Albert, Donna has given you a great amount of detail about how to get your bulbs to rebloom. I'm not sure what you were asking. I thought you wanted to know what would happen if you did nothing....and so, if you do nothing, they will continue to grow and eventually rebloom on their own schedule as long as the bulb has stored enough nutrients to support the fomation of the scape and blooms within the bulb. Funny, stressed plants tend to bloom as a last procreative resort, which is why the dormancy period (withholding watering and cooler temperatures) is so effective at "forcing" a bloom. Most of us grow the bulbs for their blooms, not for their foliage, so you most likely won't find many answers for "What happens if I don't do anything"...other than what is already in your thread....they will just grow...and they might bloom. Most often the question is "What do I need to do to get my bulbs to bloom again, and as you can see from Donna's reply, there is a schedule to it. Are you fertilizing the plants? A general practice is to use half-strength Miracle Gro at least every other watering. The bulbs typically have to have grown to at least 8 leaves before they are considered blooming size. The bulbs that you bought had been "primed" for blooming, only needing water and warmth to bloom. Some only need warmth, as we see to many bulbs blooming in their boxes at L and HD! Some of us have been growing Hippeastrum/amaryllis for decades, most have been growing them for at least several years...the FAQ is a nice assembly of actual responses from the list over the years. Your Lowe's sale bulbs should be very happy in the room that you have described, growing and growing. The natural blooming cycle in your zones may be later in the spring. If you'll post a general location for where you live, at least what state, others on the map near you (the Sunset zone 2-3 cover many states) may be able to provide additional info depending on what your goal is for the bulbs (reblooming?). K

Wow, thank you! That's exactly the type of info I needed and wasn't finding in all my desperate internet searches! It's hard to say whether I planted them deeper than they were, since they were so pot-bound when I got them. I'm so used to houseplants that I did what I normally do, and just matched the top of the old pot to the new soil line. Should I have buried some of the vine? I'm happy to see that you're in Portland, so you know exactly what I'm dealing with. What do you think I should do in the winter, and when? Am I supposed to do another hard prune at some point every year? I saw your post offering the rosy o'grady and I'm terribly tempted, but I'm still feeling out of my element with outdoor gardening in general. I have the perfect spot for it and would love to have it, but I'd feel so guilty if I didn't do well with it!

What the researchers learned is that the plants roots intertwined (of course) and plants short on P or N will take it from a plants roots that has an over supply. Trees, shrubs even weeds count toward the total of 7. Mycorrhizae will populate certain plants and bring P to the that plant in a symbiotic way then other plants near by benefit from P being near that plant. Below is a long read that may be interesting to those who care about the soil their expensive plants grow in. Hosta collectors are obsessive compulsive given to fits of unreasonable euphoria and unjustified depression which is why Daylily collectors make fun of us. Become as compulsive about the soil as the hosta and you wont have to suffer from fits of anxiety when the sun goes down. It is not hard to enoculate your soil with Mycorrhizae, get a bit of forest Mycorrhizae By Shawn Semones, Ph.D., and Kristi Woods, M.S. Arborists leave behind perhaps the most visible examples of their work  trees. Whether they have been charged with simply caring for existing specimens or asked to plant and grow new trees, everyone who comes in contact with their work experiences their success, or failure, and is quick to make judgments on whether or not theyÂre "doing a good job." Improving the odds of growing and maintaining healthy trees requires selecting the appropriate plants and ensuring that the trees themselves are rooted in the best foundation possible. ThatÂs where tiny allies can make a huge difference. Those tiny allies are mycorrhizal fungi. Mycorrhizae are fungi that form symbiotic and mutually beneficial associations in plants (usually with the roots). They help increase establishment and growth, extend the roots surface area, and provide resistance against stress. The presence of mycorrhizae results in a healthier plant. Benefits Typically, both the plants and mycorrhizal fungi benefit from their association with each other. This functional give-and-take relationship provides a carbohydrate source for the mycorrhizal fungi, which is what they need to flourish. The plant, in turn, benefits from improved nutrient and water uptake, carbon acquisition, phytohormone production, and resistance to pathogens. Relationships Mycorrhizae actually alter the relationship between the treeÂs roots and the soil, increasing the roots ability to absorb phosphorus, a critical nutrient for plant growth and stress physiology. Mycorrhizae are an integral part of plant physiology and ecology. Mycorrhizae form an association with more than 2,500 different plant species, ranging from primitive plants to more evolutionarily advanced species. The nature of the association depends upon the species of plant and fungus involved as well as the environmental conditions. Forming in 98 percent of all land plants, mycorrhizae are found in a variety of ecosystems and plant communities, including wetlands, deserts, deciduous forests, lowland tropical rainforests, high latitude and elevation plant communities, and prairies. About the only terrestrial settings in which they do not occur are extreme arctic environments. Classifications Although mycorrhizae are classified into seven major groups characterized by key morphological features of the root-fungus association, the two most common groups are ectomycorrhizae (colonize outside) and endomycorrhizae (colonize inside). Ectomycorrhizae colonize the outside ofroots and can produce a mushroom or fruiting body above or below ground. Ectomycorrhizae form associations with trees such as pines, birch, oak, walnut, willow and beech. Ectomycorrhizae create a sheath of hyphae (fungal cells), increasing the root surface and volume around the plant root and making it harder for fungal or bacterial diseases to penetrate the plant. With this barrier in place, the plant is less likely to need constant and potentially costly pesticide applications, thereby possibly reducing pesticide use. In addition, plants are more resistant to diseases, both fungal and bacterial, and a variety of pests that seek out less-healthy specimens. Although ectomycorrhizae only form with 10 percent of the worldÂs plants, these plants, primarily trees, are the basis for some of the worldÂs most important industries, including building and construction, furniture manufacturing, and landscaping. On the other hand, arbuscular mycorrhizae, or endomycorrhizae, colonize inside the root. An endomycorrhizal association is characterized by two structures: vesicles and arbuscules. Vesicles are used for the storage of carbon. Arbuscules are where the nutrient exchange between the fungus and plant actually takes place. Endomycorrhizae form beneficial partnerships with 70% of all plant families, including flowering plants, annuals, grasses, and select trees such as maple, magnolia and dogwoods. Endomycorrhizae are critical to plants commonly used in landscaping. Increasing the Odds There are several commercially available endo and ecto mycorrhizal inoculants. These inoculants come in various forms, including dry soluble powders, granular pills, tablets and pre-inoculated soil media. Plants can be inoculated via numerous methods such as soil drenching, liquid injections, granular incorporation and vertical mulching. Applying a mycorrhizal product to established or newly transplanted plants can result in a wide range of benefits to the plantÂs health, such as increased nutrient uptake, increased resistance to insect pests and diseases, reduced fertilizer use, increased accumulation of phosphorus, and increased transplant survival. So whether itÂs a giant oak guarding a tricky approach shot on a golf course, a beautiful maple shading a jogging path at a local park, or a showpiece ornamental attracting the attention of a passerby, these tiny mycorrhizal allies can perform a mighty function  making the trees look good, and making their caretakers look good as well. Increased Nutrient Uptake After the mycorrhizae colonize the roots of a plant, the fungus then grows throughout the surrounding soil and forms an extensive cobweb-like network that explores a larger soil volume than normal roots. These special fungi can increase the ability of the roots to access nutrients in narrow spaces (small areas between soil particles) because they are smaller (1/10 the diameter) compared to roots. The ability of mycorrhizae to enter small areas can increase root absorption of nutrients by sixtyfold in some cases. Some research has even suggested that plants grown near each other are linked by the same mycorrhizae, which can transfer nutrients between the plants. There is also evidence that mycorrhizal roots live longer than plant roots not colonized by mycorrhizae. This increases the total absorbing capacity of the root over its lifetime. Without question, plant health in low nutrient sites is improved by the presence of mycorrhizae. Increased Resistance To Insect Pests And Diseases Ectomycorrhizae form a physical barrier around the plant root, making it harder for fungal or bacterial diseases to penetrate and harm the plant. If overall plant health is increased, the plant is less likely to succumb to diseases (fungal or bacterial) and pests. A dense layer of mycorrhizal cells usually covers ectomycorrhizal roots and effectively increases the surface area of the root. Ectomycorrhizae also have antibiotic properties, which can reduce the ability of a harmful fungal disease to attack a plant. Reduced Fertilizer Use Trees and plants with a flourishing mycorrhizal colony are significantly more effective at extracting nutrients from the soil. That increased efficiency means less frequent and less heavy applications of fertilizers, resulting in savings of both money and time. Mycorrhizae provide faster movement of phosphorus to the roots by changing the root zone, thereby making the roots more able to accept phosphorus and decreasing the amount of phosphorus needed in order for it to diffuse into the root cells. Essentially, mycorrhizae mobilize phosphorus in the soil that was previously unavailable. By stimulating growth, phosphorus helps promote flowering and the maturing of fruit. With the enhanced nutrient uptake, mycorrhizae encourage flowers to grow more quickly and efficiently, extending the growing season or providing fruiting trees with earlier yields. An increased growth rate of the root and shoot means plants grow larger, with healthier root zones. Increased Transplant Survival Plants that are colonized by ectomycorrhizae produce larger, more extensive root systems. This highly developed root system greatly reduces drought stress on the plant since it absorbs moisture more effectively. Inoculated plants also produce new root structures called "short roots." The increased surface area provided by the ectomycorrhizae and the improved root system of inoculated plants can result in an increase in total root surface area up to 18 times that of an uninoculated plant. Shawn Semones is the Research and Development group leader for Novozymes/Roots Plant Care Group. He has been with the group since 1999 when he started as a senior research scientist. Semones has a Ph.D. in biology from Virginia Tech with a major emphasis in plant stress physiology and mycology. Kristi Woods joined Novozymes/Roots Plant Care Group in 2002 as a research associate. She has a M.S. in biology from Virginia Tech with experience in molecular plant biology and plant physiology.

We're in a similar situation as oruboris was in last year - we need to move into the house next month and would like to get a conventional 30-yr mortgage. The finish house appraises for twice the loan we need. Things unfinished will be carpet in the two upstairs bedrooms; countertop, sink, and faucet won't be installed in the upstairs kitchenette, and base molding won't be complete upstairs. For the downstairs - no crown or base molding, kitchen cabinets won't be complete, and most interior doors will not be installed. Oh, and the closets will not have the hanging rods & shelves. So, I called my bank last week to see which of these items we need to focus on after we move in, in order to get a loan. I was told that the house has to be 100% complete - every last piece of crown molding has to be in. The direct quote I got was, "anything that would increase the appraisal has to be done". I see threads all the time where people move into a partially completed house - what sort of loans are they getting? Or is this a result of the housing crisis? Anyways, I will be talking with another bank next week, and we still have the option of converting our construction loan to a 20-year loan at a not-great-rate. Just wondering how other people handled this situation.