"You may be able to sand down to unstained wood and re-seal." The problem that usually shows up is that the urine can penetrate at the joints between the strips of floor, and you simply cannot 'sand out' enough to remove the staining that came in from the edge of the strips. If it is a small area you can remove strips and replace them. If the floor is old look at closets fr a ready source of matching wood. The new wood in the closet will not show as badly

If you do go in that direction regardless of who you buy it from, get some moisture readings of the actual product. I know LL has been in Colorado for awhile, but considering the amount of business they do, one never knows if they're sending product that fits your climate. It could be isolated, but one never knows. One wrong move and... By way of explanation, a product that has a higher moisture content may do exactly what jfc mentions. It's been known to happen even with all the precautions taken. Personally I know you'll find a better product elsewhere. One that has a better customer support staff and doesn't leave you hanging if there are problems. I'd try a local and more established dealer. Price is always attractive until problems start. Ken Fisher

As jfcwood suggests, having a better look at the floor will determine what is possible. If you have a floor vent, go ahead and lift that up to see if you have MORE than 3mm of wood above the tongue (3mm = 1/8"). If there is then you have a CHANCE at paint removal turning into a finished hardwood. Then the question becomes how old is the house? Is it *possible the paint has LEAD in it? Paint was allowed to have a substantial lead content right into the late 1970's. It looks like something was covering the paint - was it carpet? That's possibly why the paint looks in good shape. In essence, someone painted this floor for a reason. It is possible that reason was simply to save money (we see it all the time on Houzz), but it is HIGHLY POSSIBLE that paint was the only option - because they were OUT of options. So...before you set yourself up to fail, have a strong look at what is going on with the WOOD. Check the amount above the tongue. Start there. It is homeowner friendly so long as you can find a floor register. Get your tape measure out...and write down what you find. If you have MORE than 3mm above the tongue you call in a hardwood flooring professional to give a price.

The acclimation you've been recommended to use is generally how we've done floors forever EXCEPT when using wider planks. As was noted above, have the plywood and wood checked. If they're too far apart the area can be dehumidified to bring the plywood moisture down and/or the wood will add moisture if it's particularly dry. Make sure the contractor is putting a vapor/moisture barrier (not retarder) between the concrete and the plywood. I don't recommend any barrier between the wood and plywood. Some pros have been burned using (probably cheap) water based finishes and refuse to use anything other than oil based. Others think you should use only the newest technology finishes and exclusively use water based. We use both. With a stained, hand-scraped White Oak, I would choose oil based polyurethane. No water based finish compares to the durability of oil modified. Considering the cost, it's a no-brainer unless you have special circumstances. As to staples vs. nails, we've used both and seen little difference in the performance. My preference would be for nails but the industry seems to have moved more toward staples.