Always loved the parkway. It was such a good place to get all my phone calls done, being I didn't have to watch where I was going......AT AN IDLE!! :-) I used to live just off of it.... literally-- I lived in a house right at the end of the southbound exit ramp on Wheelers Farms Road in Milford, going back about 20 years ago!! :-) It was a terrific place to live-- Some people have to worry about vibration from passing trains. me, I had to worry about the shaking from CH-53 Helicoptors flying over from across the river at Sikorski while training pilots!! (for those who don't know, those are the helos that you see carrying TANKS)

I'll fire off a couple of quick details here. The top of the curb needs to be a code minimum of 2" above the top of the drain. Floor pitch is 1/4" minimum to 1/2" maximum, so with your curbless installation the sloped part of your floor (ie, the beginning of your sloped "pan") needs to begin 4' to 8' from the drain. Or that distance could change with a graduated slope. That's how it's interpreted and enforced in my locale at least. By casting the pan at the time the slab is poured, you'll be depending on the flatwork crew to shape your pan. That can be risky. My first choice would be for them to form out the sloped pan area at an approximate 3" lower elevation, essentially stepping the floor down in the pan area. That way you get a complete integral pour with your tubing covered. Box out a small area, 12" square or so, for the shower drain, with the drain stub sticking out vertically. After the flatwork guys are done, the tile guy can add the slope inside the stepped down area while installing the Kerdi drain. An alternative would be to form out the area of the pan with lumber, and not fill that area with concrete at this time. Have the pan poured and the drain installed at a later time. You have radiant tubing in this area? If pouring part now and part later, the tubing can be run and the formwork can be notched to accomodate the tubing. I've done that a few times when doing partial pours. There's also the detailing that needs to be done to the underside of the slab that makes up the sloped pan, since the pan will be in direct contact with earth. Again, based upon the experience of the crews that I deal with I'd rather have a tile guy take care of that instead of a concrete flatwork crew. If you have it all done now and the poured slab is properly detailed, then yes, Kerdi and/or Ditra can be thinsetted directly to the slab. Mongo

Does this sound possible? If not, why wouldn't it work? I looks good on paper, and should work. Just be advised-- you're "working without a net". If there should be a problem, Neither Custom (Redgard's manufacturer) nor Schluter will warranty an installation using a combination of their products. That said, I've done pretty much the same thing many times, using Hydroment's Ultraset any time Kerdi-fix would've been necessary. But I also have some experience working with the products. my second possible thought was to use the standard clamping drain with either a "kerdi hat" that is tough to find, but then I could kerdi all the way to the drain, right? Although I don't know that I personally would trust Redgard as a pan membrane, I don't know that I'd want to chance creating a "moisture sandwich" between the Redgard and Kerdi, either. And yes, Noble has something very similar to the "Kerdi hat". But now you're using bits and pieces from three different manufacturers. It'd be like taking a Chevy, and trying to put a Ford motor and Mopar transmission into it. If you know what you're doing, it could work. But even if you DO get it to work, you'd be better off to use all from one manufacturer.

I just checked out your thread (not just the single post with pics. It sounds like Bob Campbell (bbcamp) gave you some good advice. As for the drain and zero movement, that same runny thinset could be the answer to that, as well.