Unfortunately, his is a common problem. A lot of homes in extreme locations (i.e. cold winters, humid summers) - while designed with duct systems adequate for comfortable heating (I don't know your location) lack the duct capacity for the cfm and velocity required for cooling. Often, and in any location dealing with high outdoor temps, if upper floor cooling wasn't specifically taken into consideration in the systme design it is difficult if not impossible to introduce enough air through the existing duct system. Something to try - if they are accessable and balancing dampers in the supply lines or registers exist, is to turn the lower floor area supply pipes down in an attempt to force more air to the upper floor. The system may run longer to achieve the same results at the lower level but may improve the upper, and that's what you're after. You indicated high ceilings in the great room and foyer. Chances are, if you could put on your wings and hover above, while it may be comfortable in the occupied "comfort" zone below, it would be uncomfortably hot up there as well. Most of that is cuased from solar gain. (heat absorbed by the roof deck and/or attic area) If there is inadequate insulation, the heat absorbed by the roof or concentrated in the attic via the roof will radiate through the ceiling. Poorly insulated walls will add to it as well at different times of the day and by that same principal of radiation. If there are sufficient ducted supply air outlets in the second floor and there seems to be a good velocity in terms of air flow, another problem may be inadequate return air intakes. You can easily check this by taking notice as to whether the situation seems to improve when the doors are left open in the upper rooms. There's a chance that pass through relief registers can help if that's the case - with the idea that when a room becomes pressurized no more air can enter than can escape. Comfort depends on good air exchange. It might help some, but rarely is the fix so easy. Window air conditioners are noisy and irritating as you probably well know. But there are split system units available that place the condensing unit (the noisy part) outside on a ground location and the evaporator section (actual cool air delivery part) in the room. Most models over time have improved a great deal and have reached a point where the indoor unit is extremely, almost unbelievably quiet and, in appearance, pretty inconspicuous. Refrigerant, low voltage wiring and condensate lines from the outdoor unit to the indoor do have to be dealt with. They can be run inside the wall, but it is most often easier and less labor intensive to run them outside. There are cover mouldings available in a variety of colors to lessen the mechanical appearance of the lines, and done well, really don't look all that bad. More than one indoor evaporator can be connected to a single outdoor condenser with the choice of the right equipment. Most indoor units are wireless remote control and ideal for problem areas. Theese systems can be a bit pricey, but have come down considerably over the years. So check his register locations, return air intakes and attic/roof/wall insulation. Additionally, but probably not something most people want to consider for asthetics sake - light colored roofs can be a big help as they are more reflective. Long winded! But I hope it gives you some ideas! Thanks for the chance to blab!

Thanks to "fasola-shapenote" posting above, - I totally took his advice. My issues were that my wife was against the idea of a whole house fan being installed in our new house, so based on my experience with my old houses whole house belt-driven fan (still) being too noisy, I went with the biggest fan I needed (42" Triangle Fan, and the Dayton shutters) to keep it as quiet as possible. After all, the bigger the quieter. This house is 4,100 sq. feet, - including the basement. So I took about 2/3 of that to conclude that I had 2,700 sq. ft. to evacuate. Considering the real estate in the attic, and the floor lay-out for the upper floor, I decided to install the fan in the main bathroom. Knowing I had to cut a joist, then at least I would have walls close by to support the Âbroken joist. I had already installed pull-down steps into the attic and flooring which limited me to where I could put the fan. I gave up on the idea of installing 2 or 3 24 inch fans. That could have been installed in another closet ceiling without cutting joists. But the noise would have been intolerable. And my wife didnÂt want the eye-sore of the shutters, even though they look fine to me. So I get this Triangle fan delivered off an 18-wheeler near my house. ItÂs shipping weight is 91 lbs, and I had to disconnect my attic steps just to get the thing in the attic. An inch to spare on all sides. I removed the 20 lb. Emerson motor from the fan, and with the help of another family member, used a rope and hook over my ceiling hole to lower the 70 lb fan into place. No small task for the faint-of-heart. But it went really well. For my roof joists, I had vertical center joists going up to the center of the house, and 30 degree joists jutting out in both directions. While the 42 inch shutters were flush with the ceiling, - the 46 inch width fan was raised 22 inches from that. I Âboxed in those 22 inches with ¼ plywood, and tele-scoped to the 46 inch opening for the fan. The 30 degree joists caught the weight of the 90+ lb. fan about 2 feet out. I bought a 60 minute timer switch and the Triangle fan came with itÂs Hi-lo-off switch. The motor is easier to wire when itÂs not attached to the fan. So with the work complete, the fan runs about as quiet as a dryer with no clothes on low. And still itÂs not annoying if I run it on high. I guess the 2 feet up helps. It was a labor-of-love which took me about 4 days to complete. IÂd say about 24 hours hands on. I was freaked about getting all the dimensions correct, - and I knew the joists wouldnÂt be "perfect". Also the drywall had some nail-pops afterwards, put that can be expected after the stresses of cutting it. All-in-all, IÂll be burning about 9 cents an hour vs. close to $2 an hour with my 2-tier air conditioning system(s). I figure itÂll take less than 3 years to re-coup my $700 + investement.

Non architect designed. No plans to use one (I did try). Homechef, I’m all for suggestions for an architect. mgh, can we ask what happened with the "try"? That might help everyone here on this thread with the process, and help you too going forward. I can't remember if it was on this thread or another recent one where I recommended the book "Designing Your Perfect House: Lessons from an Architect" by William J. Hirsch Jr., which is under $10 as an ebook on Kindle. Architect Sarah Susanka's books, and her "Not So Big House" concept, are also helpful for people who want to live large in a smaller house. I understand the non-negotiables. We farm too (500 head of cattle, some sheep, and a bunch of noisy chickens and geese), and made some compromises for the sake of function over form; on this quarter section, besides the house we have various established pastures, fields, and a corral system we can't/couldn't change. We're in Alberta and so also have an extreme climate, very cold in the winter (-40 F) and increasingly hot and humid in the summers (we're also, as of late, in a hail zone) which means certain concessions to the climate. That's why it can often help to have a fresh pair of eyes, especially if that person is experienced and creative. One of the biggest lessons I've learned from so many threads in this forum, and from our own experience is that at some point to get beyond the "box" approach -- meaning, both the boxes you tick off and a layout that looks like a bunch of boxes stacked next to each other -- you have to be willing to trust a bit more. Trust in someone who might actually know more about designing a house, a house that works and flows and gives you what you need. Trust in someone's creative vision enough to close your eyes and take a leap to find out that you can soar rather than crash.

Okay, there is something about building a home that no one ever talks about. TERMITES. Yes. TERMITES. They live and breed to take your breath, and your home and your investment away. Read all about them online, DO your due diligence. BEFORE you plan your landscaping, and after your exterior dirt is the way it will stay. If your budgeted expense did not include TERMITE RESISTaNT sheetrock(apparently a fairly new product, so it MUST be created for a need)... IF YOUR budget, did not buyTREATED LUMBER(just a deterrent, not a prevention) WHERE the plate meets the concrete.... IF you have peers and beam foundation, and your budget did not place a metal barrier(aluminum tin?) atop the concrete peer before the beams for the floor were installed, IF you saved money and used fingerjoint, or softwoods,(choose staingrade hard woods even if you want to paint it, termites will walk right over that in a fingerjoint paint grade window trim and take out that 'soft cellulose' and keep working around the hardwood that may be alternated or not in any given piece of window trim inside, for example) or sometimes called PAINT GRADE WOODS, on all your interior trim that comes in contact with the sheetrock and lumber. Before you choose spray on foam insulation, or batt insulation with PAPER(cellulose)on one side......teach yourself which one might be better for your environment. or if there are OTHER options......and how to try to not become the lead target for the next rainy season, or swarm of flying insects! ! Learn how to help yourself. It pays way better than your job does...... Most experts in their field, will never expect to think to tell you to avoid placing plants and shrub lines within the dripline or 2 feet(3 or 4 ft might be better?) of your home walls, and lumber retailers won't explain to you how great an idea it is to use a borate treatment on the lumber before you put it in your walls--- or your fence?? Others won't suggest to you that FILL DIRT might bring with it more than just WEED SEED, it has a small chance depending on the area, and potentially, can bring all matter of pests from grubs to ...termites.....as can the other earthen soils used to help construct a home...you could have options to treat or have the soil analyzed perhaps?? if you inquire? Those who are area professionals may have options for you to consider? Just 2 places that teach alot about dealing with the problem, but there are more out there and in videos too on greatly enhancing the main point: AVOIDING the problem.... https://www.domyown.com/termites-c-3.html or this: https://www.solutionsstores.com/ You can do this yourself? Just one idea is, and there are a variety of options, to create a barrier with fibpronil on the exterior perimeter of your home after the soil is settled...it makes a barrier for years, you do not want to disturb with digging up against your home, so wait till the ground is settled ---and it can degrade sooner with time if you live in a rainy season/area..Contact your local authorities if you need questions and service...they exist to help and make a profit, you can help them by being informed & knowing there is a balance of information and concern, but knowledge is for you there to learn in videos and many websites you can find if you go looking, look for the more recent headlines or news, so you don't miss the new things that they have now which maybe did not exist 10 or 5 years ago??.. ..You can purchase red button 'termite traps' , the directions tell you how and where to bury near your new homes perimeter, or old, you can purchase traps for your interior walls, designed to let you know if the pests get close to moving in--or if it's too late.......... Learn why and how to make the best decisions on keeping your home structure an UNINVITING place for these creatures. The new 'bait traps' are a great idea!! The Red button disappears into the tube if they have consumed the cellulose(their addiction)and you know you better get your perimeter protected if you have not.. One more proposal or consideration to plan carefully, don't plant vines on a pergola to root into your exterior siding... vines attract ants. Fireants, are a predator for TERMITES. As are salamanders......You don't want ants, or termites that close to your exterior walls. Those pictures of ivy on the old stucco walls of the castles, really are roots that make holes that let RAIN pour into your modern structure......when the plant is removed or disintegrates.. Take appropriate steps and stay diligent, this is one pest that can make you cry, with no odor, very little noise, and if you are seeing changes in the appearance of the inside or outside of your home or barn or tree house or play house...know what you are up against, so you react and create an ongoing plan, BEFORE you see the obvious signs. Thanks for sharing your journey. Spread the news that prevention is worth 100s of pounds of building materials, and hundreds of dollars of cure, for anyone that lives in a home, or builds a new home. It is very important.