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Transition from bedroom into bathroom height difference.

14 years ago

What happens when you go from the bedroom which is one height and then at the opening of the Master bathroom (36") (no door now thinking of an external sliding door see link) there is going to be a 1" plus height difference due to the extra piece of plywood then the thinset ditra and 1/2" tile. What gets done in this situation? I'm thinking trip hazard! How do you dress the opening? We had very thin tile before and thin carpet and we will have carpet again. It was not a problem before but now were going up quite a bit and I am concerned and I don't know how to dress the end there? TIA (did any of that make sense?)

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Comments (11)

jjaazzy
Original Author
14 years ago
opps forgot the link!

Here is a link that might be useful: APA Closet Doors
bill_vincent
14 years ago
I think you'd be better off with a standard hinged door, and just undercut it. AS for the transition, take a piece of wood to match the bedroom floor, and have it milled to be the thickness of the height of the bathroom floor over the bedroom floor, and then bevel it down from that height down to nothing.
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We had the same problem of having to create a long hallway because of the layout of my house and where our front entry had to be. You can see what we did HERE. We absolutely wanted our laundry area near our bedroom area as we're empty nesters who are aging in place. Additionally, I was against the idea of walking through the bathroom to get to the closets which is why ours are arranged the way they are. As for a combined tub/shower in the master, I wouldn't do it. If you have a tub elsewhere in the house, I'd consider just a shower, or I'd absolutely do the separate tub and shower. I know that having a tub/shower in the master would be a huge negative to me, even when I was younger.
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I don't think it's good design to have to go through a closet to get to a bathroom. The second layout is more functional. However, I would arrange the bathroom fixtures differently: I'd swing the bathtub 90 degrees so it's against the wall at the "bottom" of the diagram. I would put the sink where the toilet is, and I would move the toilet along the wall it now is on, but between the sink and the turned bathtub. This eliminates the direct view of the toilet (if that concerns you), but, more importantly, it avoids having such a tight clearance between the tub and the front of the sink. As a side note, I don't know why you would want to have double doors into a bedroom of that modest size: it serves no purpose, is stylistically not in scale with the bedroom, and wastes useful wall space that you could use for displaying art.
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Here's the WORST thing that could happen. The floor will rip itself apart at the doorways. That's it. That's all. If that happens all you have to do is cut the planks in the doorway, drop in trim, tap the floor back together and off you go. The fun part is: winter is the SHRINKAGE time of the year. That means the summer will see the floor expand as much as 1/2" over a 30ft span. You could see BUCKLING in the summer rather than 'unzipping' along the edges of the plank. It's your call. You have VERY narrow pinch points. That means you need to do ++ door trim (1/2" expansion gap at ALL vertical obstacles = door trim). How good does that look? That big fat 1/2" gap around the door trim?
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jjaazzy
Original Author
14 years ago
Thanks Bill, for your info on the flooring. You don't like the sliding door thing? There are a couple of problem areas with respect to the swinging, we also considered a pocket door too but I am not a huge fan of those.
pepperidge_farm
14 years ago
We had a height difference and used a stone threshold cut to a "Hollywood" profile to step down the difference.

Ours was about 3/4" difference when all was said and done. This bevel worked nicely. We have an ordinary hinged door.

Here is a link that might be useful: Link to example...
jjaazzy
Original Author
14 years ago
Thanks pepper, did you have carpet next to this bevel around the bevel how does that work? Thanks for the link!
bill_vincent
14 years ago
jjaazzy-- The reason I don't like it is because of the height difference. sliding doors, as a rule, usually can't be undercut to account for the raise in elevation of the bathroom floor. This would mean structural work to raise the header for the door. With a normal swinging bathroom door, you can usually undercut as much as an inch or a little more without ruining the integrity of the door, meaning no structural work needed.
jjaazzy
Original Author
14 years ago
OH ok Bill I understand. These doors would actually slide on the exterior wall. The company makes them custom so I don't think that will be an issue here. I don't have a price yet so I just might be on fantasy island. Thanks again for all your expert advice.
pepperidge_farm
14 years ago
We go from tile to wood floor. The concept is the same as wood- basically just a smooth transition.

Without knowing the "correct" way, if I were transitioning to carpet, I would make the height of the carpet pile just about the height of the beveled side, or just above it, depending on how cushy the carpet is.

I haven't seen a wooden one, I have always lived/had a stone threshhold to wood floor, but Bill obviously does this all the time...
jjaazzy
Original Author
14 years ago
Thanks all, well see what happens.
zinnah
14 years ago
I have shimmed the area in front of the door to reduce the transition. Install a 1" strip of half inch plywood in front of the tile and use that as screed to feather a transition. Use fixall feathered out 18-24", install carpet, and you will never notice it unless using a very thin carpet. It is amazing what carpet can hide.
jjaazzy
Original Author
14 years ago
Thanks for jumping in Zinnah that sounds like a good plan. I hope we don't loose all our notes and stuff with the troubles they are having on the site. Wonder if i need to start printing things out. Thanks again!

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