Did they place a water and ice shield barrier on the edge of the roof to three feet past the wall line? Your roof is not similar, only the material is. Original roof was solid from eave to ridge so any ice formed would just keep backing up the roof without penetrating. New roof is pieces which allow the ice to form and move underneath and then leak in the house.

it is a moen assembly sorry I don't know the actual valve models--no paperwork on that from the original owners and the plumber took the info I used to order the part--the part I ordered/replaced was 1423 Balancing spool Moentrol maybe something like this for the two-head control http://www.moen.com/products/T4111ORB ours is oil-rubbed bronze and it is installed with the lever at the top and the pull-out valve under it which looks the opposite of the Moen site photo the info on the Moen site says that it should turn from 'full cold to full hot' but there are stops the plumber came back out and said that when he put in the balancing spool he had opened the hot stop all the way and that if he closed the cool stop that it would not do any good because the balancing spool would basically just reduce the flow of water to make sure the balance of hot/cold stayed the same... he said that there is movement underway to basically take the choice out of amount of hot water coming through faucets and showers--that safety of not burning/scalding people is overriding someone's desire to have a 'HOT' shower... when I asked about replacing the valve/lever with one that would swing right/left to allow me to regulate the balance of hot/cold... he said it would be too expensive to actually change the control to that type of fixture because we would have to open up the shower wall--take out tile--replace it... so we are basically stuck with either setting the water heater to higher temp because that will bring hotter water to the mix and will be expensive choice or just learning to live with it like it is I plan to take a shower in the two upstairs showers and see if their water is hotter than the one downstairs--- he said that the master shower is probably farther from the water heaters--and it might be farther than the other downstairs shower by just a little...which would influence the water temp at the head... both water heaters are upstairs and closer to those showers... it is just very frustrating to find out that something we really did not consider all that much would become so frustrating... I don't take long showers--and I don't use the big tub at all--don't consider that I waste water compared to larger families or people who take a 15 min shower...so this irks me to no end-- our old house with its old shower had wonderful hot water and I am really going to miss it... Here is a link that might be useful: shower valve

Your softener started out with a capacity of 48,000 grains when the resin was new. In order to maintain that capacity you would have to regenerate your softener with an obscene amount of salt. As a lower salt dosage is used to regen, softener capacity decreases, salt efficiency increase and water efficiency decreases. There is a sweet spot where we get a good balance of salt and water efficiency at about 6 lb salt per cubic ft of resin. However, you have iron and manganese in your water. They are more difficult to strip off of resin than hardness ions (calcium/magnesium) so you need to use at least 8 lb salt per cu ft of resin. Since your capacity was set too high - yes, your settings have caused the hardness bleed from your softener. Good rule of thumb: If you don't understand what the programming means, don't change it without verification from someone who does. Your resin likely has some fouling. Fortunately, the SST-60 will be easier to clean than a standard resin if it is fouled. If you regen with 8 lb salt per cu ft, once sodium and hardness capacity corrections are made, you have a capacity of 23,275 grains. Your hardness needs to be set at 53 (39 calcium/magnesium hardness PLUS iron/manganese compensated hardness). BF (brine fill time) of 14 means you are regenerating with 14 lb salt/ cu ft of resin, which is high. Leave it there for now, until you've run a couple of regens with the correct capacity setting. You may need to go through a resin cleaning procedure to get your softener back to correct operation.

[Crosspost .[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/tile-installation-nightmare-dsvw-vd~4745887) You never responded about Your Contract. Lets say it is out of spec/standards Do you have a Permit a real contractor and A Contract? what do you hope to gain by posting this on multiple forums? If you have done all the proper paperwork and have documentation you even then may not have a case. Most everywhere in residential Namerica tile projects are not inspected (other than a shower base or pan & drain ) nor have any local standards to follow. This is why homeowners like you need to document things, get a contract that spells out tile standards that are non existant at the local level. If you have none of that you left yourself unprotected and are learning a hard lesson.