Urethane vs Glitsa hardwood finish
12 years ago
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- 11 years ago
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Pre-finished or site finished hardwood
Comments (6)As a hardwood floor enthusiast, having been in the hardwood floor business all my life, it is site-finished hands down for me. Aside from the aesthetic knocks I have against prefinished floors (seams you can see and feel with your feet, a funny sheen, no choice on sheen, color fading problems, etc.) the main point I stress with my clients is maintenance. You mention small children and a dog, both of which I have to contend with on my own floors. Any hardwood floor you choose will eventually show signs of wear. With the proper finishes on a site finished floor, restoring your floors to new is very feasible. With a factory finished floor, it is virtually impossible. With the current cost of unfinished red and white oak in standard widths of 2 1/4" and 3 1/4" at extremely low prices, we have been finding that site finished floors can actually be less costly than even median factory finished floors. The difference in material price easily offsets the cost of sanding and finishing. Of course, any homeowner making this decision must consider the possible issues of dust, fumes, and time off the floors. It is imperative to find a top-notch floor finisher who works primarily or exclusively in occupied homes. You need a finisher who can keep dust to an absolute minimum (which is possible) and who uses high-end water based urethanes such as Bona, Glitsa or Basic Coatings. Each of these companies makes a commercial grade water based urethane that will be prefect for your traffic needs. They are also very low in VOC's and some are green guard certified. The best reason to use them, though, is that 5, 8, 10 or more years from now when you see a traffic pattern becoming visible, a good floor finisher can use the same finish to "re-coat" just those areas showing wear. It is possible to blend these newly recoated areas into the surrounding areas without moving all your furniture. This is typically very affordable and takes only a few hours to complete and dry. In this way you are able to indefinitely maintain your floors making it possible to avoid ever sanding them back to the wood. Unfortunately, with prefinished floors, once they wear out, all you can do is to sand them back to the wood and do exactly this process. To make matters worse, most of them now come with aluminum oxide finishes which make this refinishing very difficult. I say, why install a floor trying to avoid refinishing when refinishing will eventually be the only way to make them look good again? Get it right from the start, use the best finishes out there, the right finisher and then maintain your floors. You will have floors you love for life....See MoreSpar waterborne urethane VS. regular oil based urethane
Comments (16)I'm a fan of the Bona Traffic products. Seem nearly bulletproof and look OK. Used their amber sealer underneath to get a more oil-like color and pop the figure on our birdseye maple floor (I think it's a shellac formulated to be waterborne--that's the way it acts, anyway). In my shop I used the Traffic HD and I've been dragging 400 lb machines across it for the last three years without damage. The wood dents sometimes, but the finish doesn't break. It gets lots of wet boots and sand. In our prior house the "Professional" oil based finish wore away to the wood in high traffic areas in three years. The DIY Bona Traffic finish I put down after that still looked like new when we sold 10 years later. It's really hard to beat a high quality catalyzed polyurethane finish for durability. Oil will undoubtedly look better, but not for long unless you observe the no shoes in the house ritual. I'll give up something on looks to be able to walk in my house without thinking about my feet. Wood shop floor done in "mixed domestic hardwoods" finished with Bona Amberseal and Traffic HD...See MoreFlooring Pros; Need nail down hardwood floor acclimation/finish HELP!!
Comments (21)The acclimation you've been recommended to use is generally how we've done floors forever EXCEPT when using wider planks. As was noted above, have the plywood and wood checked. If they're too far apart the area can be dehumidified to bring the plywood moisture down and/or the wood will add moisture if it's particularly dry. Make sure the contractor is putting a vapor/moisture barrier (not retarder) between the concrete and the plywood. I don't recommend any barrier between the wood and plywood. Some pros have been burned using (probably cheap) water based finishes and refuse to use anything other than oil based. Others think you should use only the newest technology finishes and exclusively use water based. We use both. With a stained, hand-scraped White Oak, I would choose oil based polyurethane. No water based finish compares to the durability of oil modified. Considering the cost, it's a no-brainer unless you have special circumstances. As to staples vs. nails, we've used both and seen little difference in the performance. My preference would be for nails but the industry seems to have moved more toward staples....See MoreOiled hardwood floors from PG Hardwood Flooring
Comments (0)Has anyone installed PG Hardwood oiled flooring - colour "Hangar"? If so I'd love to see pictures of how it turned out. Also looking for thoughts on oiled vs. Urethane coating. I love these boards, but it's only available in oiled finish......See MoreRelated Professionals
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