Yes, you can use different colored grout for the floor, but as I said in the other thread, the Platinum would work well for the hex, as well. The only other color I'd personally consider would be the Delorean Grey. Which ever one you use, though, you want to use sanded grout on that hex tile.

Thanks, all. Prickly and linelle: Very perspicacious of you! I should have explained this. The tiles ARE indeed a bit different. I used the tiles that I liked least in the locations that will go under cabinets. I also did my test-grouting on areas that go under the cabs. Ergo, the right-hand (grouted) side has less vibrant tiles, with lighter reds and darker tans. This effect is more dramatic in other areas of the kitchen; I chose the "least bad" area to show. I believe I got all the grout haze off. Thanks, annsch and breezy. I am so bad at these things that it is helpful to have them discussed! The concept of the red-and-white checkerboard was meant as a subtle nod towards vintage kitchens in general, with Marmoleum/Linoleum floors in mind in particular. One realization I had since asking this question on this thread was that a grout that blends in likely comes closer to this look (since Marmoleum didn't have any grout lines to delineate the checkerboard). If you look at the picture above, you could imagine the right-hand side was marmoleum, but you couldn't imagine the left-hand one was.

woot! thanks - was imagining I'd have to wait 3 days for it to fully dry or something along those lines:)

I was saying the darkest color in your tile should be used for your grout, error on the side of darkness not light. I didn't mean that black would work for you, but because of shading in cracks some of mine looks almost black. When you stain the wood, the stained area is darkest in the cracks. Mix a little grout with water and let it dry before you do the project, some grouts dry much lighter.