What brand prefinished hardwood floors for new build?
dilzy
10 years ago
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gregmills_gw
10 years agoRelated Discussions
prefinished hardwood or engineered hardwood?
Comments (1)I meant we dont want to do the sand/stain thing with "unfinished" not "prefinished"...See MoreOld fashioned hardwood vs new-prefinished ones??
Comments (38)judiegal, your husband is wrong on two counts. First, there are square-edged prefinished hardwoods available. There is one problem with the square edge - you can get something often called "sock-catchers" if the subfloor is not perfectly flat. There are many different depths of bevel available nowadays. We had the microbevel in our previous house to avoid "sock-catchers" and it did not collect debris. I could get the floors completely clean with a microfiber dustmop. (My current house has 107yo heart-pine floors, and I am getting all too familiar with catching debris because it has gaps over 1/4" wide between many boards. Maddening.) It peeves the living daylights out of me to hear people refer to engineered hardwood flooring as not "real" wood. It is just as much "real wood" as solid wood. Call solids solids if that's what you mean. We chose an ashwood engineered flooring for our previous house because NH has massive swings in humidity (we did not have central AC - it would have cost well over $12,000 to install) which can create problems with cupping, buckling, or gapping, and were extremely pleased with it. I cannot TELL you how many dealers and installers tried to bully us into site-finished flooring, even though we could not afford to vacate our house for a week plus, and there was no way we could stay and try to work around the construction and finishing (I would have almost surely been very sick from the stain and finish odors, and let's not even talk about trying to keep the cat and dog hair out of the finish.) Here in New England, the attitude of "we've done it this way for 100 years, we're not going to change now" is rampant! We did not have any problems with the floor delaminating from cat barf, spilled beverages, tracked-in snow, that sort of thing, and the aluminum oxide finish was very durable. The manufacturer, Robbins, did NOT recommend putting any additional finish on after installation. They were nailed down, not glued (the installers checked with Robbins to make sure they could be nailed instead of stapled). The reason why johnatemp thinks she can always spot engineered flooring is because CHEAP engineered floors use a rotary-cut veneer, which looks like plywood; better-quality engineereds have sliced and even quartsawn/riftsawn veneer layers. Another frequent myth about solid wood flooring - it cannot be refinished as many times as people are led to believe. You can only sand them down to the level of the tongue, which is usually less than a third of the thickness of the board. Old (50+ years) floorboards can often be flipped and reused if very carefully pulled up, but that is quite rare in modern flooring. Our floors were warranted for three full refinishings; the veneer layer was a third of the thickness of the board. However, you don't need to completely refinish a hardwood floor unless you have deep gouges or want to change the color. These days, if you want to refresh the finish and remove small scratches and scuffs, you just do something called a screen and recoat. It costs a LOT less than a full refinishing, too. Here are a couple of pictures. The floors are, as I said, from Robbins; style is and color is Tigra....See Moreprefinished hardwood-lying next to 'real' hardwood????
Comments (6)Im confused..... You say you want "real hardwoods" on the stairs and prefinished "real hardwoods" in the bedrooms. It sounds like you're wanting the same "type" wood with the same "type" finish and the same "type" top coat on it. You know that apples-to-apples thing. So why not prefinished for the stairs too? Then it is the same. I doubt you would save any money by having an installer finish the wood for you. But, if for some reason you need one stained and one not then have your installer bring you samples of the stairs that he has match-finished. Or, if you plan to do this yourself- have an actual paint store (not HD or Lowes-- but a paint expert) "match" the prefinished "real hardwoods" for you to sample stain several pieces on. See if it looks "real" enough to you. We did that when having our alder cabinets stained to match the knot colors in our unstained oak floors. BTW....Engineered is real wood with several layers under it that criss-cross (usually 5-7). In some areas of the country people are advised not to put down solid hardwood that might "pop" on cement floors. This is usually the case for those that live in the western states as almost all homes are built on slab. Laminate is basically a photograph. And just like any photograph some are bad and some are great....See MoreOrientation of new hardwood floors over old hardwood floors
Comments (3)Laying the new floor in the same direction as the old floor is not the normal way to go about this. In the building industry, it is more common to see layers that are staggered or "bricked". In other words if layer #1 is laid in a North-South direction, then layer #2 (the top layer) is laid perpendicular to it in an East-West presentation. If you want to run the new flooring in the same direction as the old, you will want to use some underlayment (plywood) over top of the old floor so that you can maintain the "staggered" or "bricked" layering system. That is one way to maintain the North-South presentation. Please work with hardwood flooring professionals who have some experience renovating these old gems. They will have seen what worked....and what didn't. Their experience will be invaluable on a project like yours....See Moregregmills_gw
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