What is the proper use of foil-shiny shine-dull side?
16 years ago
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- 16 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
- 16 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
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Does Buffing Make Wood floors Shine w/o putting more Poly on?
Comments (10)woodfloorpro, thanks for the response. Sorry, I lost track, trying to deal with this, BUT I did read your response, which helped. We have a different floor guy coming to fix it. He looked at it, and said what you said, that he would do a light sanding/screening, to take down the bumps, and then he would buff it, and then put a coat of poly. QUESTION: The 4 coats were done with Parks Pro Finisher, oil-based (I think by Rustoleum). I don't know what this guy will be using. I talked to a different hardwood guy who said this coat should be Bona. The 4 coats that are on the floor now look very pretty,with a clear look. (It's semi-gloss). You do have to look close, when light hits it, to see all the bumps. I have been reading in "Contractor talk", online to use Bona as a last coat. Does that matter if Pro Finisher is used, or another kind? He's coming to start tomorrow afternoon. Another question: is after this is done, is this one addition coat enough, because all the bumps have to be sanded down?...See MoreAny way to bring down shine on repair patch?
Comments (4)Do not use steel!! What sheen and what type of finish did the use? If the finish the whole floor with a satin its possible the repair could have been used with a different batch of finish. It sounds weird but I've seen some finishes especially with satins that will be slightly off from one batch to the next from the manufacture. All finishes require the get mixed very well before being applied. It could be the didn't mix the finish for the repair well enough or the could have used a different sheen. Like semi-gloss. But its all just speculation until I get more answers To fix you could try getting the right sheen and re apply the finish. Best case scenario but also a hassle would be to recoat the entire area, referred to as a buff n coat. That way everything will have a consistent sheen....See MoreBest black paint (+ shine level) in black granite tile bathroom?
Comments (5)Pittsburgh Paints Black Magic 518-7 mixed in their Accent Colors which only comes in Interior Matte Finish. I've used this paint in bathrooms several times. It is matte and it is a good fit for a bathroom. Truly, one of the very best options for black walls. Figuring out something with a black from Ben Moore in Aura would be second choice. ICI, now Azko-Nobel, has one of the truest blackest blacks called Dark Secret. Not sure what they're doing with their uber deep bases theses days - have to check it out at the store. I think it was Texashottie here on the forum (forget the name exactly) that ended up going with Dark Secret in her dining room. Her pix were fab. Be aware that this thing called water whitening can happen with all brands and grades - it's especially noticeable with super dark colors. Due to moisture, white streaks will develop, like the paint is running, and then disappear. They usually go away completely on their own over time. One day it just strikes you that it's gone. It's not surfacant leaching. It's different and again it should go away on it's own....See MoreThe baking soda and aluminum foil method of removing silver tarnish
Comments (21)I have been a metalsmith since 1988. It's not a "job", I don't work for someone else. I have an MFA in Jewelry and Metals, earned in 2006. As part of my training we studied forging, welding, casting and fabrication from sheet metal: in copper, brass, bronze, nickel, and silver. Including blacksmithing in iron. NO PIECE was considered complete until a proper PATINA was created. It is an important part of the finishing process, whether through application of chemicals from a bottle, liver of sulphur, fuming with ammonia, etc. Though it it IS an important part of the work, it is still an APPLIED patina. Here is the definitive book on the subject, which I and every other metals student studied : https://www.amazon.com/Colouring-Bronzing-Patination-Metals/dp/0823007626 Oxidation is nothing more than a chemical reaction between the molecules in the metal and compounds in the air (as in your outdoor bronze example) or compounds applied, such as the sulphur released by a liver of sulphur solution. A microscopic layer forms which is technically an alloy of the metal and the chemical, such as silver sulphide. You APPLY a patina chemical. OXIDATION is the result. Calling it "artificial" ...well: it's ALL artificial. I don't know of a single sculptor or jeweler today who lets their pieces color naturally in the air. It is because you cannot control the result that way. Go to an art fair like the Des Moines Art Festival (not a craft fair with "yard art") and talk to some modern day bronze sculptors. Ask them if they let their pieces color naturally. From ancient times through the Renaissance to the present day: sculptors have colored their metals. I have seen old recipes calling for burying the piece in sawdust with urine added; akin to the ammonia fuming of today. A raw bronze is not a pretty thing. There is no contrast, no richness of the surface. No Renaissance sculptor would have thought of exhibiting one. Unless coated with lacquer, all patinas are "living" surfaces. They will continue to react and the color change with time: sometimes looking better with age, sometimes not; with the original metal gradually being eroded/penetrated by the alloy. Hence many outdoor bronzes in Italy (where acid rain and air pollition in general is a problem), have been removed indoors to controlled conditions, and copies placed outdoors. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horses_of_Saint_Mark...See More- 16 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
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