I don't know how to explain the 44 VAC you have posted except that your multi-meter may be a bit "off". Briggs specs for the 9 amp regulated charging system is given as 40 VAC max at 3,600 RPM. Otherwise, the performance of the charging components is right where it should be and if you had run the engine longer the amp rate would have probably decreased even a bit more as the battery attained a more complete charge. The tests on the clutch (if done correctly) are the best proof of condition you can have. As I stated in a previous post, I do not know WHERE the snubber diode is situated (physically). I do know that most automotive circuits where a large coil of wire is employed in electromagnetic tasks.........a snubber diode is usually included to shunt the self-induced voltage spike that occurs when the power to the coil is turned off, harmlessly to ground. I also know that diodes fail in different ways when subjected to current values higher than their capacity, especially when they are faced with a really large surge of inverse voltage where the amp load is also of a high value. Sometimes a diode will simply become OPEN, and if it is a PTO snubber diode in the spotlight, the most obvious problem you would notice would be your tractor might begin eating PTO switches like popcorn. Or.......the diode might transform into a shorted (or semi-shorted) condition..........and this could lead to blowing fuses. BUT..................you seem to have stated that the fuse will continue to blow with the PTO clutch DISCONNECTED. That (to me) implies that any shorted snubber diode would have to be in the wiring on the CHASSIS side of the PTO clutch wiring (if in fact a shorted snubber diode is causing this. If the snubber diode is integral to the PTO clutch......unplugging the clutch wiring would isolate that and the fuse blowing should stop. You haven't done anything like replacing wires or splices on the tractor, have you?? Can you physically trace the path of the black wire referred to as connecting with a screw to the regulator mounting? Your budget must be highly organized if you know you will have to sacrifice "a date" in order to afford a buying new clutch. :^) HEY FORUM ADMINISTRATORS! Could we get some "smilies" added to the forum tools please?? This post was edited by mownie on Sat, Jun 15, 13 at 11:24

The picture gets fuzzier and fuzzier without any pictures to accompany the meandering tale. Let me direct you to a recent thread (click link at bottom of this post) in which the form and function of the Briggs V Twin ignition kill circuits is discussed at great length. This thread was opened and finished before you signed up as a member. You will not read it all. I just know that. Now to try and address the ***" 3 things I want to know."*** 1...***"first is the battery charging i.e. amp meter"*** RESPONSE... I don't know because you don't give any description of what that ammeter is doing. But from the rest of your posts I would have to suspect it might probably not be charging. If the charging system is working, and the ammeter is even wired up correctly............the indicator needle should move to the PLUS side of the gauge face for at least a few minutes AFTER you start the engine (engine must be near full governed RPM for charging). 2...***" second is the oil sensing light working indicating low oil"*** RESPONSE... NO, it is not an indicator of low oil. It is an indicator of LOW OIL PRESSURE. The only reasonable and reliable indicator of low oil is the manual oil level gauge, also known as the OIL DIPSTICK. (do not confuse it with other types of "dipsticks"). The only way to guard against engine failure (due to low oil level) is to check the oil level by following the instructions in the owner's manual. The oil level should be checked each and every time BEFORE THE ENGINE IS USED. This means prior to using it and between use cycles if you must stop and refill the fuel tank. In lieu of following the instructions in the OM to determine if the oil level is sufficient, there are 2 alternate methods (signs) for "guessing" that the oil level might be low. A. You notice a piston connecting rod protruding from a new hole in the engine block. B. Engine refuses to rotate even when a 6' breaker bar with socket wrench is used on the flywheel nut. 3...***" Lastly shutting down in an emergency grounding the coils to each other."*** RESPONSE... I don't understand your use of the term "emergency". Try to read through the thread found by clicking the link I provided and it might "click" for you about how the 2 coils are separated from each other, and how they are connected to a COMMON GROUND for routinely shutting down the engine. Now get to work on posting pictures on here. :^) Here is a link that might be useful: Curiouser and curiouser

AC - Alternating current (current oscillates from plus to minus, for example, in a circuit supplied by a transformer or an alternator without rectification) DC - Direct current (current flows one way, for example, in a battery powered circuit.) John_G is correct. The voltage rating on a fuse indicates its ability to clear a circuit in a safe and uneventful manner, and within a prescribed time specified by fuse standards under short circuit conditions. The maximum current availability of the supply circuit also affects clearing performance. Therefore, a fuse rated at 250Vac for use in a circuit up to 10,000 amp capability can be applied in an AC circuit up to and including 250Vac, and with short circuit current less than 10,000 amp. The VDC rating may be less. DC circuits are harder to clear than AC circuits because in AC circuits, the current goes through zero twice per voltage cycle. This zero crossing aids in opening the circuit. Never apply a fuse in a circuit where the supply voltage is more than the rating on the fuse. The VAC and VDC ratings are usually different. Watch that difference. A fuse may be marked with only the AC voltage; More information is required to discover its DC rating.

daven, has anyone else service your unit lately before this incident? If not, there should be a solution for this not to happen again. Ask your service tech what is the best solution for this not to happen again. Stabs on disconnects can get worn from age and being pulled out a lot. If the stab is hard to pull out, then it probably wasn't pushed in all the way. Any appliance that has a loose connection to electrically can cause a breaker to trip or a fuse to blow which ends up in no voltage which may be why the outdooor unit was not working