All these systems are comparable. I don't think I'd splurge the $2000 to get the 15 SEER system unless rebates made it worth it, and in this case they don't appear to. You don't pay utilities, and between the Carrier products, you don't gain that much in way of features or reliability per se. You weren't quoted a "genuine" Amana unit. These units have model numbers starting with "A." They are considered a more premium unit in line with Carrier, for instance. However in comparing Goodman's base equipment with Carrier's base equipment, I don't see an advantage either way if all are from the same reputable installer. The installer will make the difference. Personally if I were looking to install a base grade model, I would look at Trane's XB line. For a builder model, I think they are pretty solid. Also more expensive. Or consider looking one step up in Carrier and Amana lines at the Carrier 25HCB360 or Amana ASZ14060.

MR. HAVAC. you must have seen me adjust TX's when i wasn't looking. The beer of choice is CLUB or what ever the customer has on hand. You got the Canadian adjustment right. Actually it is a trick question. All most all commercial refrigeration units use a high - low pressure switch piped into the suction line for the stat. If the unit uses a wall stat it is electrically connected to an electronically controled T.X. valve. This way the A.C. compressor can NEVER start until the pressure is within start limits. Some units also use delay on make timers in combination. Most hard start kits will void compressor warranty. If the compressor can't start under it's own power it is replaced. this is the way we do it. If a customer has thousands of dollors in parishable produce in a cooler that has a questionable compressor or it needs a hard start kit it is automatically replaced, no questions asked. Copeland had a bad run on some of their compressors a few years back and supplied a hard start kit for temp. repairs untill all bad compressors were replaced under warrenty. This was the first time a hard start kit was authorized. told you it was a trick question. Thanks for taking the test. Your results will be mailed to you in 10 working days :)

Missstella To your last question. Without going into technical jargon, electronic demand defrost is a feature on heat pumps that eliminate unnecessary, nuisance, and costly defrost calls. It is found only on a few brand/models of heat pumps including Trane/AmStd, York, and Rudd/Rheem. It is much more desirable over the cheap time/temp method of defrost. I don't think I said 2 ton was oversized. since this is upstairs system, I would probably stick to a 2 1/2 ton assuming you have has no cooling and/or humidity issues. Here is the Rheem system I would consider. 3879236 Active Systems RHEEM RPQL SERIES RHEEM MANUFACTURING COMPANY RPQL-030JEZ � RCFL-H*3617 RGPE-05?BMK? 29800 12.50 15.00 29200 9.00 18400 Existing lineset size will need to be verified. You would need a good two stg thermostat suitable for DF operation along with outdoor sensor. The heat pump would offer about 29 KBTUs and the two stg furnace would have a low stg of 35 KBTUs and high stage of 40 KBTUs which should be more than adequate for 1000 sq ft upstairs living space. IMO

Wait a sec... Are you saying you were having NO ISSUES and the guy is saying you need a new heater, capacitor and a hard start kit? If so, how do you know it actually needs replacing? If it were me, I'd get myself a decent amp meter and start checking... Maybe a meter like the Uni-T UT210E True RMS AC/DC Current Mini Clamp Meters w/ Capacitance Tester. It's under $50, and it should be able to check all the electric, expect for inrush current. If everything checks out, I'd never use the company, that sent that tech out again. BTW, if it doesn't have a hard start kit now, I doubt you'll need one... if the compressor or the fan wasn't starting, the 1st thing I would do is a visual of the capacitor (look for swelling and or leakage .. if either are happening, replace it; even if it tests good), and if it looked ok, I'd check the contactor. If that checks good, I'd then check the capacitor. Just remember.. if that contactor isn't working right, nothing else will, on your heat pump. Oh.. Have you seen this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWbeNfVOKWo Good Luck!