pricing for the heatpump isn't terrible. Its nice equipment. 2 stage condensorm variable speed blower. - etc. Can't you have this contractor do the additional electric work for a good price? They don't sound too terrible. How good are your windows? What type of insulation do you have in walls and attic? 9ft celings everywhere and some rooms with 12ft and 16ft is alot of space with 2600 sq. feet. 4 tons could be too small. I would prefer 5-ton 2 stage. You could run most the time at low stage. Its possible your ductwork won't support more than 3.5/4 ton though. I wouldn't think you would need new electric to go outside to your new heatpump condensor. Its very possible you would need new electric to the air-handler to power the heat-strip. Regarding the electric and the hotwater tank you might want to consider a heatpump hot water tank to save on your electric consumption. What do you pay for electric? You could try calling some contractors and asking for some phone estimates. If they can't give you a rough idea over the phone tell them sorry. There is contractors that want business and are competitive. You need to find them when they are slow. Maybe they are still busy because of the winter season. btw- how does the current A/C work on hot days? is your ductowork noisy? I think the 2-year warranty is good. Hopefully any problems with the equipment install would be uncovered in 2 years.

giomo I will take a crack at your question. Prices vary between markets and the degree of HVAC competitive forces at work. probably in the 20K range. IMO

Forgot to add - we are adding a new return up and down, new supply up, increasing some duct diameters, replacing plenum, etc. I think ductwork will be much better after the replacement. One thing carrier vendor recommended was repositioned supply feeds so they are not within 17" of end of rigid supply duct (currently flex hoses are connected 6" from end), and adding "scoops" in the duct to direct air towards a media room near the end of the supply duct that gets hot in the summer. He said both of these would help put more air in that room. There is a small return in that room - 7" flex. But return is also near end of the return duct and he didn't feel increasing the 7" duct would do too much vs those supply changes (other vendors suggested increasing that flex duct diameter). The return in a shallow in-wall job with 14x14 grill. No one else suggested these particular changes. Does this sound like a good approach to get more air in that room. (in addition to another independent return to another room).

Right now gas is cheap. People aren't thinking about spending the extra money on a heatpump. But right now your replacing your hvac and now is the time to upgrade if your gonna ever do it. This new system your gonna have is probably going to be in your home 15 years or more. I have dual fuel and this year I"m probably gonna raise my switchpoint temp for heatpump to gas to 30 or 35 degrees since gas is cheap and electric is not exactly a bargain. Its nice to have extra options though. If you can get a heatpump for some extra money like $500 its totally worth it. You can use it very little if you like (say at 40 degrees F and above since gas is inexpensive). I would consider the interruption program. When that affects you - you'll be using the gas anyway cause thats during the most high demand cold weather. It might affect you in the summer. I would try telling the contractor you have a deal on the quote if you give me the heatpump upgrade for 'X' amount of dollars. I have a focus pro wireless thermostat kit. Its great for dual fuel and multiple stages of heat. I like it. Mine has an outdoor temp sensor that interfaces with it. I can't control humidity with mine but that is something used for climates with long hot humid summers. I think evolution can control house humidity.