There is an easy way. It's very simple, although it may sound complicated at first. I'll give you an example using some assumed measurements for your situation, and you can adjust to what you actually have. You will need a facing board whose width is just a little more than the greatest distance between the bottom of the beam and the ceiling, at whatever point that occurs. Let's say that the distance from the bottom of the beam to the ceiling is 6" at its greatest point (presumably one of the ends). Mark a distance on your board of, say, 6-1/4" from its bottom edge (so that, when you are done cutting, the facing board will give you some wiggle room by hanging down about 1/4" below the bottom of the beam). Then put the board in place so it butts up against the low center point, plumb it horizontal with your level, and fix it in place (2 nails?). Then, get out a drafting compass (you know, those things you use to draw circles on paper). Set the distance between the points of the compass to the distance between the ceiling and the pencil mark you made. In the next step, make sure that the distance you set the compass points to doesn't change as you are working with it. Then, simply run the compass point along the ceiling and the pencil point along the board, from one end to the other. The pencil will mark a line on the board that exactly conforms to any deviations in the ceiling. Take the board down, cut along the marked line with a saber saw, and you're ready to put it in place. If you've been able to follow my instructions, you will have a board that conforms to the irregular ceiling and hangs down about 1/4" lower than the beam at all points. Do the same thing for the other side of the beam. Then nail a third piece across the bottom and it's a wrap! If you have any slight gaps when you're done at the ceiling line, you can put a small piece of trim in place that will hide them. Hope that's clear. The link below (illustration 5) shows how to use a compass to scribe an irregular surface in a different application, but, hopefully, this may help your understanding of the technique. Let me know if you need anything clarified. Here is a link that might be useful: Scribing with a compass

Hey there COUNTRY! Long time, eh? EASY to make...cut out 5 in. squares and sew (I hand sew with running stitch while watching tv) 3 sides. Turn right side out and stuff with a nylon (one square will hold a nylon from knee to toe - I kinda fold it and fit it into the 'bag' or square. Then I tack it with embroider floss in the center to hold it there. Then I whipstitch the open end and have one square done. Then layout all your squares and pin together in a row...sew one to the other and then sew the rows together. I haven't sewn the squares together yet and will probably do that on machine as well as the rows. It is reversible this way, too. No need to back or border it. Washable/Dryable. Salvaging fabrics from things you know or like would be really special! I did order most of mine on ebay 'precision cut' quilt squares. I like 5 in. -- they take less stuffing than larger squares and easier to sew and handle than the smaller ones. I didn't want any duplicate patterns in mine, but I do have a few matches. Charm quilts can have matches for all the patterns EXCEPT for one square that is the only one of its kind OR all different squares with only one that has a match. Also, they have I SPY squares that have interesting things in them - great for kids quilts. Jannie...GO FOR IT...it is EASY! (and FUN!) Nice talking to ya all...nola_anne

The reason i brought up geodesic is that it relates though you are scribing to angles vs. radius. Room for a lazy susan all depends on the span of the radius and how sharp the radius'd wall is. From the widest of the center point to the ends depends on this radius and will determine what you can and cant get in there as well as location.If you could provide more details with maesurements, it can be scaled out to see what would work for you.

rococogurl, thank you for the details! The largest item we have at the moment is a 12" chef pan. We plan to add a 14" wok, which will fit in the sink. :) Yes to the sink grid! Husband thinks the stainless steel version looks like dental braces, LOL. But he is convinced that we need to get one (probably the white version) -- the sales person told him that the grid not only protects everything, but also makes washing much easier as the food chunks / etc will just fall below the grid while the clean items stay above the grid.