Thanks, Alex; I found nothing that gives a torque rating for that bellows retainer clamp but I'm not surprised - it's just a cheepo clamp. 3 different repair guys have been out to re-install it and all 3 times it's come off again and they all focused on tightening it securly, knowing this a recurring problem. I re-installed it myself the last time - I just can't do without a washer again for a full week. So for, for a normal wash cycle it's holding. If you're a service guy, you might be curious about this so I'll give the rest of the story and report back on any findings. 3 things: 1. A guy came out to replace the bellows after a tear, 3 months ago. The new bellows was a firmer rubber because the door now needs to be held shut with my knee before the door lock engages. Maybe the rubber has something to do with the clamp not holding. 2. I think this only happens when I use the "Heavy Duty" cycle, which uses hot water for the wash. Maybe the high water temp expands the clamp enough to give. I have done one load on Whitest Whites and it held. When it does fail, during the Heavy Duty cycle, it has failed within 10 minutes and another time it was after an hour. I don't think I ever used any cycle but normal until after the new bellows was installed. 3. The last guy ordered a new clamp and had it sent to my house, just to have around. He thought the old clamp might be faulty after so much tightening, but it looked fine and he got it secured, (at least till this last failure). He ordered another just in case that was the problem. Last night when I fixed it, I used the new clamp, but the old looked fine to me. Next service is for May 1 so the night before I'll do a load on Heavy Duty and see what happens. Sorry for rambling on, but again, thought you might be curious, since you're in the biz. Bill Thanks, Bill

I purchased the same machine and 3 days after the 90 day return policy expired we started having problems with error codes and the spin cycle. Dealing with Sears service has been a nightmare, to say the least. There are a number of consumer complaints on this particular model including the sears.com website under customer reviews. Consumerreports.com also has customer reviews posted on this particular model. Ironically, CR gives it a good rating. The problems people are commonly having are with the spin cycle, error messages (the computer), and the drum cracking. Sears has refused to acknowledge that this is a defective product. I found two posted complaints were a sears extended warranty was purchased as a result of the problems with this machine, and both ended up with a cracked washer drum, which was not covered under the extended warranty. Sears pays their service techs a commission for every extended warranty they sale to a customer. I would guess they also pay lousy wages. After being a loyal Sears customer for more than 20 years, I will no longer give them my business. Letters to their corporate office have been unanswered and their consumer relations center in Texas isn't about keeping customers, but wearing them down so they just go away. After what I know now, I would definitely return the machine and do my homework before purchasing another front loader. There is a lot to know. Good Luck

SUCCESS!! A half hour ago I was sitting down to report failure. For the record I'll report what I did. But the punch line is: google the real problem. I was not actually having F11 or F14 codes, I was having Sud and F02 codes and it does make a difference. There's a good thread about Sud/F02 codes here. And the moral is: While writing this I just had to jump up and check on my machine because it was spinning so audibly fast. It hasn't done that in a *loooong* time. Let me tell you why: The Sud/F02 code is apparently due to a blocked outlet. On retrospect, everything points to this simple answer. I didn't add things together before hand. It's been a long time since I've heard water leaving the drum. And it hasn't spun hard in ages either. The symptoms were longer and longer for the machine to finish its cycle until finally it just failed and started throwing codes eventually. And recently water is left in the drum a little bit too (when someone else used it; I manipulated things so that didn't happen). So all this adds up to: plugged drain. The drain is located behind the bottom panel, removed with three hex screws (see link above). There's a 3" plastic plug to remove and in mine was: ripped plastic hose, broken pen parts, many, many of them (I'm going to kill my teenager), and disposable dental floss picks (I'm going to kill dh), and eraser caps (I'm going to kill my tweenager), and a really, really thick plug of grease and hair and compressed lint and other gook that was just its own unique substance. Oh my. As suggested in the link above, do have many, many towels ready to sop up much, much water that will come out. Also in my water is about 2 TB at least of heavy white grains -- maybe that's just sand -- dh is a marine biologist and teen is a jr lifeguard, spending much time on the beach. Would sand that sits in water soften? I guess not -- don't know what that stuff is. It's kind of hydrated. Practically like oats. Ycccck. And so .... the machine seems fixed. And I'm thinking now that hydrated "sand" is maybe the backing to decaying plastic-backed rugs. What did I do prior to finding the fix? I took the circuit board out again as described by so many above with such luck. I didn't note very much before and want to set it down here for the record. I encountered many, many broken plastic clips, some sitting on the wires, some in the circuit board itself. The whole white plastic housing rattled on its clips even though those three large ones weren't visibly broken. When I replaced it I fixed that back on with duck tape too. Pry the three large white tabs holding the white housing box for the circuit board up with a thin screwdriver, a little bit on one side, then the other, back to the first side. Two people might help but would need to be very light-fingered. There are plastic clips holding the circuit board to the white box. Most of mine are broken (the machine is 10 years old now). Two thin screwdrivers are needed to pry the tabback and then with the other screwdriver, gently press the board up. This must happen back and forth at a couple spots (without touching any solders obviously). The backs of all my solders looked perfect. Two of the tops of my solders looked a little dark in color. Neither of the switches looked corroded. I resoldered all the contact strips. Some looked fine but when I went to remelt the solder, I discovered there just wasn't any there at all, so I added a touch more. I sprayed all the contact strips with electronic cleaner before soldering ; don't know if that was a mistake. Almost all the clips that hold the wiring housings in place are snapped off just from time and the vibration of the machine itself. It's possible a new board housing is in order. I think that's all I wanted to remember for next time. I had some vaseline ready but decided it wasn't necessary. Given how tough it was to slip on the cracky plastic wire housings, I'm thinking that might help the clips go on more smoothly on old machines. OTOH with no exterior plastic clips left to hold the wire harnesses in place, making that too smooth a contact might allow it to wriggle free easier. After I fit it all back in place I was relieved that the machine turned on just fine, only with the same characteristic noisy sound and non-rotation of the drum - another symptom that I forgot to mention (signifying, as it turns out, that plugged drain). Immediately after starting up again the Sud code got thrown again so that's when (duh) I started to google the other codes. This thread is a wonderful repository! In sum: Sud/F02 == plugged drain, remove bottom panel and clean trap F11/F14/door lock == bad circuit contacts, resolder, clean contacts, etc. Here is a link that might be useful: Sud/F02 code fix

Should anyone wind up searching and needing this thread in the future, you'll find it cross-posted, and solved, over here: http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/3599738/kenmore-he4t-drainage-issues?n=3