We did an install of BR-111 tigerwood in a below-grade concrete slab basement! That particular brand was the only one that was even possible for below grade. We had to level the slab with SLC, then roll on the specific polyurethane rubber sealant/waterproofer, then lay the flooring with the co-ordinating adhesive. It was a never-again (until the next time) kind of job. Just an real awful experience with all the steps and compounds with their vapors and sticky cleanups. But after 3 years it has held up with no issues at all. Fast forward, and the same homeowners have asked to do the other basement space across the hall, so here we go again. Casey

My neighbor used a cork underlayment between their glued down engineered wood floor and concrete slab; we had our floor glued directly onto the concrete. I notice no difference in sound or feel when walking on their floor and on ours. Also, my neighbor has complained about how cold and hard her floor feels and how it aggravates her knees. Neither floor sounds hollow...they're not floating floors, they're glued down. I'd like to emphasize strongly what livewireoak said about the importance of a flat substrate. Apparently, our concrete substrate was not flat, and the boards did not stick (they are 5" wide planks which makes it even more important for a level substrate as they won't "give" like a narrower plank might). After the installers returned for the third time to drill holes to inject glue because of non-sticking planks (we counted 90 drilled holes), we said enough. We hired a floor inspector and he showed us with a 6' level that some areas of our substrate had a 1-1/2" variance, which was why the planks were not sticking. We demanded a new floor and the builder complied. But it was a mess pulling up that glued floor and leveling the concrete.

Quietwalk or 1/4" cork. I've seen the Eco-cork "numbers" and how they achieved them....not pretty. Unless you can buy your downstairs neighbor a 12" drop-down Armstrong Acoustic ceiling, you will not get what you want from that product. Eco-Cork foam is 90% polyethylene foam (not cork). They HAD to add cork because of some complaints that they were using the word "cork" when it didn't have ANY cork (100% polyethylene foam = false advertising anyone?). So...they added a snick of cork and then republished their old numbers. Done like dinner. And still wonky after all these years. Having sold and worked with cork for more than 6 years, I have investigated pretty much every underpad out there. QuietWalk is the ONLY one I have respect for. Please use their 3mm thick pad...or thicker if you can. The 1/4" cork is lovely because you throw it down like a beach blanket. No tape. No glue. Just butt the edges together and start laying the floating wood floor. It will help even out tiny wobbles in the gypcrete...which is helpful because gypcrete is a PAIN in the @ss to deal with if it needs patching. Either one will get you a nice quiet home....the cork will be more rigid and sometimes that is needed over a little bit of a wonky subfloor.

OK...you have a few options: 1. Live with it and get the Builder to CARRY the 25 year/life time warranty of the flooring manufacturer because they voided the warranty due to "improper installation technique". OR, 2. They pull up everything and fix it at their expense. The way you can get your way is to find the manufacturer, the product 'line' and then find the INSTALLATION instructions. You print off the instructions (2 copies please) and organize a meeting. You SIGN AND DATE both copies of the Installation instructions as well as your email you sent them asking for their fix. You will also copy your pictures (sent via email AND physical copies at the meeting...signed/dated, etc). Feel free to high-light the important parts of the 'flatness' rating AND the vapour barrier over concrete. All vinyl products have this written into the installation instructions. I know...I've looked. The GOOD news is you have photos PROVING they did NOT use the vapour barrier. That is your life-raft and your rescue boat all in one. Remember: you aren't doing this for you, per se, you are doing it for the NEXT person they build for. The BUILDER must learn this mistake. S/he must recognize the $0.13/sf they SAVED on the vapour barrier TODAY is always going to cost them MORE tomorrow. Always. They will 'pay' for their oopsa by LEARNING the cost of a REDO! That's the way people learn...if it costs them the ENTIRE PROFIT of the floor because they had to make it right. Be firm...and let the builder LEARN this lesson. Push hard for the redo. If not, ask for the ENTIRE flooring allotment back (cash in hand) and hire someone to do this properly.