Tried everything on my towels... :( They are still stiff
sharon620
13 years ago
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caryscott
13 years agolivebetter
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Please Help Me!!! Grass Help Tried Everything!!
Comments (1)I think you're killing your lawn with kindness. I assume you have a fescue or Kentucky bluegrass lawn (or mix). It sounds like you are watering far too often. Once you get temperatures into the 90s every day, then you should be watering once per week. With temps in the 80s you should be watering once every 2 weeks. Why? Couple of reasons. One is that crabgrass seed must have continual soil moisture for several days to germinate. Without that, it cannot germinate. If you water once, deeply, the surface of the soil will become dry long before the root zone dries out. Just doing that prevents crabgrass. PREVENTS! You don't need a preemergent if you just do that. However, sometimes Mother Nature steps in to ensure there is continual moisture. That is when you might need a preemerge. The second reason is that if you water every day, the soil dries out down below and the roots only grow at the very surface. If you miss a day of watering, the soil surface can dry out and kill the grass. But if you water deeply, the grass roots will penetrate as deep as they need to to find that moisture. Growing deep roots takes time if all you have is short roots, so don't try to go cold turkey with your watering plan. You should wean the grass off of the "day and night" watering until you are watering a full inch, once per week in the summer heat. Doing that will stop most new weeds. It will not kill out the current crop of crabgrass. There are some herbicides that apparently work. I'm an organic kind of guy and have not had appreciable weed problem in a long time, so I don't keep up with herbicides. Someone else will come along and help with that. What I would do is suffer along through the summer. Then in early September (in your area) I would kill off the crabgrass, rake it up, reseed, and try to establish as dense a turf as you can before next spring. Crabgrass is an annual plant so it has to come back from seed. If you are watering correctly next year, then you can have all the seed you want but it won't sprout on the dry soil surface. Crabgrass is lighter color than most turf grasses. That might be what you see. Otherwise, have you fertilized? Usually that evens things out. If you want an absolutely hassle free fertilizer, use organic anything. My favorite is alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow). Get it at your feed store in a 50-pound bag for about $15. Apply at 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Since it comes in a plain bag, there are no directions to read and hassle with. Just apply at 20 per 1,000 and let Nature take Her course. In 3 weeks the grass will become much greener, more dense, and will be growing slightly faster. Here is a demonstration picture taken by mrmumbles a couple years ago. Organic is also no hassle because you cannot over apply it. If you double the dose, it just lasts longer. If you apply as much as 80 pounds per 1,000 all at one time, you do run the risk of smothering the grass - not to mention severely denting your lawn care budget....See MoreTried everything (?) to start my LB Scamp
Comments (11)I would say that is the correct one from the dealer. My numbers match yours. I never said that a sheared flywheel key would prevent spark, just throw it off like Jim had to say in bold print. If the coil is in place and gapped properlly then we need to look at the switch because I have no knowledge of any other reason why other than a faulty coil even though it is new. Chuck that is an older style switch which is a pushbutton type right? If you have a continuity tester you need to see if the switch is defective then. If you do not then you should remove it and take it to a auto parts dealer and ask if they will test it for you or a friend who might have one. Make sure that the adjustments are correct for the switch, meaning it should allow the switch to open for the spark and disengage the brake pad that rubs the flywheel. Chuck, look around in this link and see if you can find info on the repair. Neal Here is a link that might be useful: lawnboy repair manuals...See MoreStiff towels, I now know why!
Comments (94)mc58: You sound like me. My husband was ready to take the Miele washer and dryer and put them on the street with manure in them with a sign saying that is all they were good for. My (VERY abbreviated history so you can see that there are other crazies such as yourself): Came to this website after old-fashioned TL washing machine was diagnosed dead and became convinced that Miele was the answer to my prayers for a long-lasting, great washing machine for hard water. Bought the just-out Miele W1213 -- and will suggest I was lead astray by Miele rep in Miele store about the "extra" rinses because I knew we had hard water and was enamored with idea of programming four extra rinses. Had installed by authorized rep. First washed everything without any soap but there was no residue in clothing. (I'd been using vinegar rinses and borax concoctions because of hard water.) Then used Persil at prescribed amounts re: Miele. Hubby & I were in doctor's office with dermatitis within 3 weeks. And so it began. Eventually reduced Persil Sensitive to 1t for small load, 2t for medium, and 3t for large load in order to clean (Hubby in construction), but requiring many additional run-throughs (THERE IS NO SEPARATE RINSE CYCLE ON THE MIELE W1213!!!!!!!!!!) without detergent but with vinegar to get the soap to acceptable levels. I did absolutely everything everyone at Miele suggested and everyone here suggested. Just to mention a few: Had the water tested four times, by two different labs (This is how crazy I was: I tracked down the water quality guy for the state of Massachusetts at home and got him to recommend THE laboratory to use for testing because people suggested my first lab might not have done things correctly.). I tested for everything under the sun because every time I'd get the results people would then suggest that it had to be X that was the issue, X being something that hadn't been tested. $1,500 later, there is absolutely nothing unusual about our water except 12 grains of hardness. I purchased Miele washer cleaner (two boxes) and "cleaned" my washer twice because Miele was claiming my current problem was caused by my following their Persil instructions originally. I bought two hundred dollars of new towels to do the no-hidden-imbedded-stealth detergent test. I did all the Miele correct-installation tests (height of hoses, et cetera). I did the rinse water into the bucket test. Had the well water pressure calibrated. I had Hubby move the rocking chair into the laundry room (I am disabled.) and recorded exactly what the machine did -- for those who offered the programming/chip error/lemon theories. We had the rep out to test this, try that, reprogram water levels. I went through soaps, detergents (including Charlie's), and home-made recipes. I spent one-and-one-half years devoted to figuring out what I was doing wrong because everyone assured me their Miele was to die for, and I believed them. I was the first on my block/town/city/county/state/country/hemisphere to buy the Miele W1213 so I had to wait until fellow W1213 owners started to show up on this site. When two did, I contacted them privately and asked them to run a test: Wash a load of clothes on the normal cycle then, without adding anything, run the cycle through on warm/delicate (cycle with greatest amount of water so soap is visible) and check for soap after ten minutes of agitation in wash cycle. Both were surprised to see soap suds! And both had been happy with their machines. It was so good to get corroboration. I was not the only one -- though it had sure seemed like it 'til then. Still crazy, I started to research Miele abroad, on an English and Australian website. I bought a short subscription to Which?, the British equivalent to Consumer Reports. They do a better, more thorough job of testing washing machines, they do a rinse test on their machines, and test many Mieles. (I've written, e-mailed, posted and telephoned CR with requests to add rinsing to their test program, but gave up two years ago when it was clear they wouldn't listen. But I'm gonna bet that as more "water-efficient" machines become an issue they will smarten up.) What I found was that though most Miele machines were near the top of the ratings (though not the highest rated), some Miele machines did not fare well in the testing; they were found to rinse poorly or treat clothes roughly. That was very helpful to break my mindset that Mieles walked on water. BUT what helped the most was seeing that water usage varied quite a bit by machine AND the European Miele machines used more water than mine AND the machine designed for people with chemical sensitivities used much more water. Ah. The Miele Australian site listed the amount of water in their machine and it was more than here. The light dawned. I think I was unfortunate in that I bought one of the first super-water-"efficient" machines and we have hard water. Getting soap out of our clothes had always been a challenge with the TL, but one I'd handled with additives to soften the water. The greatly reduced water usage in my new machine has made it much more difficult to both clean clothes and rinse them. Here's a quote from Tide (which I don't use cause I understand it is difficult to rinse out): "Since HE washers use less water to clean, the water is dirtier. 2X Ultra Tide HE has special dirt capturing ingredients to help suspend dirt and dyes in the water, which helps keep them from redepositing on your clean laundry." I'm gonna guess that the laundry detergent manufacturers will need to catch up to the new technology, and it won't be easy. In the meantime, these machines are making some of us crazy. I can only offer that the ingredient that has helped my rinsing the most is baking soda -- but I don't have a water softening system. It is cruel but I think you'll find only experimentation will get you to a place where things are acceptable. I know that I live with laundry that isn't as clean as I'd like it because I have to curtail how much detergent I use, isn't as soft as I'd like it because there is a residue problem, not as easy and inexpensive as I'd like it because I have to add stuff to off-set conditions, not as fast or energy-efficient as I'd like it because I have to run every load through twice -- once with detergent and once without, but at least it's down to twice (three times if its something like my husband's jeans which require more soap). We just had a service call. The service tech saw the number of hours on the machine and said, "You've had this machine about nine years, right?" We bought it in October of '04. So much for energy efficiency (mine and the electric company's -- thank goodness we're on well water). I'll be shopping for a washer and dryer for our retirement home. Will I buy another Miele? Probably -- as long as I can get one with a separate rinse cycle. They are an extremely well-made machine. I love their customer service. I think the problem is inherent in any machine that is trying to clean with reduced amounts of water. I wish, for those of us on well water, that we could choose our water levels, because for us it is far more important that we use non-toxic cleaning agents that won't pollute rather than conserve water usage, as it goes right back into the ground on our land. My recommendation, breath deeply, consider it an on-going experiment and know you are not alone. My heart goes out to you....See MoreFront loader = stiff towels?
Comments (35)The general advice from linen resellers for washing Egyptian Cotton towels is to wash on WARM (100F-105F) with a reduced amount of gentle or mild detergent. Shake the towels before drying, then dry on LOW HEAT setting. The consensus among resellers online is to not use fabric softener, however I add about a half dose to take the edge off. I believe one of the issues may be that your towel fibers have shrunken due to the hot water washing, which has changed the feel of the towel. I recently purchased a set of Matouk Milagro bath towels ($35 each OMG) which are purportedly one of the softest, fluffiest towels available. I've been diligently following the care instructions, washing in warm and spinning on slow or medium to prevent the fibers from being damaged. After drying on low heat, these towels practically float out of the dryer! In the end, it's a combination of laundering practice and the quality of the fabric involved. The higher the quality of cotton used in the towel, the more forgiving the towel will be to shortcomings in your laundering procedures....See Moremieleforme
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