A variable speed blower is a good idea. I don't think you will regret it. It will cost more to replace but hopefully it will break while still under warranty. I personally don't think it is worth is to go above 14/15.
Don't worry about R22. If you can buy a unit with R22, buy it. Most recently redesigned models only come with R410. You will be able to buy R22 for many years to come.
Pennsylvania has had their electricity deregulated since 2000. I'm not sure what you are referring to.
It's more important to have your unit sized correctly and any duct issues corrected.

I prefer R22, 13 SEER and single speed. Do the math yourself but payback on these ultra featured/super expensive systems is often well beyond their expected lifetime.

I'd also avoid fancy air filters and humidification systems unless your health dictates the need.

There are very few techs that can service simple systems let alone all these new high end systems. I believe in KISS.

how does one calc the cost savings? All I have is a chart that shows COOLING savings on an 8/10/14/15/18 SEER as a percentage. What about HEATING? As we are getting zapped and my wifes hair has a mind of its own I am turning on the humidifier...I guess I do not need to buy a new one.

As far as the deregulation in PA, all I know is PP&L is about to spend $5M notifying all customers about the situation, that they should expect their bills to rise and how they can conserve energy. The kicker is they want to pass the $5M notification costs to its users. It was just in the paper here in PA. This is why I am considering a propane furnace....though no one seams to know anything about them.

I definitely recommend a variable speed air handler for getting warmer air from a heat pump. Also, get a system that delays blowing until the temps at the register are 95-100 degrees F.

A 2-stage heat pump will allow even greater efficiency and greater moisture removal in the summertime. We have a single stage heat pump and it does fine to about 10 degree F and then the aux electric kicks in.

There are federal tax credits for upgrading.

The link below descrbes the tax credits and requirements.

Here is a another link for a spreadsheet from the federal gov. for calculating heating energy costs for various fuels and/or system efficiencies. It has an area to enter rated HSPF factors and then downgrades it or upgrades it based on your location. I did not read the logic behind this, but I assume it has to do with variations between the the ARI heating location or region standard which HSPF ratings are based and how the unit is expected to perform in other locations. It's interesting to play with:

http://www.energystar.gov/ia/business/bulk_purchasing/bpsavings_calc/Calc_CAC.xls

The highest HSPF ratings I have seen listed are 9.6-9.7 for the Hallowell units. Our 2001 model Carrier 38YRA heat pump (single stage with R22) was advertised up to 9.0 (264%) HSPF but the above calculator drops it down to 6.6 or 194% efficiency for our location.

Here is a link that might be useful: Tax Credits for upgrades

Andre:

"how does one calc the cost savings?"

First, you need to figure how much your present compressor costs to run now. To get a ballpark cost, look at the data plate on the outside unit. Find the Running Load Amps (RLA). My 20 year old unit (7 SEER) uses 22 amps. Multiply the RLA x 220 (volts) x the cost of electricity (use 10 cents per kw as a guestimate) and divide by 1000 to convert from kilowatts to watts.

So, in my case:
22 x 220 x .10/1000 = .484 dollars/hour = 48.4 cents/hour to run the compressor motor.

My neighbor's 3 year-old 11 SEER uses 16 RLA.
So, 16 x 220 x .10/1000 = 35.2 cents/hour which is 27 percent less expensive to run than my unit.

"The saleman even said we could get a gas fireplace that runs on propane---no natural gas in our area."
- Propane is one of the most expensive types of heat, but if your allergies can't handle wood or pellets, then do what you feel is best to your present wood-burning fireplace.

"and my wifes hair has a mind of its own I am turning on the humidifier..."
- You can add an in-line humidifier to your present or future heat pump.

"Does propane cool the house too?"
No.

I agree with Davefr. When my unit dies, I will replace it with a 13 SEER, single speed fan. No whole-house filtration or other gadgets.

ANDRE

First of all, the average life of a heat pump is apprx 15 yrs old so yours has provided a life expectancy way beyond the norm. Today's heat pumps are very much superior to a 20 yr unit in comfort.

IMO, Trane/AmStd make the best heat pumps in their mid to high end range. However, Carrier/Bryant have the superior overall HP system with their sophisticated controls on the Infinity/Evolution models.

I would check to see what tax credits are available and what the qualifications call for.

One can debate the refrigerant issue all day long. At this time, I don't think it matters. I would just not pay a premium for R-410a refrigerant equipment and if all things were equal, I would go with R-410a. While the proponents of R-22 will disagree, the market is moving to R-410a and R-22 will eventually be phased out. That is a fact.

If this will be your home for many yrs to come, I would go with a var speed blower system. Here are the reasons.
It is quieter to operate, it costs less to operate, it provides better dehumidification in AC mode, it provides better room to room temp constancy, and if a good whole house filter cabinet is included, it will provide better air quality.

I would look at the 2 stg XL16i in Trane or Heritage 16 in American Std.

If operating cost is important to you, then I would stay away from propane as the primary source of winter heating.

My opinion.
Good LucK!

This is all helpfull. Note that my salesman said that propane was actually cheaper (in my area) than electric and that 70 degrees of propane heat will feel a lot warmer than 7- degrees of heat pump heat.

Do I undersand that the newer units blow hotter air for less? One of the purposes of the variable speed, as I understood it, was that it would run longer at a lower speed thus minimizing the amount of that 'colder' air coming out of the vent. Sure if the home gets too cold then it will force out more air at a higher rate of speed.

Ex: the vent blows on my wife when she sleeps. It comes out forcefull enough that she can feel it. If it were toasty warm she would not mind but since the air blown out is less than our body tem, it feels cold. My understanding is that the air would blow out with a lot less velocity but for a longer duration with the variable speed. I am guessing there is more to it. Are you suggesting that the air will somehow blow warmer than my unit today?

HA. I plugged in an SEER16 vs 10 and saw a savings of 126% over the units life. However when I switched the dropdown from FLA to PA (where I am) the savings went to -1% or so. I'll need to adjust the electric cost but I am beggining to think:

1) The more efficient units on really save on AC not heat
2) I may not see my winter heating bill change at all. This I may be better off with the cheapest unit....

I really thought these pumps would be more efficient in the winter too...?

Hello,
B4 you jump into the fray, ask friends what they have. Propane is not for city homes. It is for country homes. Propane or any gas will always produce a hotter air from the duct, providing everything is installed properly. Dual fuels is for the very rich, in as much as, the payback is never there. It is only about convience. If you install propane, you will introduce a new set of headaches to life. You will increase your utility bills up front for the next year or so by having to rent or purchase the propane tank, then buy the propane.

In your area, the variable speed blower may help comfort. In my climate area, N. Texas, it is worthless. Remember when you reduce airflow, you reduce system capacity. IMO the variable speed drive is not a good investment from a maintenance point of view. Unless you already have warrantee maintenance, It will eventually cost more to operate. I am sure this will change in the future, but at this time electronics in the home are very expensive to repair. As to freon? Buy what you want. F22 or its substitute f407 will be available for many years in the future. Look at F12; It is still available in a safe blend and the blend works in my hot climate very well. The cost of the blend is about $1 more than F134 the most common freon for cars. The difference in F410 and F22 is about double the cost. F410 equipment IMO is not ready for prime time. It will be the only thing available soon, but until the big boys change thier manufacturing processes, the equipment will cost much more for operations. (including maintenance and electricity)

Charts are always misleading. For example, My system would probably rate less than a 5 SEER on paper, but in operations, it exceeds an 18 SEER. This sounds impossible. To make it even better, IN a hot climate the SEER rating quickly drops into the mud on days over 100F. My system maintains performance on hot days. SEER does not care about hot day performance. In fact SEER is only calculated for a 6 minute run time of 10 minutes. HVAC systems are not designed for this run time. Performance declines rapidly when the equipment gets hot. Variable speed is predicated on extended run times. Bah Humbug!

so....why am I starting to get the idea that I just by a 13 SEER non variable regular freon unit and take the $$$$ saved and put it towards a gas insert (propane) in my family room (which likely will heat the whole first floor with toasty warm heat)!

I should save something on my electric bill by using the propane...maybe not dollar for dolaar but still...

"Save on electric bill by using propane?"

Your logic is faulty.

Do yourself a favor and run the numbers on attached fuel comparison calculator. Yes, you can use a propane gas insert as supplemental or emergency heat but it will be very expensive.

Here is a link that might be useful: Fuel Comparison Calculator

Newer heat pumps will blow air at a much higher temperature than your old system, especially at outdoor temperatures above 10 degrees F on the heat pump alone mode. They put out around 100 degree air at the registers, which is warm to the touch. Below 10 degrees outside, the amount of heat coming from the pump is minimal and so the electric backups come on. This is based on my experience with the Carrier system.

The Hallowell system claims to produce 30K BTU/hour and 99 degree air without electric backup down to -15 degrees F. This seem like an advance over everything else available.

The variable speed fan is obviously a big part of warm air distribution, but the computerized controls also are important. It does (on our Carrier) such things as delay the blower coming on to allow the air to warm up, turn the blower off when the compressor shuts down to prevent blowing cool air, stage the electric heat backup elements when needed, and turn on the backup elements when in defrost mode.

When comparing the latest high rated HSPF (9.6) systems to ours (8.2-8.4 as a guess), it appears to be a 10% energy savings. We used approximately 3,460 kWh (11.8M BTU) for heating last year. At $.085/kwh, the annual energy savings for a new system would be $29.41.

After reading this article, it seems that SEER and HSPF are not so simple:

Here is a link that might be useful: Climate Impacts on HSPF and SEER

The register should blow towards the window, so that it mixes with the colder air. It may have been istalled backwards.
Here's my take on VS, 410, SEER:
Definitely go with the variable speed. There is not that much more to it. It has an expensive motor, but it uses about as much energy as a 100-watt light bulb. It runs so quiet you can't hear it. You have to put your hand in front of the register to tell if it is running. Not only that, but it will remove more humidity from the air in the summer, because the air spends more time over the coil during a cycle, and you can set your tstat to a warmer setting and still be comfortable.
I would go with 410. I just bought 2400 pounds of R-22 to stock up for the beginning of summer, and I got a deal because I beat the rush and bought some of what little remains of last year's inventory. R-22 prices are going up, and soon will start to go up faster. R-410 prices are going down slowly, but as R-22 becomes scarce R-410 sellers will become more competitive. Five years from now you will be kicking yourself for getting an R-22 system. Caveat: Check to see if the dealer has some 410 experience and equipment, such as manifold gauges and micron gauges.
I would't be in any big hurry to buy 18 SEER unless you have the money and don't mind parting with it. It's nice to have, but it's like buying a BMW. (900-dollar brake jobs.) But 14 or 15 SEER? No problem. It will pay for itself in 5 years or so, and then it will pay you.
A heat pump will not do you any good in the winter in PA, and if you do not have a guard over the top (like Trane), you will have ice build-up on the fan and could burn up some components. But it is nice to have in the spring and fall.
It is not nearly as necessary as in southern states, it is seldom installed in cold climates, and therefore when problems arise it may be difficult to find a service tech who knows much about fixing one!
"Fancy" air filters: The particles you can't see are the ones that are the most harmful to your health. A near-HEPA quality filter, such as an Aprilaire 2200, or a 5000 (best according to Consumer Reports) will filter them out. It will also protect your furnace or air handler from caustic deposits over the years and prolong its life.
Humidity is also an important issue. Not enough and the furniture and floors and every other porous item shrinks. Airborne particles stay suspended in the air. Mucous membranes dry out. Too much and things like mold and bacteria become a problem. I would consider getting a humidifier and a good bathroom fan.

Thanks. We have bath fans and turned the humidfier on. I now have a humidifier question but I will post that as a new topic.

So I guess I'm sort of screwed on heating here in PA. My only alternative is a propane furnace---never heard of those. We are thinking of a propane gas insert for some first floor comfort...trying to see what that would cost vs how much less electricity I would use.

You might look into geothermal and solar. Payback is longer, but they will serve you all year long.

I would think geothermal would require new ducting, a well etc...way out of our price range.

Andre

Again, I encourage you to run the numbers on propane vs electric. I personally think relying on propane as your primary source for winter heating is a big mistake.

All you need is your electric rate, propane cost, and eff rating for a propane furnace and heat pump. Numbers will tell the tale.

www.warmair.com

I second that motion.

...will do! In reality we'd like a fireplace insert for ambience and the toasty warm heat it will provide. Wood is out---alergies. The insert will likely heat the first floor. There should be some electric savings...after I run the number I guess I'll get an idea of how much electric I'll save vs how much more I'll spend on propane....I guess it won't be a dollar for dollar trade as I had hoped. I think the propane furnace idea is out.

I used the calculator referenced above. What I really needed to know was what to enter for my kwh. I got my bill. My costs are broken into 3 rates over 4 categories:

Customer Charge:
200KWH @2.183
600KWH @ 1.975
2,658 KWH @ 1.855

Transmission Charge:
3,458 @ .568

Transition Charge:
200KWH @ 1.338
600KWH @ 1.186
2,658 KWH @ 1.095

Generation Charge:
200KWH @ 5.728
600KWH @ 5.034
2,658 KWH @ 4.168

I have no clue what the heck all this means...no doubt the electric company' intention...who knows.

I do need a single KWH charge to enter into the calculation sheet. I took all the KWH charge (NOT the ones related to the 200/600 figures) and added them and got a little over 7 cents per KWH. When entered into the sheet vs propane costing $2.50 a gallon in my area....electric comes in almost 1/3 the cost of propane. This appears hard to believe so I likely entered the wrong amount for KWH. Also I have no idea what the sheet's result is telling me....is that a monthly charge it calculates.?
Anyone with a quick explanation let me know.

I am also thinking that if I can find the heating efficiency of my 20 year old heat pump and knowing the efficiency of a new one...I should be able to figure roughly what a new heat pump would have saved me this past month...no?

THANKS!

Andre

You have what appears to be a tiered system for billing your electric usage.

first 200 KWs $0.0982/KW
next 600 KWs $0.0876/KW
above 800 KWs $0.0786/KW

You appear to have a very favorable rate for a HP.For comparison purposes, you will need to use an average. I probably would use a cost of $0.082.

Keep in mind that your KW usage will greatly increase with a HP air handler with strip heat for those extra cold days but I would expect it to still be cost effective against the high cost of propane. For my money, you have two choices; a high eff heat pump with var speed air handler and heat strips or a dual fuel system that is a high eff heat pump with propane gas backup. Definitely get a var speed blower.

I ran some numbers and the cost comparison for a heat pump running in normal mode is very compelling.

My opinion.