Follow-up: 1. The compressor cycled to 120 psi at least 4 times in the open "cold" garage w/o a smell. 2. I could hold or touch the cyls and head through all cycles, less at the head and no at transfer tube. 3. The transfer tube moving air from head to manifold to tank was hot quick with a fitting leaking slow moisture. The potential smell due to moisture w oil vapor on hot manifold/pipe. Naturally I cleaned the signs of moisture/oil at manifold and dust/grime on top of cyls head. Tightening the compression fitting will be another day since a snugging w/n work and the seep is so small. 4. The original 1972 serpentine belt is bouncing/deteriorating and needs changing soon. 5. The moisture reservoir needs a larger valve/hose due to restricting oil in 1/2 cup of moisture. Too many tools to maintain keeps you working and behind at times!!!

i always look for lower budget equivalents. A smaller manufacturer might have a fantastic equivalent but you wouldn't know it since they haven't allocated funds to getting buzz and attention. That would double the retail cost. Of course one might wonder how well they can service later too... so if you have the money, get a Miele or a SubZer. Most of the foreign manufacturers have fridges that will interest you if you are looking for alternatives as I have been. I now own two small fridges: a 24" LG fridge (that is not on their web site), and an Ariston undercounter drawers fridge (fridge-only, no freezer, so the cooling circuit's only job is to keep things fridgey). Both quiet and cool. Along the way, I found 2-compressor fridges from Blomberg (a German & Turkish manufacturer), Vestfrost (Danish) and Liebherr, as well as single-compressor systems with complete separation between the fridgy and freezy air and cooling circuits in several Korean Japanese and European manufacturers. This complete separation idea is good, for all purposes, except one: when you want it to be as powerful as a restaurant fridge that takes a lot of "demands" or abuse : hundreds of door openings, a huge amount of warm / hot stuff shoved in at closing time and the fridge and freezer better have a power boost then and there or else you run health risks because the ambient temperature might really rise for few hours (uh-oh!). The small two-compressor Vestfrost was powerful and not high cost. It's available under other names too. Summit CP171, ConServ, etc. Since Home Depot could order it for you, other retailers avoided it. Then it didn't sell and got dropped. Summit still has it. Blomberg LG and Samsung may be good to check out. You seem to be interested in one large fridge, not two small ones. At applianceadvisor.com wthin a few clicks you can find out which manufacturer makes the other company's fridge, and you'll eventually figure out that there are only a very small number of box shapes and coolant systems that one can add to the box. On the Miele web site I found great displays of the guts of all their fridges -- which are the same as several competitors' fridges, since Miele is a rebrander when it comes to fridges. Having said this, I find Miele adds great value because they work smart and figure out how to improve the little things that are theirs alone, like the door bins, closed drawers, etc. hth

WRONG.The defrost cycle doesn't start. When the defrost timer goes bad the coil in the fridge which is in the freezer compartment freezes over because the timer is bad and will not let the coil defrost. The coil is now plugged solid with ice stopping the air flow to the bottom of the fridge warming it up. when you unplugged the fridge and then it worked fine is the RED flag. The coil defrosted letting the air move to the bottom of the fridge and now the fridge is fine, right. It will warm up in a few days. The defrost timer is bad. i don't have time to fix this over the internet. Have your electrition fix it. Defrost timers don't go bad if you turn the fridge off. If that was the case every new fridge in every appliance store would have a bad timer because none of them are turned on or plugged in, well not all but you know what i mean. No offence Bob but do you have any idea of how a domestic fridge works ? Maybe this person has an old fridge with hot gas defrost which has a " bread loaf " compressor. They don't say. how would you fix that ? Hint. Cold air is heavy and falls naturally to the bottom of the fridge. That is why the freezer is on the top of that particular type of fridge. If it can't fall the bottom warms up right ? That means something is blocking the fall right ? Ice, maybe ? As in no defrost, maybe ? As in a bad timer, Maybe ? Again no offence but just my thoughts. kalinin refrigeration

dave first of all,I would ditch the oil furnace and go all high eff heat pump with matching var speed air handler. here are my personal specs for a new system. 15 SEER,12+ EER, 9 HSPF matching var speed air handler full BTUs in both cooling and heating for your rated size R-410a refrigerant scroll compressor preferred electronic defrost preferred staged backup heat strips thermostat that controls blower speed Don't fool yourself-you will not get that toasty feeling from HP heat vs oil heat. But you won't freeze either and you should smile at your savings. Yes, the Infinity 16 HP is a recip compressor with a 50-100 split on low/high stage. It is a successful system and you would achieve very little improvement in efficiency with the Infinity 19 HP. I personally think two stg systems may be overated and not necessarily worth the cost difference. The Performance 15 HP with matching var speed Infinity air handler/controller is a great system. Of course sizing is important of the equipment as well as the condition/sizing/insulation properties of your ductwork system which is normally overlooked. If you have any hot/cold spots in your home, now is the time to address these issues. Another good sgl stg system would be Trane's XL15i or AmStd Heritage 15. But if you absolutely want two stg, then it's Carrier Infinity 16 or sister mdl Bryant Evolution 16 HP-no question. I am attaching a fuel comparison calculator. IMO Here is a link that might be useful: Fuel Comparison Calculator