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removing kitchen floor tile

16 years ago

Kitchen designer said do floor last--kitchen installer thought the tile that was in place 12" porcelain looked fine, just redo grout. DH loved that idea because we were saving money. Everything (cabinets, appliances) went over that tile and we redid the grout by removing and changing the color to match the stainless steel appliances. While I was down there removing grout I noticed that there were several tiles that had cracks in them. We went with Zodiac counter tops and they were heavy. Cracked tile in front of the sink and by the stove. Also popping noises--sounds like loose tile--and now 8 months later the grout in some areas is crumbling. Of course now I'm wishing I had gotten a new floor with bigger tiles.

Can the tile be cut along the cabinets so that cabinets don't have to be removed? Even if there was a small 1 or 2 inch edge of tile it would be preferable to cabinet removal. (we love the color) Or is this just something I'm stuck with? Any suggestions out there?

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Comments (9)

jerry_t
16 years ago
The tiles can be cut within a 1/4" of the toe-kicks. Crain 795 Toe-kick saw with their optional dry-cut diamond blade.

Here is a link that might be useful: Toe-Kick Saw
jerry_t
16 years ago
This problem with cracking is stemming from whats underneath the tile... not whats sitting on top. Several possibilities why this happened but all are from the bottom side.
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I just saw the additional replies. Thank you everyone. With respect to the Dremel, it's not the typical Dremel, but the Dremel Saw Max. Pretty dang powerful actually. I used it on the tile countertops quite successfully. It doesn't have the needed cutting depth for this stuff though... I got half the kitchen done by using pry bars and a huge demo bar (Stanley FaxMax / BuBar III). It comes-up pretty easy actually, but the dang chicken wire makes removal a pain a times as it gets all tangled... Every video I find on electric rotary hammers shows the tool working like a champ, but just only on the tile itself. I have the thick (about 1") concrete with chicken wire below. I provide a link to such a video below. It seems that he has the concrete backer board which can be removed, if desired, by simply taking-out the fasteners. It's pretty hard to remove the tile without damaging the concrete below. Also, the new configuration of the kitchen dictates flooring changes, so it all must come-out (addressing a question above)... I'll strap-on the knee pads and get back at it in a bit... Thanks everyone. Here is a link that might be useful: Electric Rotary Hammer on Tile
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scdeb424
Original Author
16 years ago
Thanks "jerry t" for your quick response and for the toe-kick saw link.

I guess`we will have to check out why the tile cracked and solve that problem first.

The house is 18 years old on a crawl space. Tile sits on cement backer board that was put over the original vinyl floor. Tile has been down 8 years.
jerry_t
16 years ago
It's hard to say whats happened without being there in person. The existing vinyl is probably part of it, but there may be a few more issues too.

Something "gave" a little underneath the tile and tile itself has no give to it.

Sorry for your problems and I'm only attempting to alert you that something is going on. :)
glennsfc
16 years ago
I agree that the vinyl may have a role in why the tile is failing. Also could be how the cement backer was installed.
scdeb424
Original Author
16 years ago
Thanks for the replies on this tile problem.

The cement backer board was screwed into the layers beneath and maybe into some of the floor studs.

We have been in a severe drought for almost a year and we have red clay here.
floorguy
16 years ago
Cement backer board is layed into a combed bed of portland thinset, the same as setting the tiles on top, then fastened only to the stout subfloor. Failure to do so, will result in a failure down the road. A vinyl sandwich can be bad, depending on the vinyl. If it is 30 year old and hard as a rock, you may get by, but cushioned vinyl, no way!!
scdeb424
Original Author
16 years ago
Yikes! I know the backer board was not put on with thinset and the vinyl was the cheapest builder grade armstrong from the 1980's.

If and when the floor is replaced these problems will have to be addressed.

Thanks to all of you for the info and great suggestions--knowing makes it all less stressful.
glennsfc
16 years ago
One other thing about cement backer that most folks don't know is you do not fasten it into floor joists.

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