I would stake it and watch it if it doesnt develope a branched structure or if the rest stays way behind and it becomes an odd lone wolf and looks strange...well you might want to consider triming it unless you like that look..It's hard to tell w/o a pic ...I have done both...but without seeing it is hard ..I feel it is most always best to leave as is...and I would definitly wait a while..OH good luck posting pics here ;>) David

I ended up talking to a couple of other fabricators who HAVE worked with Palomino, and they let me know that they aren't sure anyone would be able to get the curve better. If you work it too much, you run the possibility of breaking off sections do to the veining. I haven't noticed over the past week anyway. I also wanted to update this thread for sealer purposes. This stone took SIX (6) applications of Miracle 511 Porous Plus over 3 days in order for water to remain on the top. The look of the stone is absolutely unchanged from before, but I am now comfortable with stain protection. This stone is EXTREMELY POROUS. This stone is also extremely scratch resistant, I can't believe how tough it is. Anyway, 2 more pictures of the stone. And thanks for the replies and comforting words!

I replied over on the computer help forum about it. there are a couple in this same category. The problem is you have to pay them $10 per month as a "tech support" fee which really adds up since you still have to pay for your internet connection and you have to have a wireless router for the wireless in the unit to get a connection from what I understand. Plus I really do not know how they can legally get away with selling this product with linux on it with out breaking the GNU public license agreement. Personally I would just get them a low price pc wipe it clean and install one of the light free linux distros on it and let them use that. Pretty much the same thing and the cost would be much less. the price of the unit for what it is spec wise is ridiculous.

Regarding the question of laying out the curve, it would be good to create an accurate, to-scale, measured drawing of exactly the curve you wish to construct. Divide the curve in the drawing into uniform segments -- for example, every 5'. Also, draw a straight line that connects both ends of the curve to each other. Using a scale that corresponds with the plan, at every uniform mark along the path of the curve, precisely measure the distance of the curve from the straight line and record this on the plan. You'll be laying out the same drawing on the site. Mark out the end points of the curve with stakes driven into the ground. Run a taught string between the end stakes of the curve, connecting them the same as the line on the plan. While many people use a hose to lay out construction because most people have one and it kind of works, it has a lot of drawbacks. My favorite tool for marking out landscape features on the ground, both at the brainstorming visualization and in the construction preparation level, is the marking paint wand. The way to use it is to walk along spraying a paint line on the ground as you go. In this case visualize the general path of your curve. At intervals along that path, mark short paint lines across it at the same uniform interval (every 5'?) which you divided it into on the plan. At each interval plot out the same distance from the string line that you measured at the corresponding location on the plan and create a dot paint mark at the cross line that you made previously. Once you have plotted all the dots that represent the curve, use the marking to spray a curved, DASHED line connecting the dots. At this point, step back and observe the curve from different viewpoints and make sure that you are satisfied with it. This is the opportunity to make adjustments in your plan if you think the curve is not right. Once you are satisfied with it, paint over the dashed line with a solid line. This represents the limit of the actual field of paving slabs. As you can imagine, the line will be destroyed by the construction process. You'll need to make a second line at a measured distance offset from it that is out side the field of work so that you can keep a reference line for the curve. You could also pound stakes into the ground at close intervals if you want to mark the reference line that way. When you build the paved area, make it as perfect as you can, but there may be imperfections. If you can tell there is an error, others will see it, too. If you can't tell, others probably won't be able to tell either. You may not want to bother fixing small imperfections that no one will notice. If it looks perfect, it IS perfect! No one is going to study it with a micrometer. (Disregard that my drawing is not perfect. I didn't measure anything.) In regard to question 2, I'm not quite sure what you're asking. You should also say what specific material you are using as "paving slab" could be any wide ranging number of materials that might each require different installation methods and techniques.