I guess I hadn't thought of the possibility of mounting it on the glass. Are most toilet paper holders available with that type of mount? Thanks for your input!

First off, I wouldn't worry about the subfloor. Unless you flood the floor, not very much will get thru to the subfloor before it evaporates. That said, you still shouldn't grout that joint-- not due to watertight integrity, but rather as a movement joint. Wherever you bought your floor grout from, they should have siliconized latex caulk available in the same color from that manufacturer. THAT'S what you want to use.

I'm VERY late to the party, but in case others stumble onto this page..... I have a similar issue, but my waste line going out is 4 feet above the basement floor. I had an estimate as well, and very costly. What I'm doing is adding a "upflush system - Saniflo. Just as the sump pump is another thing that can break, so is the whole you put into your foundation. Concrete absorbs water, so why cut/create "cracks" that are not needed? If a home owner ever has a crack in the wall or floor, it's considered a problem needing to be fixed. So why create a "potential" problem? I'm keeping the bath floor as is, building a 2x10 or 12 platform for shower that will cause shower floor to be 12"-14" high. Then decide if i want 1 step or two, depending on the entry height. Entery height being the step into the shower. So, is that entry level the height of the shower curb? Shower floor? Shower base? Then take that height and divide by # of steps wanted or code for step risers. EX: If I want the entry step to be the same level as the SHower floor, thus just having to step over the curb, on a 2x10 = .5" tile 2.5" Shower pan (4.5" Shower pan curb-2" inside drop to shower floor/entry level = 2.5" .5" plywood 9.25 2x10 = 12.25 step(s) height /by 2 = 6&8th per step (2) without account tread height.

Hi tmnca! One thing to think about with the Kohler shower pans is whether you may ever be using a shower stool with legs. If you were to get a longer shower bench, the Salient may cause problems because the oval really does have quite a bit of "curb" to it, as shown in Badgergal's photo of her son's shower. With a small shower stool set in the center of the shower, it is fine. If you ever need a longer shower stool, the Bellweather gives you a surface not impeded with the raised oval. I does, however, have a slant to the overall shower floor, so that must be taken into account. I have seen the Bellweather in person. It is a non-slip surface. It almost felt like a surface that would make me trip - catching my foot if I did not pick it up and step. Like if I dragged the foot, it would catch and I would trip and fall. It was a funny feeling to the bottom, and I wondered how it would feel when wet. It was NOT going to feel slippery, though! As for tile in a shower floor, the other reason to have small tiles (besides the grout lines giving traction), is that the small tiles allow the tile layer to better cope with the slant toward the drain. Larger tiles only allow you to slant in one direction. The smaller the tile, the better it is for following contours on a floor that is flowing to a drain from all directions.