You should put this post into the Laundry section. Personally, I wouldn't use those quick-connects. I've had them pop off unexpectedly under pressure. Also, Teflon shouldn't be required since these connections all have rubber washers (no pun intended) in them. The guys who delivered my LG used a web strap (a pair) to lift the washer into position. The web strap resembled a tow strap for a car.

Hi, All voltages checked out fine. on the thermal fuse, I removed one blue wire and then set my meter to continuity, touched both terminals and there was continuity (beeped)...there was some clicking but don't know if it's because I did not touch the prongs properly on the terminals. on the operating thermostat I removed one red wire, set my meter to continuity, touch the other red wired terminal and there was continuity (beeped) I did not remove the purple wires but when I check for continuity across both purple terminals, there was no continuity (no beeping) Since you did not mention the purple wires I suppose they are not to be tested this way. on the upper thermal fuse, I removed one red wire and then set my meter to continuity, touched both terminals and there was continuity (beeped) the high limit thermostat has two terminals (the bottom terminal touches an element terminal as well) on this component, I removed the upper wire (red) and checked for continuity with the other terminal (which is also connected to the element terminal) and there was continuity (beeped) on the element terminals which has three terminals (the one closest to the inside of the dryer does not have a wire) I removed the red wire (seen in photo) and check for continuity with the two other terminals and there was no continuity (no beeping). I tested the non-wired terminal with the top terminal (orange wire) and there was continuity (even with the orange wire removed. no continuity when testing the non-wired terminal with the red wired terminal (red wire on or off). Hope I did this correctly. Please advice?

Having grass under your lines is a plus because you will drop stuff from time to time. Even now in the depths of winter in the NE I have dried grass (over frozen earth) so the corner of a sheet that slips out of my finger doesn't get muddy. When I first set up my lines I didn't have thick turf and I made a few unprintable comments when fresh white laundry got mud on on it. My mother had her rotatry set up on a slate terrace with sand between the slates and stuff sometimes got sand on it. I have always thought a really cool thing to do would be to have a raised bed of lavendar bushes running just under a long run of parallel lines. Then you'd have the scent of lavendar on things when the bushes were in bloom and if they touched any of the veg. under neath the lines you'd still get a nice smell. Unfortunately where I am lavendar requires sun and wind sheltering to survive so I can't do it. Retractable long lines are a neat idea, esp. on a small property. And they might be an excellent first step into the world of clothes drying. If you find you like the routine of line drying, then you could add a smaller rotary umbrella to accomodate additional items. For large flat things long lines are the best as they produce the most wrinkle-free items and sheets and blankets tend to block fast drying on rotary umbrellas, at least on marginal drying days. I was planning to add some more long lines to my set-up this summer, but the Hills dryer I mentioned got me thinking about adding another rotary. Retractable lines (and rotary umbrellas that are taken down between wash days) would probably be best in city lot because then you'd have less problem with the lines getting grubby from air pollution. Since you have a small lot a retractable and/or removable set-up might be the best. I think I once saw a project in one of Martha's mags about a retractable set-up that also had a retractable long awning above it to provide shade for delicate stuff, but I think it would be great for days when the weather is a bit iffy. I will look at the breezedryer you suggested. It sounds intersting. PS, be sure to buy beefy spring wooden clothespins (Diamond is a good brand). There are some skinny ones out there that don't hold up. Molly~

Hi all, Just an update on this. My replacement controller and the dryer are running just fine with the addition of the fan. And I should mention I added ONE OTHER MOD which is even cheaper and easier to reduce the excess heat in the top of the cabinet. I put a 1 inch metal hole plug in the hole at the top of the duct on the back side of the dryer near the opening where the heated air enters the drying drum. It makes no sense to let heated air coming up the duct from the heating coils and heating manifold partially leak out into the cabinet instead of all go into the drum to dry the clothes. The cabinet runs cooler still, too. If anyone else pulls their Duet apart, please let me know if Whirlpool just forgot to put the plug in mine, or if this is a design flaw. I called Whirlpool to ASK ... and the company people that answer the phones apparently aren't allowed to talk to anyone that knows anything about the design of the firm's appliances. Whirlpool couldn't tell me if there was supposed to be a hole plug in the hole or not. They'd be glad to help me get an authorized repairman out though. Oh well... I guess that means my choice is to use my own common sense or pay $100 or so just to find out if Whirlpool forgot to put the hole plug in or not, huh? Of course, that's presuming the repairman would actually know whether there was supposed to be a hole plug there or not, which is a major presumption in my book based on my experience trying to get information out of Whirlpool. If it isn't on the 8-page booklet in the dryer cabinet, they don't have a clue.