So how do your posts assist the average reader in avoiding those shops, and finding the ones that are proactive in training, and reinvesting in their techs? How do your posts assist the average reader in understanding that the $100 code puller is not a substitute for, nor in any way representative of the investment that the best shops and techs have to make in order to keep up with the technology that is designed into their cars? Of one point I am sure, no-one can accurately describe what it takes to be a good shop today, unless they are actively trying to be the best that they can be, and have the first hand perspective that doing so creates. The answer to solving the most technical issues faced by vehicle owners today is in fact to find top independents who make being the best technician that he or she can be a lifetime commitment that cannot be measured by who writes a techs paycheck. People with that much drive won't work at a dealership because the focus inside the dealerships service department is totally about profit, and not about understanding and repairing the car. Occasionally an individual will show up in the dealer network that shines above the circus atmosphere inside it. But they rarely last there anymore. The dealerships focus is selling cars, not fixing them. You will see things like "Flush brake fluid, power steering fluid, coolant systems, injection cleaning, intake cleaning, engine flushes, etc. and they are all performed by the least experienced technicians all in the scheme to "flush the wallets" of the customer. Shops, and yes, shops like mine are the alternative to all of the nonsense. We don't live by shoving unneeded filters and flushing this and that. We just fix the cars, straight in at the symptom reported, and straight back out. I'm not alone in my approach, there are quite a number of shops just like mine. But how does the average customer realize the difference if all they see are the twisted perceptions that I attempt to correct even here in this forum? Note to everyone. If you walk into a business and see a menu card with lists of what they flush and the associated prices, you are not in a top shop! If you walk into a shop and the only scan tool they have is a single aftermarket tool at any level, Your not in a top shop. If you ask price first, and they can quickly throw an answer to you, without looking at the car first, your not in a top shop. If you ask them to show you what continuing education classes the tech that is about to work on your car has attended in the last year, two years, five years and the answer is less than six a year, then again your not in a top shop. If the shop supports R2R, in the mistaken belief it will solve the problems caused by a habit of not investing in the business, which means it's tools, equipment and most of all it's people. Well, then your definitely not in a top shop. If none of that genuinely matters to you, until the day finally comes when all of the chips are down and the regular place hasn't made the investment to keep up with the technology, some will say you can always go back to the dealership, which of course could be miles, and miles away since they are closing in record numbers or you can try and then seek out a top shop. Maybe you'll even be lucky and find one and if you do, you need to reward their investment with all of your business or else don't expect to have them available for the next time. JMHO

I don't find a model SDGG2606AWW, but I do find SDG2606AWW. Gas dryers are outside my experience, but a non-heat situation when the unit still otherwise runs probably is related to the gas burner. Could be a bad igniter, flame sensor, or gas valve. There are two different burner assemblies for this model, depending on whether the unit in question is Series 16 or not. Parts are available for both types. Dryers are much more mechanically simple than washers, although gas models are a little more complex than electric. I would have it repaired.

Yes, the screen cloth will cut through both paint and the patch. Don't press too hard with the screen cloth and pad though. Keep the pad flat on the wall and sand the hump down a little at a time, lightening pressure as you cross from patch to drywall ... coarse screen cloth can be aggressive in what it removes and you could end up with frayed drywall paper at the edge of the patch, making the whole thing look even worse. Once you have the patch sanded, you'll probably need to paint the entire wall; otherwise the smoothly sanded patch will show up like a neon sign next to the roller-pebbled painted surface. I'd suggest using a small 3" roller and interior latex primer to seal and prep the patch for standard latex paint. Then paint the entire wall with a standard 9" roller to even out the surface texture.

How old are the units again? I realize that you do not want to replace all of them, but more often than not, the condition of one is indicative of the condition (or impending condition) of the rest. In this case, it is not like this unit was behind a tree, bush, or subjected to any more weather or moisture than was likely experienced by the other units. Might be time for a careful inspection of the remaining units and look at the project, unfortunately, in more totality. This is not the rule, just an observation. Hopefully the other units are just fine at the end of the day.