What tracie wrote: center the sink within one section of a double window unit. I see this done all the time in magazines and I think it looks great. In fact, I prefer not to have sinks centered under double windows. That puts the divider between the windows smack in the middle of the sink so that when I'm standing at the sink, I'm staring at the divider, not out the window. You can also give the appearance that the sink is centered with faucet placement. If the faucet appears to be centered, the sink will appear to be centered. Kelly Morriseau, CKBD and blogger at KitchenSync, wrote about this tip at http://kitchensync.typepad.com/my_weblog/2008/07/a-kitchen-desig.html (sorry you'll have to copy and paste the link into your browser. I can't remember how to imbed a link and I don't have time to look it up right now). Look through FKB for inspiration. One place to start: elizpiz's gorgeous kitchen. She centered her sink under one section of double windows. Notice the faucet location. Here is a link that might be useful: Elizpiz's sink/window set-up

I would make it counter-height and wider than the sink. If it's a 36" wide sink, I would try for a 48" wide window, if you can. It's a personal thing, though; I think windows wider than the sink look better. Plus, I like big windows! Counter-height windows open up a space and give it an airier feeling. Another thing I recommend is a 6- or 7-inch bumpout with the window. It gives you more space behind the window to minimize splashing and to also have more room for faucet, etc., behind the sink. See the pictures of bumped out windows in the thread below - in particular, look at MamaDadaPaige's and ErikaNH's windows. Thread: counter height window pictures please . A couple of comments on your layout: I think your aisles are fine, but keep in mind that the true width of an aisle is determined by measuring counter edge-to-counter edge or appliance handle. In your layout, it appears you are measuring cabinet-to-cabinet. Standard base cabinet boxes (without doors or drawer fronts) are 24" deep, standard counters are around 1.5" deep. So, your aisles are probably at least 3" narrower than you think they are. With 48" aisles, that brings them down to no more than 45" - which should be fine unless there will be a lot of traffic in the aisles. In front of the refrigerator, for example, the actual aisle is probably closer to 42" if you have a counter-depth refrigerator; shallower if you have a standard-depth refrigerator. Don't center your prep sink on the island. You rob yourself of a nice expanse of workspace on one side by splitting it b/w the two. Is your seating overhang at least 15" of clear knee/leg space (after accounting for cabinets and doors on the cabinets "in front" of the seating overhang? Doors are approximately 1" thick. This is the minimum recommended depth for an overhang at counter-height. ...........E.g., an island with one set of cabinets will need to be at least 41.5": ...........1.5" front counter overhang + 24" deep cabinets + 1" door or finished end panel + 15" ...........seating overhang = 41.5" Unless you have very, very good ventilation in your pantry or no door, I would rethink putting a refrigerator (or freezer) in the pantry. Refrigerators (and freezers) give off a lot of heat and pantries should be dry and cool. You don't want to have a year-round heater running in your pantry causing food to spoil too quickly. . . '...I'm thinking of making the cabinet under the sink ... 2" lower than counter height as well...' If you make the sink cabinet 2" lower than the surrounding cabinets, then you need to make the adjacent cabinets the same height as well. From the NKBA Guidelines (Rule 11, Cleanup/Prep Sink Landing Area): "Note A: If all of the countertop at the sink is not the same height, then plan a 24” landing area on one side of the sink and 3” of countertop frontage on the other side, both at the same height as the sink." . .

So sorry to hear that your husband died. How heartbreaking! Is your need for symmetry the reason why you're placing the fridge dead center on the left wall? NKBA guidelines recommend against placing a tall appliance in the middle of a counter run. IMO, your fridge placement splits the kitchen awkwardly, especially since that left wall could be a fabulous stretch of counter for baking, prep, etc. Plus centering the fridge makes it a focal point, which is generally not desired for fridges. Would you consider moving the fridge to the bottom wall like this?Moving the fridge to the outer edge of the kitchen means that others can access it without crossing cleaning or cook zone. I moved the prep sink to the corner to make room for trash at the end of the peninsula, handy to prep and clean-up zones. You could also do a corner sink ala Circuspeanut's or Buehl's set-up. See their corner sinks in this thread Please show me your (corner) prep sink I'm suggesting to-the-counter cabs at both ends of the run on the left wall. That will provide symmetry as well as additional storage. You could make one or both into appliance garages.This is just one lay-out possibility if you're willing to move the fridge. This is what I'm suggesting for the towel cab between DW and fridge.

Like the cabinet door style. Not fond of having more than one appliance garage cabinet (or one matching pair depending upon location/symmetry achieved) actually sitting atop the countertop taking up countertop space. Your joy in the beauty of that hood while it's new may well fade as you're forced to really work at keeping it looking new.