Thanks for the responses. I have printed a copy of this page just for reference. Thanks especiially for the link tiger. When the time comes it looks like it will be a more modern heat pump unless they start destroying the hydroelectric dams like some of our local environmentalists want. Then I'll be back to find the right one. My stepson just upgraded at a cost that astounded me. I think I'll start now investigating local contractors. I read a lot about doing the heat balance calculations and how only a few are qualified. Was wondering if it would be appropriate to pay to have one done so I wouldn't be tied to that contractor's products? Thanks again. Nerdy

dabbindan, Yes, I got a Bryant system and they are indeed 100% the same as the Carrier ones. Only the brand sticker is different. So get a quote on the same models from each side and pick the cheapest. As for the heat pump vs a/c... heck, if you are that unsure about the heat pump reliability with it turning on and off all the time, just use it as an a/c only. But still buy the Heat Pump. If you only use it in a/c mode, then it is using the same mechanical components as a normal a/c. The reversing valves just won't activate to heat mode. With regard to the 90 furnace though, I'd be more concerned over getting an above 80 high efficienecy furnace's reliability than the heat pump. Make sure you ask about and read up on their known quirks and issues too. Just cause it's just a burning flame doesn't mean it doesn't have LOTS of complex circuits and parts that can fail as well. I know the 80 AFUE furnaces are simpler and more reliable than the 90+ ones. That difference might be small, but it's no smaller than worrying about a heat pump's reliability. Hope that gives you some more to think about...

Hello Your heat pump air-to-air sounds like the best options. If you dont need to use it for water the COP is quite high, usually COP-3-4. The COP means a ratio of what you get out vs what you put in. The COP of 3 is 3 times the heaat of what you put in. There are a number, some that get a COP of around 5 using source of 30F. Others list between 3-4 quite generally. Carrier is a maker of one type which has a COP of 3 and is a small size. When the source (outdoor temp) is low the COP goes down as does the output. (Below freezing especially). Its worth having an oil or wood or gas heater to go with the system as back up. Heat pumps that can heat water have to work harder as the water is warmer than the air used in buildings, so they use expensive CO2 heat pumps which will set you back about $5K easily. Therefore I would suggest keeping a boiler system, outdoor boiler. An indoor stove needs fresh air which is not ideal for heat pump system which works ideally with heat recovery on the ventilation system (extract heat from waste air at 90% or so efficiency). A neat approach may be to operate an air -to-air heat pump, aim for as high a COP as possible, but install a gas boiler if you have this. The smaller boilers, condensing systems, are surprisingly cheap. If you install a waste water heat recovery system which is just aa heat exchanger on you waste water from your shower, you can half the energy you need and thereby get by with a smaller boiler and consume only about 4-5kWh/day for shower water. A condensing boiler works most efficiently when working with water heating rather than central heating, and plus, the typical condensing system now heats so quickly that you dont need a hot water tank, reducing loses. You would still have at least 15KW available for heating the home. This can be done by putting in a heating loop into the air ducting that is shared with the air-pump. This could be a compact fan assisted system. There would be expense in heating controls for all the ducting. However, if you cannot put in ducting, then you can install a water radiator central heating system. To work with a heat pump, you can go for the super-efficient CO2 based systems that are emerging but expensive. The efficiency can be raised if the heat is needed at a low temperature, so requiring either under-floor heating or a 'fan assisted radiator' which extract more heat and can return the water to the heat pump much cooler than normal radiators, and require a lower temperature, raising COP. I would go with: Waste water heat exchanger ( I guess $500 est with capital cost $200-$300 plus basic installation if incorporated with a boiler installation and pipework anyway) -this will reduce the energy requirement of the condensing boiler, potentially allowing a smaller system. Condensing boiler - 15-25kW output, 90% efficient, capital cost $500 ebay Air-to-Air heat pump (in loft) - COP 3-5 (later figure seen in an Austrian GSHP but should work with airsource unless outside air is usually very cold?) cost? controls? Fan assisted radiator in ducting for backup (run off boiler)? Ventilation heat recovery

If the drain works, then there is no need for a condensate pump. Who somebody trying to sell you a pump? I did not see a response as to whether the 2 ton AC kept you cool in the summer. What temperature do you set the thermostat? How is the humidity level? The Bryant 214 is part of the legacy series. I would rather see you spend a little more money and get something from the Bryant Preferred series. Trane makes a very good heat pump and from everything I have read would have no hesitation to buying their equipment. Many warranty problems are due to bad installations which seems to be common in Florida. Trane may have refused to honor warranties where the equipment was improperly installed. Tigedunes knows heat pumps. So I recommend you consider any of his recommendations. Consider all options, but the decision may come down to your budget and the size of the closet. You also need to find a contractor who know how to install a heat pump properly. Some of the comments you have posted so far makes me suspicious.