Hardwood floor and dogs - refinish or new floor?
cas66ragtop
13 years ago
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Comments (8)
glennsfc
13 years agowoodfloorpro
13 years agoRelated Discussions
which hardwood floors that can refinished?
Comments (9)Over cement slab without a plywood subfloor, you're mostly looking at engineered or laminate glue down or floating floors. Laminate is, well, laminate, not wood. Most engineered floors can only be sanded/refinished once, maybe twice - as they have just a thin layer of solid wood. The only thick, *solid* wood floor (and I mean solid wood) that can go directly over cement slab is sold by a scandinavian company called "Junckers." They have wood flooring in Beech, Ash, Oak, Merbau, etc. in 9/16 inch, 7/8 inch and 3/4 inch thicknesses that can be floated over slab. The thicker ones can be refinished a gazillion times (well, maybe not a gazillion, but 7 at least). I've had mine (7/8 Beech Classic) for years both in my current home and in my previous home . I absolutely love them!! Several of my friends have installed them as well after having seen mine. I have no plans on refinishing them anytime soon, but it's nice to know I can if I need to. The fact that they the folks at Junckers are environmentally conscious (i.e., they only use wood from reforested areas, they use 100% of the wood they harvest, and they get their timber from registered sustainable forest growers) is an added bonus. http://www.junckershardwood.com/ourproducts.html This place seems to have discounted prices: http://www.fastfloors.com/_library/search.asp?qcat=Hardwood+Flooring&qman=Junckers&qser=7/8+Classic Here is a link that might be useful: junckers floors...See Moreengineered hardwood floor over old hardwood floor
Comments (14)You need to do a little more archeological digging still. You need to know the whole construction of the floor before you can decide how best to install something new. I'd take up that plywood piece in the kitchen and see what's under it. It's higher than the surrounding floor, so needs to go. You should also be able to see from there what subfloor is under the original kitchen hardwood. It's too bad the space under your entryway is finished, but I'd still do some exploring from below to see what's under there, and to figure out the fix to stop it from squeaking. Is it drywall below or a drop ceiling? I know it probably seems like a pain to tear out drywall, but if you cut out a clean patch, like 2' x the width of the joists, it'll be relatively simple to repair. Just make sure to cut it down the center of the joists so that there's room to screw the patch piece to it later. Cut the hole under the area that squeaks the most, if you can. Have someone walk on and watch the floor from below to see what's moving. It might be as simple as pounding in a couple shims from below, or face-nailing a loose board from above. You want to find out what's underneath the hardwood. It might be laid directly on the floor joists, or there might be 10" wide boards that the hardwood is nailed to. Another thought is to take out a board in the hallway, since that's not original and you want to replace it. See what the subfloor is there. I am a bit puzzled at why, when you've stripped the kitchen down to the original hardwood, it's still higher than the hallway floor. Is your current surface perhaps not the original kitchen hardwood? Peeling back the plywood area will help determine that. BTW, I haven't heard of that stop squeaking product you linked to, so can't offer any personal opinion. And don't pour self-leveling compound over top of hardwood. It needs to go over plywood....See MoreRefinishing hardwood floors- oil or latex?
Comments (1)Prior to application of the waterborne urethane you have a variety of options for sealing the floor. You can use a standard DuraSeal or Bona penetrating sealer that is applied then the excess is removed by hand or you can use a product like Bona DTS or AmberSeal that will accentuate the color of the wood without turning amber over time. No waterborne finish wears as well as oil poly and the better finishes are a few times as costly. We use mainly Bona products (in case you couldn't already tell). Their Traffic is a very nice product. Their new Mega HD Clear is almost as nice at a significantly lower cost. I don't recommend applying an excessive number of coats unless you know you won't maintain the floor properly. Besides having walkoff mats, protection on furniture legs and keeping the floor free of grit that causes wear, the floor should be recoated when it gets scuffed and worn (but before it gets worn through). My choice would be to find a time to refinish the floors while I was out of town and finish with two coats of gloss or semi-gloss oil poly and one coat of satin. That will likely see you through until the kids grow up and the dog is gone. Then your floor will be orange and you can have it refinished again....See MoreNew hardwood does not match old hardwood after sanding and refinishing
Comments (2)I have white oak floors throughout. Pictures will tell us whether red oak was used. Please post a few....See Morecas66ragtop
13 years agospringlering
13 years agospringlering
13 years agospringlering
13 years agobrickeyee
13 years ago
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