Chandra, I've never used their products, never have and never will. Any company that does not list their product ingredients on their label and/or their website doesn't get a dollar of my money. I want to know what I am putting into or onto the soil where we grow our plants. Any tomato plant fed any decent fertilizer is likely to give significantly higher yields than a plant that is not fertilized, assuming the plants receive adequare sunshine and moisture. So their claim of 150% better production or more tomatoes or bigger tomatoes or whatever else they say is meaningless and is just ad hype. Any good fertilizer, applied properly, can give you similar results, and most likely for a much lower cost. I believe the reason they don't list their ingredients is because they want people to think there is something extra-special in their products so they'll be willing to buy them and to pay their prices, which seem high to me. Is there something extra-special in their products? My personal opinion is no, there is not anything there that you can't get in other organic fertilizers. Caveat emptor. Before I buy from a company that is new to me, I check their reviews at the popular watchdog site often used by gardeners. I can't name that website here because it is a competing website and you aren't supposed to mention it or link it here. (E-mail me if you don't know the name of that site and I'll tell you.) If a company has a lot of negative reviews, I avoid it and search for a company that sells a similar product but that gets better reviews. Larry, Thank you. You are so very kind. If eating real bacon is a sin, I'm headed straight for a very bad place! I love bacon. I'd eat bacon ice cream if they made it. (And, yes, I bet somebody does make bacon ice cream) Keith, You are so, so bad! lol I bet Peg has her hands full trying to keep you in line. Busy1, You win the "First BLT" prize! I can imagine it took a bunch of Tiny Tims to make one sandwich. Wasn't it yummy? Nothing says "spring" like the first delicious BLT with your own home-grown tomatoes. I don't know how you'll ever get caught up on planting with all the moisture now in your ground, but I'm sure you'll find a way. It is still too wet to plant anything else here, but not too wet for the weeds to grow, so I'll spend my afternoon pulling weeds. Thank you for your kind words. I hope you know that I appreciate you so much. Diane, I wish you'd been here to have a sandwich with us. I'm excited you're getting ready to plant. You know, once the plants are in the ground, they will grow like weeds. Your plants will be catching up with ours in no time at all. I really believe that. Erod, If I can't eat tomatoes from April through December, then (alas! woe is me!) life just isn't worth living. Well, that's a slight exaggeration, but only a very slight one. Some people here call me the Tomato Queen, but really I am the Mulch Queen. I mulch, mulch, mulch, mulch, mulch. I add mulch to at least one raised bed every week, sometimes every day. I mulch my paths. I mulch my flower beds. I mulch the 'pathways' in my dogs' yard so that they are walking on mulch instead of mud, since three of them get to come inside and sleep in the house at night. (The other three sleep in the garage.) I mulch my the soil surface in all my containers of plants. (They get bark mulch for aesthetic reasons.) I mulch my fruit trees when I have enough mulch to do so, and I mulch my shrub beds. If a dog or cat lies down in a shrub bed or flower bed and doesn't move while I'm mulching, I mulch them. (That does tend to make them get up and move!) When I am able to do so, I mulch the ground outside the perimeter of my garden fence to help keep down the grass and weeds so they won't sneak through the fence and into my garden. Last year, I didn't do a very good job of mulching around the perimeter, so I'm going to try harder to do a better job of that this year. Usually I run out of mulch inside the garden and don't have any for the perimeter fence. However, thanks to the bales of hay that were a very lovely gift from our friends, Jesse and Joyce, I'll have plenty of mulch this year. Mulch keeps the soil cooler which is very important once the temperatures are cranking up high. I think mulch is one reason I get high yields from my peppers and tomatoes. Mulch conserves moisture which also helps the plants. Mulches reduces the number of weeds. Most important in terms of having healthy tomato plants and good yields, mulch reduces soil splash which reduces disease. I start out with 2" of mulch on my beds, then add more continually. My goal is to have mulch 4-6" deep on all my tomato beds by mid-June. You don't want to mulch too heavily when the soil is still cold or cool because you want the soil to warm up to a certain extent. That's why I start out with a little mulch and then keep adding more as the ground warms up more. Some beds don't get as much mulch as the tomatoes. Onions, for example, do better if they are able to sort of pop up out of the ground as they bulb up. If they are able to do that, they seem to produce better bulbs than those planted or mulched so deeply that they cannot "pop up". So, I have mulch in the two onion beds, but it is on the soil between the plants and not necessarily over the bulbing part of the plant, if that makes sense. I would never, ever attempt to grow without mulching. Mulch is helpful in so many ways. Best of all, as mulch decomposes it turns into compost. Compost enriches the soil. Enriched soil grows better, healthier plants that produce higher yields. I give compost and mulch a great deal of credit for the very high yields I get in my veggie garden. It may seem like I'm always weeding (it is a very large garden!), but without the mulch, I'd likely spend 10 times as much time weeding the garden as I do now. Mulch also reduces erosion which is ultra-important to me because my gardens slopes downhill from west to east and from south to north. When I first started gardening here, my local rancher friend, Fred, who is a rancher, farmer and gardener himself, gave me tons (I mean literally tons) of hay in big round bales. I mulched heavily with it and it helped get me off to a great start here. I also use chopped/shredded autumn leaves that I collect and bag up in the fall, grass clippings from our own property, and hay or straw but ONLY from safe sources and ONLY after I test it for herbicide residue. I currently have 197 bales of hay undergoing herbicide testing so I can be sure it is safe before I use it. I used to have a compost pile far from my garden (it is still there and I still use it to some extent) but that means continually hauling stuff out to the pile, then after it has decomposed, I have to haul the compost back to the garden. For me, it is so much easier to pile up organic matter as mulch in my garden beds, pathways, and around the edges of my garden and let it decompose right there. In the spring, the decomposed mulch from the previous season is mixed into the beds as I plant. Then, after a bed is planted, I scoop up all the decomposed mulch from the pathways adjacent to that bed, using a compost scoop and put it right there on the newly-planted beds, and that's the start of the new season's mulch. Then I lay down cardboard in the pathways, and start layering on mulch. Otherwise, my pathways are just beds of weeds. So, my recommendation is to mulch like crazy, but not just around the plants but also in your paths. In addition to doing some weeding, I have two rows of tomatoes that need more mulch today, and I have a big pile of grass clippings with which to mulch them. It seems like all I do in May and June is mulch and pull weeds, but both are important to getting good yields. Dawn

You've gotten some good info. I'm not sure if you want the hand held in place of the fixed wall shower head, or in addition to it. So I'll try to describe both. Part One, you just want the handheld on a sliding bar: If you just want the hand held and don't want the shower head that came with the D500058, then you need the Danze D469058 wall outlet. You'll use a short brass nipple to attach the wall outlet to the copper fitting inside the wall. The same type of copper fitting that a typical shower arm would get threaded on to. The nipples are only $1-$2 at any box store. You can buy several of differing lengths (1-1/2" to 2" generally), use the one that fits, and return the others. The length needed depends on how deep the drop-ear fitting is buried in the wall plus how thick your tile backer board and tile are. Brass nipple: 1/2" Drop-ear fitting: Your copper tubing get soldered into the "smooth" opening, the shower arm of the shower head or your brass nipple for the wall outlet get threaded into the threaded end. Use teflon tape of teflon pipe dope on all threaded joints. When you plumb it, have one port from your supply valve go to the tub spout, the other port that would normally feed the shower head will instead be plumbed to the Danze wall outlet. Screw one end of the handheld hose to the wall outlet. Attach the other end of the hose to the handheld. Mount the wall bar on the wall. Attach the handheld to the wall bar. Part two, you want the handheld in addition to the fixed shower head on the wall: You'll still need the Danze D469058 wall outlet. You'll also need a diverter valve. I took a quick look at Danze's offering and only see a 4-port diverter valve. All you actually need is a 3-port valve, but a 4-port can still work and allows you to stay in the Danze family. The Danze 4-port is actually designed to have one if its ports capped if you don't need all three outlet ports, the cap is even supplied with the valve, so they make it easy. If you want to go with a 3-port diverter, pick anything you like. I'll stick with Danze for the description: You'll need the Danze D130000BT diverter valve and the Danze D560858T Parma trim kit to go with it. The installation instructions that come with the diverter valve are pretty self explanatory. However... Your hot and cold water supplies will feed the valve that came with the 500058 kit. That valve has two outlet port. One will go to the tub spout, the other now goes to the inlet of the diverter valve. You'll use the supplied cap to cap one of the three outlet ports on the diverter. One of the uncapped ports will go to the fixed shower head. The other port will go to the Danze wall outlet which in turn will feed the handheld. The Danze 4-port diverter affords you the opportunity to feed just the handheld, just the fixed shower head, or both simultaneously.

It's ok. A little over a year ago, we bought a white painted desk for our 3rd grader and when my DH was putting it together, he made me promise never to buy furniture with those little frisbee shaped disks of wood used in key places to keep it together. We were sure the desk would not survive the move we knew we'd be making in a year or so. It did, and isnt' even wobbling, so it ended up being pretty sturdy. I just bought two of their white "Cameron" bookcases. The two shelf one I was able to get upstairs and put together myself in about an hour. It looks fine, but the back piece is really thin and flimsy. There were no bisquited pieces; only screws (that had to go in with the provided hex key - total pain!). You have to be careful about making sure everything is aligned and inserted properly b/c the directions leave some details up to you to figure out (I learned after it was all standing upright and almost about to fully tighten the screws, that the top shelf was upside down. The only way to tell was that the tiny starter screw holes were showing on the thin back piece where the back piece is supposed to be screwed into the backs of the shelves.) Someone else might have thought, "Piece of junk, they left holes in the back piece for no reason!" Because the instructions said nothing about it. Anyway, it was painless enough that I just tonight brought home the backordered 4 shelf bookcase. I could barely get it int he door, so won't be able to put it together myself, unless I can find a strong friend to help get it upstairs. (DH is away this week.) For my kids new beds, I'm looking hard at the Young American collection by Stanley. The prices are comparable to PBK, and I think/hope the quality is much better. Go to their website and read all about their safety quality. Here is a link that might be useful: Stanley Quality Furniture Cues

Eh, bins are finally coming into my house. Didn't have the urge to organize before purging as there was so much crap. I did the work, my house has half the number of storage furniture and drawers it did before I started. Now I'm making things easier to access and bins and baskets are helpful. I can reach the front edge of a 6.5' shelf and see to the back of the bottom shelves of my kitchen cabinets. Without bins stuff got lost. Christmas is finally in 6 small bins for safety after living in 3 heavy tattered boxes for years. Without bins the comforter and blankets I have to keep so my guests don't whine about being cold are a horrible mess on the linen closet shelf. I do shop the stash. Any box, basket or jar in reasonably good shape is kept and I use them rather than buy new stuff if possible. And my donation box is full. Time to get that stuff out of the house.