Kayleigh - yes, refinishing them is going to take a while to do a good job that you're happy with for years. I'm a little concerned about the filled holes for the centered pulls, I've not tried filling holes and gel staining but from reading around wood working sites on the net, some fillers (even if they say they are stainable) do not stain to the same color as the surrounding wood. Do some research and ask when purchasing your products for the project so you can get the best, most blendable look possible. If you only want your cabs a shade or three darker (and the clear finish over the wood is in very good shape), I had good luck using gel stain as a toner of sorts, I applied it like a wax to a console table and tall bookcase, rubbed it on sections and then buffed it off with a clean cloth. Even though it is like a transparent paint, it also has staining properties, it stained the clear coat on my pieces just enough to tone down the orangey in one and darken up a too-light finish on the other. Just something else to add to your considerations.

The bathroom was painted today. Thank you Beth H and other with the great suggestions! I took you advice and went in the blue/ gray direction for wall color. After sampling the colors suggested and similar , I chose Fanfaire by BM. It’s a really pretty soft blue/ gray, leans more to blue. Pics aren’t great, maybe daytime is better to take a pic, but here’s a few shots anyway. You were all right- it doesn’t compete with the blue accent tile, it actually enhances it. I’m very happy with it. Vanity Counters go in next week 😊

I would paint but I'd def go a warm shade of white, not colors like you're showing. They're cool toned, dark and will look dark and gloomy vs bright and open like the Gaine's photo. Note all the differences between the kitchens. Her's is huge with TONS of light streaming in from large corner windows, high ceilings. No upper cabs all contribute to very light and very open. Notice there are very few cabs in that room painted the dark tone. I'd definitely paint the window/door trims the same for a brighter look and continuity, maybe the walls too just as you see in her kitchen and most other white kitchens. I wouldn't worry about electrical, you have plenty and it'll be so much brighter after lighter paint. I painted our dark cabs creamy white to "hold us over" until we could remodel.....6 yrs ago. Now it's likely we'll not remodel. I've painted more cabinets white over the yrs than I can count but this time latex enamel for cabinetry (the best u can buy) didn't hold up at all around the hardware. It wasn't due to any prep issues because I don't take shortcuts; I sand, 2x primer, 2x finish paint but it was peeling around the knobs. I blame my other half to some degree; hardware isn't for using I guess....:) Anyways, 2 yrs after I painted, I re-sanded, used diff latex paint, same probs. Then I said, OK, enough of this crap, I'm doing OIL based. I painted a few, let them sit for a yr and FINALLY, no problems. It's been 3 yrs now, they're still perfect. You will prob only use 2 quarts, you can do just the doors/drawer fronts. You could use latex elsewhere but for the "finger" areas, oil. Also oil based primer. Our before kit was dark and depressing; this was the lightest it would ever get during the day. I've since painted the backsplash white, changed a few door fronts out, changed the hood, moved the microwave.

I think the one on the right just looks flat and lifeless, but the left has warmth and dimension. The style of your flooring is traditional with the strip, your home is traditional. The raw white oak look is very trendy, and I just don’t think it is always the right choice and brings out the beauty of the wood. A medium brown stain would be easier to get uniform in a refinish, but I can understand you preferring a lighter floor. So, if lighter is your preference, I would go with the choice on the left.