skip to main content

crotch seam curves

18 years ago

Hi Folks

Trousers (ok Pants) - this is driving me potty. Like I had far to go ;-P

The thing I'm tring to figure out is how the shape of the curve at the base of crotch seam (mainly on the back) is related to the ease needed in the trousers. And the size of persons backside!

I have Vogue 2836, Gents suit, for comparison, the curve is shallow and quite long and pointed towards the inseam. The pattern drafting books I have all show the back as having a sharper curve, but also a very deep seat angle (amount the Centre Back deviates from Vertical).

Does a long straight fork (technical name for the sticky out bit) give more room for walking? Does a scooped out curve (more circular) leave more room for er, gents bits?

So is there some way of understanding this?

Has anyone bought David Page Coffin's CD Book on the subject?

Or the one by Kenneth D King?

How about Pants for Real People, by Palmer/Pletsch?

Thanks,

AJ

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (2)

costumecarol
18 years ago
I have drafted trou for both men and women. I use the Helen Joseph Armstrong book, which results in a more U-shaped crotch curve than the Big Four (really the big two, since McCalls has absorbed butterick and Vogue.) In my experience, it works better for both men and women.
ell_in_or
18 years ago
I took a pants fitting class that used a computer program to draft the pants pattern. Depending on how and what stuck out (bubble butt, droopy flat butt, poochy tummy up by waist, etc.) the curve changed. Sometimes a lot. Unfortunately, I have not yet successfully gotten a muslin to fit me, as lately I've had zero time to sew. Can you get one of those moldable rulers and copy the curve from the intended butt? ;-) That may help. Also, could you borrow a pair of trousers that fit the person? You could see what the RTW people did.
Related Discussions
Granite Installed---Problem with Seam?
Q
Comments (56)
i own a granites shop, and looking at the pictures and the complaints, the common problem imho, is that they used only the two part epoxy and colored that to seam the pieces together. We will you a rapid edge 2 part penetrating epoxy and a simple base color of the rock to seam, carve the excess close to the surface out, go back and fill and color match with a knife grade epoxy (tends to not give off the hazy glow of most seams) and surface polish if needed. Most shops will say never touch the surface, thats old news. there are tools now to shine seams so they are un noticeable. we also start the tiniest bevel on the seams edge with 1000 pad up to buff to get rid of the grey rocky look on the edge of the seam. If you were my customer and unhappy with the seam, it wouldnt be a problem for me to make a second attempt at getting it right.
...See More
Curved seam sewing gadget
Q
Comments (1)
I got a curve master foot several years ago. I tried 2 or 3 seams with it and my fabric jammed up and I got frustrated and put it away. It's been in the drawer ever since. I suppose I should get it out and try it again. A lot of feet not specifically made for my machine (Brother) don't work very well with it. Donna
...See More
Sure this is how she busted the crotch seam loose.
Q
Comments (0)
She also said she "bout near broke my back in half" Susan
...See More
Granite Seams
Q
Comments (9)
I have pics of two corners with curved seams. These are done with a CNC machine. From what I've been told, this is one, if not THE best type of seam you can get. There's another one called a serpentine seam which looks different than this one. One of our granite pros here at GW has discussed that type too. Seams today are MUCH better today than they were 10 years ago. The seam in my granite from 2000 is WIDE and you can see the clear caulk. If you have a tight seam....I would be happy with that. But you might tell your fabricator it would have been nice to have known...or been shown a seam example. Kompy THIS ONE YOU CAN BARELY SEE....BUT IT'S THE SAME TOP AS THE PIC ABOVE, JUST A DIFFERENT CORNER!!!!!!!!!!
...See More

Related Stories

KITCHEN ISLANDS What to Consider With an Extra-Long Kitchen Island

By Eric Reinholdt, Architect

More prep, seating and storage space? Check. But you’ll need to factor in traffic flow, seams and more when designing a long island

REMODELING GUIDES Top 10 Tips for Choosing Shower Tile

By By Any Design Ltd.

Slip resistance, curves and even the mineral content of your water all affect which tile is best for your shower

CONTRACTOR TIPS Contractor Tips: 10 Home Areas That Likely Need a Pro

By Buckminster Green LLC

Safety, less cost and better aesthetics on a home improvement project may rest in the hands of an expert

DECORATING GUIDES DIY: How to Use Tapes and Trims to Embellish Your Decor

By Robin Braithwaite

Trim soft furnishings and window coverings with decorative edgings to add definition and style

Stained Glass for Every Style

Make your home glow with light and color from modern or traditional stained glass

KITCHEN DESIGN 19 Ways to Create a Cozy Breakfast Nook

By Becky Harris

No rude awakenings here. Start your day the gentle way, with a snuggly corner for noshing

ROOM OF THE DAY Room of the Day: Serene Sophistication in a Master Bathroom

By Becky Harris

Rich textures, careful planning and symmetry give an Atlanta couple a beautiful new place for unwinding

DECORATING GUIDES The '70s Are Back. Can Ya Dig It?

By Becky Harris

No need to cringe. These 21 groovy blasts from the past are updated to look fabulous today

ARCHITECTURE Houzz Tour: Give Me a ‘Y’

The 3-legged plan of this Tennessee house responds to its site with covered outdoor spaces and nature views

BATHROOM WORKBOOK 12 Ways to Get a Luxe Bathroom Look for Less

By Shana Ecker Home Stylist

Your budget bathroom can have a high-end feel with the right tile, stone, vanity and accessories

Sponsored

Frasure Home Improvements

2 Reviews

Franklin County's Highly Skilled General Contractor

More Discussions

denim, our "mother fabric"

4

huck toweling, anyone?

3