer and we're having a plumber install a shut off switch in case of emergency. Maybe post pictures and people here can help you solve the problem.

Patricia - I will have a sink base and cabinet to the left and right so your example doesnt apply. :) Roanoke - My goal is to hide the plumbing, I agree. I can definitely run water supply lines (I think) from inside the sink base but not sure what to do about the height and plumbing if I don't install a washer box. Any ideas? As far as support I don't see any reason why I cant run a 2x4 across the back, I just need to know what kind of cabinet sides to use because most base furniture is 24" deep and in the pictures the sides look to be deeper. The only one that has a sunk base the same depth is the first photo after my actual laundry room and I do like the staggered look cause its such a small place it makes working at the sink not so tight.

I saw an ad in the local nextdoor marketplace. Someone bought a home in one of our upscale neighborhoods and bought a brand new Washer and Dryer, so they were selling the Speed Queen set for $100.00 that came with the house. Knowing that my Amana washer and dryer were built in 1995 and are close to the end of their useful life, I jumped on buying a used set by Speed Queen that was built prior to their redesign disaster. The old Maytag, Speed Queen and Amana w/d were work horses. Whirlpool bought out Maytag, Amana, Jenn-Air, and KitchenAid and the quality is not what it once was. Newer machines just don't have the longevity of the old machines and the efficiency standards have reduced the cleaning quality. I expect I will get another 20 years from the used Speed Queens.