dadoes, it is screwed, at the very least, into a silver bracket across the top. Maybe I am assuming something is screwed into the quartz? The bracket? Maybe it's my mistake. For sure it isn't affixed to either side of the cab. I saw that option on the sketch in the owners manual, and I asked the kiddos about that and they said you could install either at the top, or at the sides. But you generally didn't do both. Wrong? I never had a minute's trouble with the old Bosch. I think the install sub did a poor job on this one. That said, it's in tight now, perfectly centered, and washes great. We always run it at 1AM each night and there is never steam. I doubt the gasket was doing much in that respect.

Awesome! The fixya.com website has a clear set of steps for replacing (moldy) bellows on FL Kenmore / Whirlpool washers. And, the following much simpler directions were in one of the comments, by DGBG, also vetted: --------- DGBG: 8/31/2009 Ya'll are going through a lot of work. This is a 5 minute job tops. Try this. ***(Tip washer back 45 degrees or so which makes room by having drum drop back) *** 1. Open the door. 2. Locate the ring and spring that fits the front of the bellows to the front of the machine and remove it. 3. Push the old bellows inside the washer after removing the 2 ports(Left side) and top. 4. Locate hex nut (Usually 2-o-clock) and loosen the giant hose clamp that hold the back of the bellows to the machine. 5. Remove bellows and discard. 6. Put new on on reverse order 5...1 The guy at Sears repair depot gave me the (tip it back) pearl. WOW was it easy. ------- A number of folks did follow the simple steps and reported success, along with a 2nd tip to take off the bottom kick plate which covers the filter, "which you should clean out while you're in there." However, the easy instructions may unfortunately not apply to me :-(, since our washer is on one of those convenient 15" pedestals. I could pull out the washer and pedestal, and then tip the washer back, but the pedestal isn't designed for that weight to be all at the back, .... nor would I want the pedestal to start sliding forward while the washer's at an angle. Any ideas?? Perhaps to tip back the washer only just enough to drop the drum back, and support the washer on some blocks on the pedestal???

I hear this "my washer has mold" and "my washer stinks" complaint so many times on this forum it drives me crazy. Folks, the reason this happens is because you are using cold or lukewarm washes with too little or too much detergent and probably overdosing on the fabric softener. Tough love time. People... Use some common sense! How can you expect something that stays damp to not develop mold issues if all you ever use is cold or lukewarm water? If you put in too much fabric softener, that leaves a residue as well. There's nothing in your wash that's killing bacteria -- the easiest way to do this is to do some HOT washes and crank up your washer's heater. If you bought a washer without a heater, well I'm sorry, you should have thought that one through before making your purchase. Products like Tide Coldwater and those Cheer ads where the guy washes his clothes in a tub of ice cubes are EVIL. It is COUNTERINTUITIVE to do your laundry this way, and unless these products also sterilize your laundry and tub, how can you expect to not have problems if you never use a 140°-160° degree wash? Sorry for the rant, but it seems Americans are always looking for the quick, easy solution, and then complain when it doesn't work. I've had my Asko for 4 years -- 2 of those in Seattle, where it's always damp, and 2 here in Arizona where it's the opposite. Never have I had any mold or smell issues. I attribute this to regular use of 140° and 160° washes which kill anything that could possibly want to set up residence inside my washer.

Ok, further information on this job. The least expensive service call and part deal was $275. That is about 1/3 the price of the machine...for a piece of rubber! I found one online for $29 + shipping. At any rate. I explored the diagrams and had to remove the top panel to get at the fasteners for the control panel. I was able to take off top panel, bottom panel, control panel and door panel in that order. The boot is attached to the door panel by a spring loaded wire clamp. This was easily removed. The boot was still attached to the drum assy. and was held in place with a wire clamp with a screw to tighten/loosen. This is easily removed. The drum counter weight was in the way of the screw so I had to remove the counterweight (4) 1/2" nuts. I am waiting on the new boot, but by the look of things, it will be easy to replace. The part price and labor on this job if it were done by a professional is way out of whack for a piece or rubber and a 1 hour job. I looked all over for information on this job and could not find, so I thought I'd document here....after saving about $250.