Hi. Thanks for the comments. Just to clairify- I never meant that I was considering a Jenn Air/ Miele combo. It would be both JA or both Miele. Im WAY too picky to ever consider a combo like that. I again spoke with a JA rep. She told me the JA speedoven was not UL approved for use under a cooktop. That's fine with me since I never intended to put a cooktop over it. She wasnt really familiar with the fact that the piece should be installed 40" off the ground, so she looked it up, then went to talk to her manager. He didnt understand it either. Finally, we decided since the instructions say 40" off the ground RECOMMENDED, not required, that it was just that the speedoven is easier to use at the suggested height. She says if it was a safety concern, it would be given as a requirement, not a recommendation. Lee676, I guess I dont understand why things that get hotter cant be used undercounter, as I dont understand the ventilation difference between undercounter and snug in a wall cabinet. Seems like if the piece needed a certain ventilation, they should just say that, not give you some height restriction without expalination. But, I guess if that's the case with the Avaniums, there must be something to it that i just dont get. Anyway, as you may have guessed, Im getting my JA wall oven and speed oven. And they will line up perfectly, and I will sleep soundly at night! (assuming of course that im not wrong about this whole thing and wake up in a ball of flames thanks to my speedoven being installed undercounter). Thanks all! Cinnacracker

OK, youall have succeeded in drawing me into another argument. Let's start with the purpose of the overhead vent. The vent is intended to capture and contain effluent contained in the rising and expanding cooking plumes. It has an overlap capture requirement that depends on height, and a flow rate containment requirement that derives from plume velocities and secondary factors. It is not for capture or blockage of grease splatter, as that could require enormous air velocities to achieve. Down-draft "venting" and pop-up side-draft "venting" cannot achieve the needed capture and containment provided by an overhead hood of proper specification for these reasons: Air flow velocity drops rapidly as a function of the smallest dimension of a slot air intake (see the 2003 ASHRAE HANDBOOK, HVAC Applications, Fig. 6). The air velocity in all cases is too low to significantly change hot cooking plume momenta except those plume portions close to the pop-up, so the overhead hood depends on the natural rise of the plumes. Deviation of the upward momentum to the side, or by 180 degrees to head downward, can only work if the plume has low momentum, as in steam from boiling water. Hot oil/grease/moisture plumes from wok cooking and searing will be poorly deviated sideways or in reverse. Fume hoods can have horizontal hood configurations, but the top and sides are blocked from allowing fumes to leak out. The turbulence issue is complicated. Up-rising plumes can be disturbed by side drafts, poor insertion of make-up air into the kitchen, and cook motion. Side-drafts will be pulling air across pan and pot clutter, so some added turbulence is possible, but I don't think it will be a significant addition except close to the pop-up due to the velocity fall-off introduced above. On the other hand, a pop-up can block splatter trajectories from the burner up the the angle between pan and the top of the pop-up and as far as the pop-up sides shadow the area beyond. For this function, no air flow is needed and much of the pop-up system hardware can be dispensed with. If a blank face is used (no vent holes/slots), cleaning may be greatly simplified. Underfloor ducting, blower, external cap can all be deleted. Some cabinet space for the elevation mechanism has to be sacrificed. While a pop-up splatter blocker is a good idea if the degree of blockage is deemed sufficient for the expense, the subject raises the question of why children are sitting in range of hot grease splatter. At a minimum they would need eye protection. There are requirements (that I don't have at hand) for desirable rises and/or runs of seating countertops connected to cooking surfaces. I recommend proper desks in quiet areas for studying. The student should be fully absorbed into the material to be studied without distraction (or at least as little distraction as a post pubertal youth can manage).

We were hoping to do this in our new build with Bosch or Thermador units. Our cabinet guy said he could build a cabinet to make it work, but our appliance rep (and primarily his brand reps) said they wouldn’t stand behind the install in this configuration. We decided to split the two undercounter ovens, with a stack of cabinets directly under the cooktop and the two ovens to either side. I know it’s not ideal and would get torn apart by the kitchen gurus here, but it is what works best for us in this situation. We use two ovens a lot, I don’t particularly care for using the top oven in a stack (I’m short and don’t like lifting/lowering things at head level), and our options for stacking ovens this kitchen seemed to really close it in and limit countertop space. So this is what worked best for us.

Happy Friday! Let's BURN some time :) If I were the person who created this post, I'd be like... why on earth are these guys still arguing after 2 years? LOL. The logic is very simple: Not everyone has a gigantic backup generator. When the law prohibits gas, gas availability becomes a value-added feature of a house. 60% of US electricity is generated from coal (20%) and natural gas (40%) Woah wait... did I say natural gas is the top energy source of electricity?? Yes, that's the case for the US. So burning gas at 40% efficiency at the power plant to get electricity and then getting 90% efficiency at the induction doesn't seem to save anything. The math shows it's even less efficient than burning gas directly for heating (cooking). For me, I was stuck with electric for 20 years before switching back to gas, and I never regret about it. Everyone's cooking method is different. Carbon/stainless steel pans need to be preheated HOT and seasoned every time so they become nonstick. It's not the kind of seasoning that's done in the oven. BTW, some people just refuse to use nonstick pans coated with "forever chemicals" that flakes into the food and release toxic chemicals at high temperature. No one should install an under-sized ventilation system that doesn't match the stove, regardless of what stove to use. If the ventilation system can suck up the smoke, it can suck up the CO2 as well. For people with compromised respiration system, sure they should pay extra attention. But for the rest, we are just cooking food, not meth. Okay, I've said enough, and I should retire from this. I have better things to do. People who read this have my warnings. For people who disagree, enjoy your electric stove. Before I go, I highly recommend this for people who do stir fry or need to heat up a big pot of liquid. It can do both on the big burner. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DRGUiVWsqs