Sorry about your trouble. It would be helpful if you give some more info such as location (basement, second floor, etc.), type of structural flooring (concrete slab, 2x12 12OC, etc.), subflooring (3/4 ply, boards), house construction (new, old 1900s, etc), finished flooring (tile, hwd, etc.) Also, who installed appliances? were they properly leveled? Also, were the transportation blocks removed??? (this info should be in the manual) At what speeds it vibrates worse? Does it vibrate without any clothing inside, then with a couple of items - large and small (for balancing)? There is a ton of info on this forum and a lot of helpful and knowledgeable people. Help them to help you. Good luck.

more than a good deal : true 208/240 Volt machine (tap cold, 85, 105, 120, 140, 170, 203°F), automatic soak in whatever cycle and costs over 1000 dollars less than its 120 V substitute W3035 internet price

Gordonr I am not comparing the W4840 with the 1215. I am comparing the 1215 6K 220V with the 3XXX 5.5k 110V. I posted a question in the Wiring Forum about the difference between 120V and 220V and why NA uses 120V and the rest of the world does not. A lot of technical discussion over there but here is the easiest answer to one of my questions: "Is 220V really more efficient than 120V?" "Yes. Given a certain amount of energy needed in watts, the higher the voltage, the lower the percentage voltage drop and the less the energy loss over the same size wire. That's why the power company can supply a whole neighborhood with two relatively small wires at 7200 volts (or more). The high voltage is potentially more dangerous, though, so it is transformed to a lower voltage for consumer use. It's amperage that determines the wire sizes needed and a 120V system has to transmit almost twice the current (amperage) as a 220v system delivering the same amount of energy (watts). Because ampacity-to-wiresize is basically a square function, the wire has to be roughly four times as large. Otherwise, severe voltage drop will occur over any appreciable distance and more energy will be lost to heat generation due to resistance."

After 40+ years of infallible service with never a repair from my loyal classic Maytag, I am shopping for a new washer & dryer. I am considering Miele compact Classic W1 and T1 (for its regular 120 electric outlet plug) because all regular sizes have become too large for my small laundry area. Yes, it is an investment to pay $400 more (plus taxes) for each Miele, but I was justifying the solid German quality. But now reading about Miele bearings failing in such a short time (5-7 years) makes me wonder if any brand can assure us of its reliability. I never heard of washer bearings with my classic workhorse Maytag; are these bearings a technology of modern times that has proven problematic for all brands? Of course, the company would encourage you to buy their extended warranty for $320 (after you overpaid $400 for each Classic Miele. I understand the frustrated Miele customers who opt to just buy cheaper brands that they would not be upset replacing every 7 years.