Putting the grates in the dishwasher might allow some rust to occur. There is usually a little hole on the back that is unprotected. Not a big thing as it could be wiped off. Also the strong alkali used in some dishwashing detergents could possibly dull the porcelain finish. Of course that's why they clean so well, they eat up the grease.. Strong ingredients would be sodium carbonate, and stronger are potassium or sodium hydroxide (lye). Over time they might have an effect on the finish. (They eat aluminum- especially if the aluminum is touching cast iron) I also think that the smaller burner size of the Bluestar smallest burner is much better than just lowering to a simmer the larger burners of any brand. I think CC made a mistake by not having at least one small burner. And that is not necessarily about hot handles, or burning paper plates or 'clicking of ignitors- it's about cooking, control, and smaller pan sizes, which a lot of us have and use. I looked at some of the specs given by Trevor about C.C. compared to a Bluestar and I winced. He used the acronym FTRT (failed to reach temperature) on a large open pot with a gallon of water on the small Bluestar burner. Yet, thank goodness, I would not want that burner to produce a boil under such conditions! That's the whole idea. Fewer BTU's are sometimes better. Of course that was with the burners set on high with a 9 1/2 inch pot size. I don't want to bore too many of you, but just look at the photos of the CC on simmer (the large burner now that is the only burner offered). Lots of blue going on. No way is this going to simmer as low as the smaller burner that Bluestar has. A cook on a Culinarian is going to have to watch that steel cut oatmeal much more carefully, especially if they're cooking for one. And if you're cooking in a small 6 inch pot, you don't always want to turn the heat all the way down on your big burner. First of all, it won't be a simmer for a small amount of food, (this is true for chocolate, and many delicate sauces) and secondly, it you want to turn the heat up, yes it will cook, but much of the heat just goes outside the pan. This would drive me crazy.

Also do not recommend a Blue Star. Had a Lacanche for 11 years and loved it. Moved to a new home with a 36" blue star and it is really terrible. The burners flame out, the oven is 36" wide but not that tall making it a pain to put dutch ovens in it and out, takes FOREVER to heat up, roast veg just don't turn out that well (typically undercooked), it's hard to get a low simmer. Yes, the burners are powerful but they have no meaningful range and the power isn't necessary. My Lacanche made great stir fry. Also have to rotate food more in oven to prevent burning. Some of these problems may be oven size and not blue star specific but I've cooked on other 36" ovens in rentals long ago and didn't have as much trouble with the oven. It seems to be made with solid materials but the putting together of those isn't that well done. I'm glad I got a Lacanche all those years ago when we remodeled out first kitchen. Our new home wasn't as lucky. Missing my Lacanche Volnay.

What is a "local safety officer"? What do you mean "a bunch of back and forth" with your "local safety officer and Wolf"? What prompted you to use your CO meter to test the levels? They are employed by our BC safety Authority who are the regulators for all regulated work, gas and electrical and such. As a licensed gas fitter I hold my ticket through them and they are the final say when it comes to appliance safety. Permits and approvals for equipment go through them. I chatted at length with him about the stove and he did agree we can’t do anything because it meets ANSI standards being below 800ppm, but he did say he wouldn’t have it in his house. His advice to me was if Wolf won’t do anything to then adjust the burner input by under firing the appliance to bring the CO back inline. I went to Wolf with this information and they said ‘based on your requirements I don’t think Wolf products will be right for you, would you consider a buy back’. Checking CO is very common here in Canada especially when commissioning an appliance. I didn’t mention the CO alarm going off because it never went off, however it did show peak levels in the 15-19ppm range after cooking for a short period of time. Enough to make me concerned with a pregnant wife and 2 yr old. This is what will happen if you in a room where the CO levels are 800 ppm. The ANSI standards are referring to the CO levels in the air coming out of the range vent. 800 ppm air coming out of the vent does not translate to a room concentration of 800 ppm. Especially if you have your ventilation on. Now, if you were getting 250-300 ppm where the cook was standing, that indicates a concentration of way more than 800 ppm out of the vent, and thus a violation of ANSI standards. Either way, those readings were way too high and Wolf's response was poor. Yes, I agree, somewhat. The stove should never be operating at the ANSI levels, your house would build up to a dangerous level of CO over time ie. When cooking a turkey for hours. Our utility will actually shut down any gas range over 540ppm during normal operation. Also they shutdown any other appliance if its over 250ppm while operating. I agree we need ANSI standards but as new homes get built tighter and with less makeup air having a cooking appliance pumping 800ppm at the vent/flue is insane. Consider this regulation was put in place in 1926, buildings have changed considerably since then. So, what happened when you tried adjusting it? Was 250-300 ppm the lowest it would go? That would surprise me, I have adjusted several gas ranges and have usually been able to get them down to 30-40 ppm from as high as 500 ppm. I knew this question would pop up, but yes I went through the full range of what is reasonable on a brand new appliance. Below is what I went through, to try and reduce the CO: Tested inlet pressure, adjusted within 1”wc of manifold pressure. ‘Wolf recommends having inlet pressure within 1” for proper operation’ – no change Checked flip top regulator and it was set to natural gas Checked manifold pressure on stove it was at 5”wc Verified orifice was correct as per spec sheet supplied by Wolf Adjusted air shutter, no change was actually higher and this was the lowest I was able to get the stove to run at CO tests were done after 10-15 minutes of operation and the burners were warm Clocked meter to verify burner input is correct Verified no blockage in burner tube Verified all secondary air ports were free and clear House is still very drafty, so not a lack of air within the house The only thing I never did was under fire it, as I didn't want to go down that road on a brand new piece of equipment. Wolf blew me away with their service and willingness to make a customer happy. From a cooking standpoint however, it will be Bluestar for us.

Selected the Bosch Benchmark 36" Induction with the stainless trim. Saleslady took a bit of time to explain the differences to us. Just like the Thermador, I can put multiple pots on at one time, no limit to the number other than I what I can fit. She said the learning curve was pretty quick. Bosch knows a lot about electronics, has a history in Europe with induction and a very similar repair rate as GE according to Yale Appliance. I went with Bosch Benchmark. So, that decision has been made. No sooner do you solve one problem as you encounter another. The blower. I bought the 36" Zephyr Downdraft to replace the old Dacor. It was either that or the Best. I don't care. They both have 18" telescoping hoods when fully deployed. As an example, my old Dacor will only telescope to 8". Hopefully, this will help with some more capture. I know it's not perfect, but it's best I can do in this particular kitchen. Here is the next problem. I already have a remote blower. It's a hybrid between an in-line and external blower. I think this application is more common in the South than elsewhere. The blower is located on the interior side of the exterior wall. An external cover is located on the outside wall of the house. The blower parts are just inside the wall. Is that in-line or external? Who the hell really knows. Anyhow, here is the problem. I already have a blower fan unit functioning and installed. The appliance lady wants me to order a new, separate blower motor. Isn't a motor a motor? Isn't a fan a fan? Why do I need a new external or remote blower unit? This goes for any brand that I might choose to install. It seems to me that electricity and wiring and motors don't care. Could someone tell me why I am wrong? I hate to pay $1,000 for a motor that I don't need.