wcgypsy, to post photos, I use Photobucket. I upload my photos there. Then, I just click on the html coding, and it automatically copies that html code to the Windows clipboard. Then, in your message response, just right click and select "Paste", and all that coding just gets pasted right into your message. And your photo will appear. You can continue copying and pasting each photo's html code right into your message (I press Enter between each photo, so the coding has a line space between each html photo code). Really easy, actually! And thanks for all the suggestions. Trying to find the least labor-intensive project possible, since my huggy will not be overly pleased with a big construction project :-) So, I'm trying to find easy but sturdy alternatives. If I can swing the Sunglo, I may go that way. I am afraid the Harbor Freight greenhouse may be a bit too flimsy for our Santa Anas that can come charging down the canyons. If I can't afford the Sunglo, I'll probably go with the Snap & Grow. I think by the time I get all the extra doo dads for the Snap & Grow, it won't be all that much less expensive than the Sunglo, which is a very high quality greenhouse, up there with a Riga. Patty S.

There is an easy way. It's very simple, although it may sound complicated at first. I'll give you an example using some assumed measurements for your situation, and you can adjust to what you actually have. You will need a facing board whose width is just a little more than the greatest distance between the bottom of the beam and the ceiling, at whatever point that occurs. Let's say that the distance from the bottom of the beam to the ceiling is 6" at its greatest point (presumably one of the ends). Mark a distance on your board of, say, 6-1/4" from its bottom edge (so that, when you are done cutting, the facing board will give you some wiggle room by hanging down about 1/4" below the bottom of the beam). Then put the board in place so it butts up against the low center point, plumb it horizontal with your level, and fix it in place (2 nails?). Then, get out a drafting compass (you know, those things you use to draw circles on paper). Set the distance between the points of the compass to the distance between the ceiling and the pencil mark you made. In the next step, make sure that the distance you set the compass points to doesn't change as you are working with it. Then, simply run the compass point along the ceiling and the pencil point along the board, from one end to the other. The pencil will mark a line on the board that exactly conforms to any deviations in the ceiling. Take the board down, cut along the marked line with a saber saw, and you're ready to put it in place. If you've been able to follow my instructions, you will have a board that conforms to the irregular ceiling and hangs down about 1/4" lower than the beam at all points. Do the same thing for the other side of the beam. Then nail a third piece across the bottom and it's a wrap! If you have any slight gaps when you're done at the ceiling line, you can put a small piece of trim in place that will hide them. Hope that's clear. The link below (illustration 5) shows how to use a compass to scribe an irregular surface in a different application, but, hopefully, this may help your understanding of the technique. Let me know if you need anything clarified. Here is a link that might be useful: Scribing with a compass

The reason i brought up geodesic is that it relates though you are scribing to angles vs. radius. Room for a lazy susan all depends on the span of the radius and how sharp the radius'd wall is. From the widest of the center point to the ends depends on this radius and will determine what you can and cant get in there as well as location.If you could provide more details with maesurements, it can be scaled out to see what would work for you.

Well, maybe I exaggerated a "little" there. I do use the kitchen also, & sometimes we team up. But I've learned a whole lot from this one thread. Next kitchen will have a prep sink in the island whether he wants one or not. Will also have deeper counters on other cabinets. I have no idea why I didn't think to have that done anyway. There was plenty of room to move the lower cabinets out at least 2 inches, probably 3. It just never occurred to me. Makes great sense. This won't be our last kitchen. It's probably our 2nd to last, though. I don't believe in buying turn-key houses any more than I believe in driving new cars off the lot. Neither of us do. Never have. We've helped friends build houses from scratch, but we've never done it. It is a possibility that our final house (the one we live in the rest of our lives) might be one we build, but I doubt it. We simply love finding diamonds in the rough, with good bones & all that "character" stuff going on, ya know? Then making it our own. Thank you ALL for the illuminating advice & ideas. I was going to post some ideas for the overhang support here per Joseph Corlett, but think I need to begin a new thread for that. So, I just went and did it here: http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/3354407/m=23/15-granite-counter-overhang-supports. Thanks again, friends.