Get a lead paint test kit and see what you are dealing with. Then decide how to go about making them how you'd like them. In NYC, I can't sand anything with paint, unless I inform the consumer about the potential hazard and provide them a pamphlet from the DEP.

Hi, Congrats on acquiring such an interesting home. I think the mystery finish is a faux wood graining; when the original finish (probably shellac or oil varnish) became tatty looking, to save a complete refinishing, somebody decided to cover the flaws with the paint/stain/varnish method. Graining is notorious for being nearly impossible to touch up. The steps involved would be a very deep cleaning to remove gunk. Then any chips in the grain coat may be filled in with artists colors (even wood-tone sharpie-type markers) and finally a new layer of varnish to protect the artistry for another few decades. The aptness of the colors mixing and application will tell in the finished product. If you did decide to strip it to the original finish (maybe it's some fabulous hardwood!) the job will be more or less difficult depending on how much grain base paint embedded itself in the pores and scratches of the wood. You would probably find yourself touching up the indelible paint spots with markers or paint to color them to match the hardwood. Casey

If the primer is older than 30 days, you need to re-prime, preferably with Latex. It's too hardened off to bind well to new paint. * Then...2 coats of a good quality Latex paint. * I'd use a Satin or S/Gloss sheen for the "wear & tear" factor. * If existing paint/old prime-coat is well-adhered & no chipping/flaking...you're OK on the lead issue. Go ahead & reprime/paint. * If/when you do the stripping estimates, be aware...it might not be that cheap! Lead you know! Many precautions need to be taken/paid for on the re-finishers' end. Faron

Three rooms worth of paint is a lot of work to remove. The issue isn't really with the paint, though. It's all the hidden fasteners that wears out the paper, damages the machines and waste a lot of time from having to stop and set it. Which means cost to refinish is higher. If, you strip the paint and expose all the nails. The flooring contractor will have no problem sanding the floors. You can paint the floors with a non-toxic stripper and let it sit overnight. Come back the next day and scrape everything off. There are buffing drivers out there designed to remove the paint, which helps save money on damages to the sander and sandpaper. It is an investment. The floor guy will need to do some investigating on it.