Cliff, Do you THINK that the TV repair people can work for free??? Bet that you DON'T!!! pw

"per bullvw - There is also a article at http://www.siliconchip.com.au/cms/A_30321/article.html that lists the most common parts replaced by Philips techs on a dead L01.1 chassis." Here is the article (note that the below article speaks directly to of the L01.1A chassis for a 29" model, not the L01.1U chassis for the 27" model): Philips L01.1A chassis I am beginning to see a few late-model 29PT2255/79R and 29PT2252/79R Philips TVs. I am talking about the L01.1A chassis, which came onto the market about 2001 onwards. The usual problem is that the set is dead due to the fact that the switchmode power supply is cactus. The cause is not yet fully understood but this fault normally occurs during power surges. To fix it, I order and install what I call "Fred's Mod Kit", named after a friend of mine who repairs these sets under warranty. He found that eight parts usually need replacing - the chopper transistor (7521), its driver (7522), IC7520, R3523, R3530, D6523, D6524 and possibly D6525, which is not always fitted. Of course, strictly speaking, this isn't a modification kit but only a replacement parts list. Perhaps a modification will come out in due course? Another problem that is occurring is hum in some Philips models. One in particular comes to mind, the model 29PT4873/79R (L9.1A chassis), which can get particularly bad if placed on a resonating wooden table. The cause is a deflection yoke with vibrating windings and the solution is to remove it and dunk it in Estapol varnish. Beforehand, it is a good idea to mask any areas that might be critical such as where it contacts the picture tube and the three rubber spacers. The procedure should be repeated three times, allowing it to dry after each dunking before reassembling it onto the tube neck. That should stop the windings from vibrating and fix the problem once and for all.

May be a defective solder connection in the crt filament circuit. To verify, look at the neck of the picture tube. You should see a faint light glowing in the neck. If the light goes out, then the picture will go off. This is not the "only" cause of no picture, but the most likly and one that you can easily verify. A loss of video information will also cause the picture to shut off. On the customer "menu", turn the brightness and picture full up. Then see if the screen goes black when the picture goes off. Good luck, pw

PLEASE, TAKE IT BACK TO WHERE YOU BOUGHT IT. If it's new, it is in warranty. (It may have been "dropped" in shipping.) pw