What you want now is a cover crop that will grow some in cool weather, stay in place over the winter and grow a bit more next spring, something that will help hold your soil in place during the winter. That means knowing a bit about which cover crops will do that. Oats are seeded in the spring to grow during the summer, they need warm weather and are killed by frost. Buckwheat is the same. Wheat maybe, depending on which wheat seed you get. Many of the wheats have been genetically modified and may not be something you would want, and that seed is fairly expensive which is why that is seldom listed on Cover Crop lists. Most clovers prefer to be spring seeded so the have time to get established before winter sets in. Fava beans, and Austrian Peas, like to grow in cooler weather, but are killed by really cold weather so only dead plants would be left on the soil during the winter. Winter, Field, Cereal Rye, "Secale cereale", is one grain that germinates well in cooler soils, grows 4 to 6 inches tall, and then stops growing until the soil warms up. This helps hold your soil in place if snow cover is insufficient to keep surface soil from blowing, eroding, away. This is one of the few grains, or cover crops, that will stay alive, along with Winter Wheat, and will actually provide cover, the reason you plant a cover crop, for your soil.

I planned on SW Collonade Grey for the walls/ceiling, a “custom” blend walnut stain on my red oak floors and the same stain on the Alder beams above. Mantel will be the same walnut stain too. Sounds lime a lot of stain, but the kitchen is tile floor with white oak cabinets. What stage is your build - can finish selections be changed at this point? If so, I would recommend a consulation with Maria Killam (https://www.mariakillam.com) to ensure your finishes will be cohesive and provide the proper background for the overall look and feel you want to acheive in your new home. Your fireplace is fine, but will be a bossy element to work with (start reading Maria's blog posts and you'll see what I mean).

Quite the thread. Unfortunately some important basic information seems to have been overlooked. I) Gypsum board has not been allowed in wet areas since 2006. 2) Schluter Kerdi membrane is not recommended over moisture resistant dry wall due to the waxy finish. They are ok with regular drywall. 3) Adhering membrane to taping compound and paint. Big no no. 4) Most Important - Drywall manufacturers do not want their products in a wet area period. USG makes drywall and a waterproof membrane far superior to Schluter Kerdi and they will not allow it installed over drywall in a wet area. Schluter and others say it's Ok. (Actually they are only saying they can adhere to it.) Funny how they think they can over ride what another product manufacturer states their products limitations are and consider it a acceptable substrate. What is getting overlooked here is possible condensation in the wall cavity itself. This can destroy the gypsum board from behind where cement board or a foam panel would not be affected. Perhaps a drip in the control valve, poor seal on the gasket or elsewhere will break that gypsum board down. Now you have no recourse as Schluter and others will say the shower system worked fine it's the wall which it is attached to that failed. mca330 I do hope none of these issues will occur on your project and all goes well. There are some such as myself that would have walked away or insisted all manufacturer instructions and proper methods involved in the shower assembly were followed. Best

Yes to removing or covering the hearth tile. If we don't need it, we could put the hardwood there when that work is done. The fireplace has black metal that doesn't look finished if it's left exposed. Maybe a new layer of wall board coming in further with metal stripping around the opening? Thank you!