Of course you can glue to the tile. Re you gluing it all down or just that part with the tile?

there is no time frames ot limits on failures. chances are it will last 50 years. chances are also that tomorrow is can crack out and start the path to failure. it is a gamble. some win the roll of the dice and some lose. some customers are willing to take that gamble to save a few bucks onm removal. I can tell you of the huge numbers of replacements we do when customers come into our stores with complaints of previous installers/stores who have clad over an existing flooring product, had problems, then came to us to fix them. Actually I remember quite a few who came to us for a quote, then went with someone else when we told them something needed to be ripped out or extensively prepared to be done right, then had someone else do it "their way" to save a few bucks, only to come back to us and pay us to rip BOTH LAYERS out, buy new material from us, and pay us to install it again. That original few bucks they saved is now gone with much more wasted in labor and materials, so it ended up costing them exponentially more in the long haul. I am not saying this is the case with yours, but it is nevertheless a gamble. Standards exist because they give time and trade proven results. Doing it right the first time, there is little chance of failure.

My dh is adament about not taking up the ceramic floor. However, it's 8x8 white marble-looking tile and not only is it a dated look, I am sick to death of keeping it (especially the grout) clean. I was going to keep it and use grout colorant on the grout after we finish the kitchen facelift. But now I'm thinking granite or some other stone counter and if I really do that, the floor will really look terrible. Soooo, there is Allure that looks like stone or ceramic tile, and some that looks like wood. The guy at Home Depot said you don't have to put a leveler on the grout lines, and I read on the website that that is true if they are less than 1/8" deep, which mine are. But I still wonder if, over time, they won't sink into those lines. I could skim more grout on top of the grout lines so it is level with the top surface of the tile, and then at least the tile isn't ruined if at some point we take off the Allure. But I'd like to hear from someone who has done it. Anyone?

OK...a floating floor requires FLAT (no humps or bumbs or GROUT LINES at all). So that's issue #1. It's a big expensive issue. Thankfully this is stone which means a flooring professional can come in and grind off the sealant on the floor (yep...grinding...so much fun) and then fill the grout lines to get a smooth surface (the stone floor will be 'ruined' once this is done but that's OK...you didn't like it anyway). You can then use and acoustic pad (3mm or 6mm cork) underneath the laminate (don't put laminate in the kitchen please....it won't last more than 3-7 years) to get a quieter space. It won't do much to the echo but it will do something. Floor heights are your enemy. The carpet is sitting at (roughly) 3/4" high. That's normal for a regular carpet with a nice pad. That's the way they are designed. A stone floor or a tile floor or a hardwood floor will sit (roughly) 3/4" high as well. That's why carpet is designed to sit that high as well. Now onto the stairs....oh dear. Code violations abound. The top step MUST BE the same height as all the other steps. Must be. No other way around it (beautiful cat BTW...the black one's always seem to think they can 'hide' just by sitting still...even on a white background...hehehe). So that means a redesign of the stairs is going to happen. Now we get REALLY expensive. The price you save on leaving the tile in place will be the amount you SPEND on the stairs. Redesigning stairs to meet code can be THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS. A finishing carpenter is needed (there are 15+ different codes required for stairs...and finishing carpenters are the one's who know them all...and that knowledge is EXPENSIVE). And a floating floor requires a 1/2" expansion gap at all walls. Technically quarter round or shoe mold can be glued to the travertine base molding...but it won't be pretty. So you might as well jack those moldings off. You will then need to repair the drywall and add new molding after the floor is finished. Whew! There are so many other issues you are going to discover you have to fix (door clearance being one of many more = hundreds of dollars of trimming/painting your doors just to fit) just to save a few thousand dollars on the stone removal. As I can see, you have two stones (black entrance stone + travertine) and bathroom tiles to deal with. Not to mention the carpets. It sounds like you will need to have a 5 year plan just to deal with your 4+ different floors. And the stairs....oh dear the stairs. Technically you can save a few thousand for the stone removal...but you will probably spend that and more just to get the stairs up to code. As soon as you touch the stairs you have to bring them up to TODAY'S code. They can no longer be 'grandfathered' due to the age of the house. Please save for another few years so that you can remove ALL the flooring to do it all at once. Yes stone is a PITA to remove (can be $3-$4/sf to remove) but once it is gone it is gone. You never have to deal with it ever again. Going over top of the stone does not fix the problem = stone flooring. Every time you want to do something you will have to factor in the stone that is left in place. And you would have to pay for the 'stair' renovation each time you try to change flooring. It's your call. I would not float a floor over stone...not with stairs involved.