Marcia, as I sit here writing this response, we are having three Solatubes installed RIGHT NOW. What timing! The company is installing 3 10" DSe tubes. I can give you the prices right off his work order. The base price is $635 (bathroom). The one with 10' tubing is $809 and the other one is a 9' run at $775. There is an extra $25 charge for each tube for it being a DSe with a thermal pane upcharge. I am getting a light kit and exhaust fan in the bathroom one. That is an extra $500. You must use a CFL in a DSe according to Solatube customer service because the interior is so highly reflective. I am considering a tube in a stairwell in the future, and I cannot imagine a CFL giving enough light so we won't get a DSe there. But, it will be next year so the tax credit won't be an issue. I realize that these aren't cheap but I can tell you that it's a lot more work than people realize. These two guys have been here for eight hours and they're not done yet with the three applications. I can see the bathroom one already and the light is unbelievable and it's natural light like a window on the ceiling. Oh, btw, I am getting 15% off the entire bill. There is a Solatube offer this month and to get me to install the third tube, they agreed to discount the entire bill. That convinced me! Is AMT, Alternative Minimum Tax? I checked our returns and we didn't use that last year but our income will probably increase this year and hopefully we don't get hit. We have a son in college so hopefully that helps!

Quote #1 does not include increasing the size of the ductwork which needs to be done because you are replacing a 2 ton with a 3 or 4 ton (depending on the quote) and a 1.5 ton with a 3 or 3.5 ton. Quote #2 also includes zoning equipment/controls. There is a VERY large discrepancy in size of existing units vs. proposed units(both quotes) Did any of these contractors do a heat loss calculation? You should ask to see a manual J, which will determine the proper size system for the home. I understand the size needs to be increased due to the additions to the home, but what is the proper size? I would not sign any contract without a heat loss calculation first. That is the basics. Post back and we can continue this. Or email me @ woody22478@yahoo.com. I can forward you info and links to help explain better.

Airflow does not like to make sharp turns, so either elbows or turns with what are called turning vanes within each turn is preferred (turning vanes are sort of like "swoops" so as to avoid sharp angular turns). I would have no problem with the metal trunkline, insulated, with flex duct connectors preferably no longer than 6 feet, sized properly for the needs of each room. The dampers within the main trunkline, if installed, would help the installers balance the air distribution for the needs of each room. This is the best way to do it, but they need to take the time out to examine how much airflow each room will need, and the installers will have to be competent. I would clarify with this dealer how they will determine the airflow sent to each room; this would give you an indication of how much they understand airflow and its great importance to your comfort. These dampers are not something you would control, as they would be in the attic, but ideally they should only need to be adjusted once, PROPERLY. If the one who discussed radius elbows and volume dampers at each flex feed, and displayed an overall greater concern for the least airflow resistance, was the higher priced dealer, I would not be surprised.

Thanks. The furnace is rated 95% and I am confident that it qualifies. However, I couldn't get any results on the RUUD website. Rheem website came up okay and I know they are the same but I don't have the actual model numbers. Will get that info on Monday.