I'll chip in because I've been fighting with my garden, and came to a few conclusions. For those of us in "rich" soils, i.e. clay or anything fairly high in organic matter, our drainage seems to be our downfall... I personally mix in mulch and peat to get a little organic material to provide a good starter soil for the bugs/worms to break down, then continue mulching to keep the organic material adding. Sand can be a solution, but more than likely we'll never be able to really improve drainage by just adjusting the top foot or two of dirt; the real action is down below and most of us (including myself) will never change that. So we have to deal with that top 2 feet and moderate our watering accordingly. The #1 most important thing with any plant that needs "sharp drainage" is Air. I know, you're thinking, well, duh... but if you think of it in the reverse, it makes more sense... water inhibits air, so balancing air is much easier if you know your water input. More than anything else, soil needs to exchange air. If you have a clay soil, organic material will be your best bet for the long term in fluffing. Until you hit like 30% sand by volume in your soil, it's not making much air space. Unless you're bringing in for beds, It's probably not worth the effort of adding because you'll need so much. Or at least this is the conclusion I've come to. Different soils and sands depending on their chemical composition can solidify into a hard pact material. A higher pH soil will run the danger of hard packing, or if your soil sometimes water logs. The ebb of acidic rain through high pH sand can harden the sand into a cement like material. If you're going to amend with sand, try to find some that is not calcium/magnesium based, i.e. no shells or anything that would bubble with vinegar. Play sand that is silicate based is usually fine. But the real thing I'm surprised about is that more people don't use an automated watering systems. I know in the west a lot of people do, and I get fantastic results with my drip irrigation system, even in my clay soil that I have ammended with peat and mulch. I find a small amount of water correctly placed on a regular basis can grow just about any plant. If you're placing just a small amount around the base of the plant, it can drain quickly and get air. Roots are more like lungs than anything. If you haven't looked at drip irrigation, it's hugely successful, and can mitigate poor soil by letting you apply water in a very targeted way instead of flooding the entire bed. Just my $.02 Here is a link that might be useful: Drip Irrigation Link

This would be extremely easy to do. If you know WordPress you could get it all done in about two working days. If not, there will be a learning curve but it won't be too terribly painful. Will cost a few hundred dollars to DIY. You need to choose your host. HostGator is a good option since you won't have tons of traffic or big, beefy content files. There are others, so check out your options carefully. I've been thru a few WordPress themes and the best one I've found, that offers the most options for revisions to keep overall design fresh is from Envato/Themeforest it's called The7. http://goo.gl/Z1E8Uk To control privacy of members and access to content you have two options, you can go LMS or MMS. LMS is Learning Management System plugin. It's what elearning sites use. MMS is Membership Management System plugin. It's what many coaching type sites use. LMS plugin would be like LearnDash. MMS plugin would be like WishList. All you do is install your plugin of choice, create your posts with content and images just like they're regular WordPress posts (or pages) and then use your LMS or MMS to identify the members that can have access to the content. The super simpler way to do this would be to just install WordPress and password protect each and every post. I'd use one password for all. Give the passwords to patients and call it done. The problem with that, however, is you won't have any control beyond that. You won't have a list. You won't know what accessed what, etc. And as you get more experienced with WordPress and plugins, you won't be able to go back and capture membership information - that train will have already left the station, so to speak. Plus, you're going to have to deal with people losing the password. A LMS or MMS system allows a member to reset passwords on their own. So, you're better off, IMO, going with some kind of membership route right from the beginning so you at least have the option of doing things with the email list it builds for you. Like, sending a blast of information to the whole group of patients is probably the most basic thing you would want to do. The best strategy is to build it for growth down the road even if you think it will always be small. If you hire someone to build a site for you, my guess is it will cost anywhere from $1,500 to $3,000. One of the most important things to establish FIRST is how you want your permalinks formatted. It's easy to do from the WP dashboard. Settings>Permalinks and then choose a radial button. You want short permalinks: Like This: http://doctordiet.com/sample-post/ Not This: http://doctordiet.com/2014/09/21/sample-post/ Hope that helps.

Juliehc, it sounds like you're cooking. I like the cozy sound of saturated gray, but a white ceiling sounds both rather harshly contrasting and as if the white will set it off as not belonging with what's below it. That's a cousin to the problem illustrated in those initial pictures of a room that Hhireno so accurately described as decorated for a lower flat ceiling, with the rest just sort of...up there. A lighter neutral paint on the ceiling that was dark enough to blend calmly into the walls, or more accurately walls into ceiling as the eye travels up, would help make the ceiling part of the room. (I like beige with gray and wonder if that would be a place for it.) I was also struck by Hhireno's comments about the effect of furniture shapes in the pictures Palimpsest posted. This isn't the only way to decorate high volumes, but it certainly works exquisitely in those pictures. Allied with that is my own observation that in every one of those designs, which are meant to celebrate their wonderful high spaces and make them look their best (rather than "deal with" or ignore them as problems), is that dark, contrasting colors are kept low, while the rest of their volumes soar with little interruption to their lightness. Julie's going warmer and richer with grays and beiges, with a very different feeling in mind, but I feel sure there're lessons in there anyway.

Just about every "under cabinet" hood has the option of venting straight out the back (through the wall). Some under-cabinet models readily adapt to wall-hung mounting. For those that do not, you can suspend them from above by a discreet "L" bracket at either end. Or, you hang a discreet shelf from the brackets and hang the hood from the shelf. (That's how I had a Zephyr Cyclone mounted in my kitchen for years it took for me to get around to finishing the glass door cabinet that is now on that wall.) Another option, albeit a little less "inconspicuous" than that: install a wall hood and have the top vent be a 90° elbow back through the wall. If you deem the short but visible length of round ducting to be insufficiently inconspicuous, you can cover it with a somewhat less obtrusive (but matching) box that is roughly 8"w x 8"d x 14"h. Many wall-hung hoods offer this kind of option including, I believe, the Savonna that you mentioned. If you are tiling the wall, you can make the box out of backer board and tile it, too. A third option: buy a "hood liner," install an inline fan, and have a local metal shop or cabinet shop fabricate whatever box you want around it. This tends to be fairly inconspicuous in the kitchen but will havea honking fixture on the exterior of the house. Have you tried the "kitchen" forum here? Lots of design experts over there.