Thanks for the replies everyone. I had some last minute travel for work, so haven't had much time to read what you all have to say, but catching up on it now. 1. Of course Iw ill get multiple quotes, I wouldn't spend 1K without getting multiple quotes let alone 10-20K. 2. Not interested in a heat pump. Electric rates are high here. House is fairly efficient, and I have a nice wood stove insert and 5 cords of wood read to go. Keeping warm is not my problem. 3. Correct, no natural gas available here. If it was, I would probably switch over. 4. Thanks for the information that 10-6" ducts will not supply enough air flow for a 4 ton system. Thats the sort of info I am looking for! 5. Started reading about mini-splits for use in the entire house, I think thats what you mean barrongreenteam...? Are they variable speed? Because I dont seem to see one under 9K BTUs, which is too big for the bedrooms?

I have a luxaire which is same as york. I have the 14.5 seer heatpump (the upgraded model not the lower model). It has a decibal of 69 cooling and 71 heating. It has a compressor jacket. It works great. No problems. Don't be scared of the name. The installer is what really matters. They need to do it right. Ask if they can get luxaire cheaper. Its the same equipment. Price may be a little high. It does include air handler so it won't be super cheap. And your getting some sheet metal done too. Thats not free. Spend more and get a heat pump since your in seattle.

tiger, thanks for the reply. I've read a lot of your posts on this forum and I appreciate your sharing your time and expertise. After getting my quote, I researched the model number on the web and read a post by a Rheem/Ruud installer who said "the only difference is the R or U in the model number and the nameplate" (link to thread provided below). The more I search around the web, the more I've found references like "(R or U) GRL" or "*GRL." So, I am *assuming* that UGRL = RGRL and UANL = RANL. How much do you think the VS would add to the cost of the system and how much could it save in operating cost? I live a couple hours north of Detroit MI, so my goal was to get a very good furnace and a somewhat basic AC since the furnace will probably be used for at least half the year, while the AC will (hopefully) only be used A couple more questions... I've had several people recommend to me to get a humidifier added on to the furnace because supposedly it will help cut down on heating costs. Does it really cut down on costs, or is it purely for comfort (and either way, is it worth it?) Also, I got the model number for the thermostat... White-Rogers 1F85-0477. Any opinions on that? Would I be better off buying a Honeywell myself and asking them to install it? Thank you. Here is a link that might be useful: Reference to thread

There's too much information that has to be known to be able to give a reasonable estimate without a site survey. The area of the country also plays a big part on what you can expect to be a competitive cost for repairs/installations. Are you in a high rise condo where the A/C company may have to rent or hire a rig to hoist the equipment? In my area, markup is 300 percent of actual cost (cost of equipment, cost of labor, cost of sales)even though I personally have never charged that much, it helps determine if our prices are competitive and integrity is maintained. Too low a price can trigger a negative (and usually justifiable) perception of a company too. Depending on how busy the shop is, availability of other companies within the area (supply and demand) and whether the company even wants to do the job makes a difference on the cost of a job. Many times, if a company wants to specialize in commercial work, they will estimate a very high cost on residential work hoping you will try elsewhere and if you don't, it makes it worth their while to do the work. Also, what types of guarantee, value added incentives does the company offer? Nothing is free so "throw in's" are still included in the overall cost. Some companies don't even want to service units they did not clean install and will charge high prices for service and replacement. I'll attempt to give you some idea of cost, at the risk of TIGER shaking his head in disgust, and I do highly respect his opinions and AGREE with his opinion here (even though he is in Texas and I'm in Maryland). You should try to get 3 people to come out, survey the situation and and give a solid estimate. I know with this current heat wave, folks don't want to wait and just go with what ever is presented to them and get the "oh no's" later, just to alleviate the suffering. Your pocket book and risk management will determine which way you might go. For example, the prices may be high in your area and full replacement now, might justify the costs (and rising costs)of future repair work. Getting at least 3 estimates with site surveys can help you make the best decision. For example, if your condo is ground level and the unit was properly sized, and it doesn't require the tech to try to do jumping jacks in a phone booth, I could give you 3 estimates. Fix the hole, check for leaks, replace the filter dryer, vacuum and recharge the system for around $600.00. Just patching isn't all that would have to be done. The tech would have to assure the unit is at it's optimum before he left so coil cleaning, airflow adjustments, etc would need to be done to assure a satisfied customer. I'd guarantee my patch for a year but caution you another leak could appear elsewhere, something else could go wrong and due to the age of your unit, there would be no cost or part coverage from the manufacturer or supplier. I could plop a matched/exact condensing unit in for about $1,500.00-$2000.00. Again, the guarantee would be that which is provided by the manufacturer, cautioning you that any failures on the part of anything existing on the current unit that remain, that causes damage to the new condensing unit because of failue, will not be covered and could void guarantees and warranties on the new unit. Then there is complete replacement. Assuming all the manual conditions match what you have and, the manufacturer, model, seer that is being installed (in other words, mostly plug and play), that sized unit could cost approximately 5-8 thousand. Other companies in the area would charge much more, others would beat my estimate by a few dollars hoping to get the job. Obviously reputation and reliability in the area plays a big part. I have been known to hire a competitor to do certain jobs just to maintain my reliability reputation. That competitor luckily is one I trained and helped get into business so, that does help. More info than you might have wanted but even a little knowledge will help you feel better about whatever decision you make. Good luck!!!