Frameless Shower Door Installer

12 years ago

Can someone recommend an installer who can repair a DYI install job gone bad in Southern NJ?

Doors were ordered through Wilson Glass. I believe the measurements are right on since DH is great with mechanical drawings and measurements.

Don't want to bore you with the details.

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Comments (4)

User
12 years ago
bore us-

your problem might not be fixable as glass is not flexible.
MongoCT
12 years ago
If it doesn't fit, it really can't be resized on site.
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In retrospect, yes, it's a detail that needed to be discussed ahead of time: 1) The pony wall defines the footprint of the shower. 2) Where will the glass meet the pony wall? On the centerline on the pony wall? Or offset in, or out? 3) Where will the break in the floor tile will be in relation to the glass, and thus, the pony wall? Typically you'd want any water that runs down the door glass to land on the sloped shower floor tile so the water will be guided to the drain. 4) Without a traditional curb, what measures will be taken to prevent moisture that penetrates into the shower floor (thinset and grout, etc) from migrating out into the bathroom floor? 5) Will the cap on the pony wall be sloped in to the shower for surface water drainage? And... 6) How will we prevent water from migrating from the shower floor structure and into the bathroom floor structure, possibly wetting the bathroom floor tile and grout , because of moisture being drawn via capillary action through the thinset and grout? I could add a slew of other points to ponder. But this is the internet. And my cup of coffee is near empty. In my opinion the layout is fine as is. Nothing inherently wrong about it. A detail to confirm is if the shower floor (or under tile) waterproofing extends out of the shower -- past the break in the floor tile -- and out under the bathroom floor for at least a few feet away from the actual shower threshold. With possibly a capillary break set near the threshold as well.
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Perhaps your contractor estimated it like that because they are going to take 2 trips. When our glass installers were here they didn’t seemed rushed, just efficient. It’s possible they want to do one at a time so he told you they’d go into that second day. Were you home on the day the glass person came to measure? I remember the glass person talking to me about a few details (width of mirror bevel, type of shower door handle, etc); did you have the opportunity to meet them and get a sense if they seemed comfortable and competent? At the end of the day, if your GC hired them, he/she is responsible, so hopefully it all goes well. Your shower is very pretty!
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jerseygirl_1
Original Author
12 years ago
I realize glass is not flexible and resizing is probably an impossibility. At this point, I just want to get it remedied. Basically, the panels are not plumb with the walls and the caulking looks like a train wreck. It may be just an adjustment and recaulking (I hope). If the glass is incorrectly sized, I need to find out. It would probably be the side panel by the door. I think Wilson Glass will work with us if sizing is ths issue. I will take pictures a little later after DH leaves the house.

I am trying to get this fixed without DH knowing how upset I am. He really did try his best,
bill_g_web
12 years ago
Bummer.

I know what your DH must feel like; I suspect he's pretty upset too. Neither reading a level accurately nor working with silicone caulk are trivial. I did a DIY install of glass from Wilson too and wrote up a few pointers.

http://www.billbblog.com/Diy/35/Installing-Glass-Shower-Glass

A couple key things are to be very careful when reading the level - you can't be off at all. Take your time. And when caulking with silicone, mask off the tile with tape, held back maybe 3/16" or 1/4" and keep the hole in the nozzle smallish so you don't get so much extra to wipe off.

If your DH decides to redo the job himself, if the holes drilled in the curb and walls are just slightly off, he may have difficulty drilling a new hole right next to an existing hole. My glass from Wilson had a little wiggle room though, provided by the u-shaped cut-outs where the clips go, so that should save him; allowing him enough wiggle to drill a new hole far enough away from an existing one so that the bit won't wander into the existing hole.

Google "removing silicone caulk" and click the This Old house link. Basically, use a utility knife and razor blade and finally a cloth with mineral spirits to get the last of it.

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Frameless Shower Door Installer

Comments (4)

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MongoCT

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jerseygirl_1
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bill_g_web

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Frameless Shower Door Installer

Comments (4)

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MongoCT

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jerseygirl_1Original Author

bill_g_web

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jerseygirl_1
Original Author