Remote controls are prone to go bad if dropped. You could try a universal remote if you know how to program it (sometimes confusing instructions). (cost $7 - $10 and up) Maybe try Radio Shack, if it doesn't work for you, you could return it. Bring your old remote, they may have a special "infrared business card" to test if it's putting out anything.

Need help putting caption on TV, we have no remote. Is there a menu button on the TV? Are you sure the TV has CC? Is this TV so old that it is not remote controlled? If so, per the link below, "For older televisions, a set-top box or other decoder is usually required.>" How are the channels changed, or are they? Via a remote for Cable or Satellite? The serial # means nothing. Do you have the model #? Sue Here is a link that might be useful: Closed captioning

Here are some things you can check. Some may not pertain and some will. Limited range of your remote controls could be related to radio frequency interference that comes from something in your home or in the surrounding environment. Certain electrical devices can radiate interference; this could be almost anything that is plugged into an electrical outlet. Please keep in mind that the device can be brand new, or can be an item that has been in use for quite a while. Also, the item may continue to function properly as far as you are able to tell. The only problem with the item may be that it has started to broadcast the interference, with no other symptoms noted. Some devices are more likely to generate interference than others. This includes TV cable, cable amplifiers, surge protectors, fluorescent lights, battery charging devices (power tools, golf carts, etc.), anything that utilizes a timer (sprinkler systems, lights, alarm systems, etc.), and a myriad of others. If the problem seems sporadic, we can safely assume that the device responsible for the interference is only being operated during these times. Again, please keep in mind that the age of the device does not determine if it is capable of broadcasting unwanted interference. Any electrical device can be the source of the problem. The first step is replacing the battery in your remote. If the range on your remote does not improve, remove the wall control wires from the overhead unit. If the range does not improve you will likely need to replace the remote control. After replacing the remote, or if you have other remotes programmed in to the opener, and the range problem still exists, please proceed to the Power Down test. Multiple garage doors: If you have two garage door units and one is working just fine, you will need to start by unplugging the good unit. This will help determine if the unit with no range starts to function properly. If the range comes back to the bad unit then you will need to replace the logic board on the unit that was unplugged as it is emitting an RF signal that is over powering the other garage door opener. If the range doesn not improve after the "good" unit has been unplugged, replace the batteries and try programming some additional remotes to determine if the existing remotes are the issue. If the extra remotes do not have any range then you would need to replace the receiver logic board in the "bad" unit. Power Down test: To isolate potential sources of interference, turn the circuit breaker off to the garage and plug the garage door opener into an extension cord from another room. If the range improves, then the interference is coming from a device in the garage. If no improvement is seen follow the same procedure, this time turning off the circuit breakers to your home, with the exception of the garage and test the remote controls. If improvement is noted, turn the circuit breakers back on, one by one, until the range problem resurfaces. This will allow you to narrow down what room the problem device is in. You will have to go from there to isolate it further, by unplugging and re-plugging the items in that room. If you are unable to determine any source of interference, then the receiver logic board in the overhead unit will need to be replaced.

The reason it will work going up but not down is because there has never been a child or pet squashed by an opening door. The sensors are completely out of the picture when the door is going up. The clicking you hear might be the relay for the light rather than the gear mechanism. Count the clicks again and if you hear 10 when the door is reversing you have a sensor problem. You say you checked the eyes. Do you mean you checked the small LED lights on the door sensors? Were they both lit?