Washer/Dryer Problem in Bathroom Remodel
karenaj
15 years ago
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fahrenheit_451
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Washer/Dryer Problem in Bathroom Remodel
Comments (7)Years ago 1-1/2" was the norm for a laundry standpipe, but in the late 70s to early 80Âs the appliance industry started installing higher volume pumps in the washing machines and it was soon learned that the 1-1/2" lines could not handle the volume and velocity of the discharge so the plumbing codes were amended requiring a laundry standpipe to be 2". The type of washing machine that you select has absolutely no bearing on the size of the line. Regardless of what laundry machine you choose, there is no guarantee that when that machine wears out that it would be replaced with a machine of equal size, therefore the standpipe must conform to the code standard for a laundry standpipe. Taking this discussion to the next level, living in a condo you are confronted with a number of problems that your real estate agent no doubt forgot to mention. In most jurisdictions a homeowner may perform "maintenance" on a single-family dwelling or a residential multifamily dwelling so the question then is, what is the definition of "maintenance"? Maintenance is the act of servicing or repairing all pipes, valves, fixtures and appurtenances related to the structure water distribution system or DWV system providing the systems are maintained in the original configuration and layout. Any additions, changes or alterations of the original system, no matter how slight, are defined as "New Work". A homeowner may pull a "self help permit" for "New Work" providing the structure is a Âsingle-family dwelling" solely occupied by the homeowner or members of his/her immediate family. (This can get real touchy; I once worked on a house where the homeowner was denied a self help permit because they had a foreign exchange student in residence in their home for a year.) In residential or commercial multi-family dwellings the homeowner (landlord) or his/her delegates (maintenance department) may perform "maintenance" but they May Not perform any "New work" on the structure. In those jurisdictions that have both Residential/Commercial Plumbers and Residential Plumbers a Residential Plumber may perform service for hire on a single -family residential structure or a residential multi-family structure, but not on a commercial multi-family structure. Generally a "Residential multi-family structure" is defined as any structure with two or more dwelling units but not to exceed 4 dwelling units or 3 stories in vertical height. All structures with 5 or more dwelling units or exceeding 3 stories in height are defined as a "Commercial Multi-family dwelling" and a certified residential/commercial or journeyman plumber must perform all maintenance or new work. In some jurisdictions all "condos" regardless of how large or small the structure are classified as "commercial multi-family dwellings" Your Plumbing Inspector has already notified you that he will not pass the installation unless you install a 2" line for the standpipe however what he did not tell you is that installing the 2" line will involve the tub drain line as well. All DWV (drain, waste & vent) lines) are sized by the code DFU (drainage fixture unit) method. Basically the code has tables listing every type of fixture that can be found in a structure and it assigns a minimum drain opening size and a DFU value. When your tub was initially installed a 1-1/2" line was rated for up to 3DFUÂs and as long as you make no changes to that line it may remain a 1-1/2" line however, if you make any changes whatsoever you would be required to bring it up to the code that is in force at the time of the new work. Under the UPC & the Calif. Code a tub is rated at 3DFUÂs but a1-1/2" line is now limited to 1DFU, therefore if you make any changes you would not only be required to install a 2" line for the standpipe, the tub drain line would also be increased to 2", which is rated for a maximum of 8DFUÂs. Now let us discuss the idea of not installing the washer at this time, then after you have your inspection coming back and installing it. Sadly this is commonly done, but if you elect to do so you should be aware of your liability. If you should happen to have an overflow, and if that overflow were to cause any property damage to the dwelling unit below you, you would be liable for all property damage. If you were to then turn that in to your homeowners insurance they reserve the right to come out and inspect the damages to determine the extent of liability. If they note that you have a washer/dryer hookup but the other dwelling units in your condo do not, that would raise a red flag and they will go looking closer. Do not discount insurance investigators because they are fully familiar with code and if they find your installation is non-code compliant they may elect to contact your local code enforcement office to determine when the installation was made and if it was done to code at the time of installation. If they determine that the installation was made without a permit, they may opt to deny your claim. Now to add insult to injury, once they contact the code enforcement office to verify a permit, the code enforcement office has authority to come make an inspection. When the code enforcement office determines that you made the installation without a permit, they will issue you a summons to appear in housing court, where you will be given a hefty fine and they may issue an order that you have not more than 180 days to have the entire dwelling unit brought up to current code....See MoreHistoric Rowhouse Bathroom Remodel
Comments (16)@cpartist thanks! Along the wall gives about the same amount of storage space I think (because the bathroom is only about 9 feet wide, so it seems like that makes more sense. The kitchen is about 12 feet wide. There is not enough space for an island and room to walk round it (just in case that was your next question!). The majority of the renovated rowhouses in my neighborhood, which are all very similar in layout, have the same sort of galley kitchen, but if you have suggestions, happy to hear them! I currently live in a nearly identical rowhouse and have placed my dining table at the front with the kitchen at the back (so you walk through the living room). I personally do not mind this, we spent the vast majority of our time in the kitchen and living room, so I like having the spaces next to each other. Plus, its walking like an extra 15 feet. However, for future use, I don't think there is anything built in to the house that would prevent someone else from putting their dining room in the middle of the house and the living room in the front (so you don't have to walk through it)....See MoreHow to best add a bathroom w/ washer & dryer between Garage and House?
Comments (10)Agree with Mark. First thank you for the work you do! Problems I see right off the bat: Your kitchen will be dark with no natural light. Additionally the layout is poor with the pantry breaking up counter space and your not having enough prep space. Most prepping is done next to the sink. Bare minimum for prepping is 30" and that's frankly inadequate. It looks like you only have 24" on either side of the sink. How will the hood over the stove vent? Actual usable living room space is NOT 15' x 15' because you need passage space between island and living room and ideally if you have seating at the island counter, you need 60" between the island and furniture in living room. Based on the drawing it appears you'd have about 42". Actual usable space for a sofa as shown would be closer to 10'-11' from the wall. (In reality, the dining room gives you the true space for the living room too.) Are you ok carrying food to the dining room every single night you eat? (Trust me, eating at a counter gets old after a while.) If you and a partner are on different wake schedules, think how having the master bath across the room from the master closet will impact your waking and sleeping schedules. Hanging clothes can't turn corners in closets. Lots of wasted space in the center of that closet. Bedroom 2 will be seen from the dining room anytime they need to use the facilities. So much for privacy. Bedroom 2 is too small for even a full sized bed at 9' 3". A full sized bed is 54" wide. So 9'3" is = 111". 111" - 54" = 57". You need 3' of walking space on either side of the bed. So the drawing they have is way off. And there's be absolutely no way to open the smaller closet door. I assume you won't use bedroom 3 as a bedroom because if you do, it means they'll have to walk through the dining room to get to the bathroom. Your entry from the garage is a narrow dark passage where you also have your laundry room and no, I see no way to create a decontamination room. I see very little storage. Where for example would you store you brooms, vacuum, etc?...See MoreREMODEL WD ROOM INTO BATHROOM
Comments (12)One from houzz: "Front-loading machines are enclosed in a custom-built shelf — an element that Fortier likes to use in her laundry room projects because it makes a room feel customized. The shelf also gives the family a surface for folding clean laundry and storing supplies." -------- it's ok, but the toilet is right there, and you can't do that and work at laundry ... ?...See Moreweedmeister
15 years agokarenaj
15 years agogordonr
15 years agokarenaj
15 years agofahrenheit_451
15 years agogordonr
15 years ago
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