Advice please!!---- Crushed stone footings
emmachas_gw Shaffer
15 years ago
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mightyanvil
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Path: Thin layer of crushed gravel on compact clay?
Comments (13)I just think you would find that that construction method does not hold up--especially for heavy-ish objects on wheels.The fact that it would be over the compacted clay affects how the path handles water and so the thin layer that you describe will not necessarily compact together properly, as I understand it. So one point might be, if you are just trying to have a path that has some gravel showing here and there and you like the texture combo rather than just hardpacked dirt, it may be that no special kind of gravel is needed because--and I am not an expert here--you have bypassed the construction methods that promote the behavior of DG as packing and interlocking particles. If you were just aiming for a footpath to avoid mud, I would say that it is possible to make informal stepstone or paver paths with less rather than more preparation than is often recommended--again that is allowing for lower expectations for aesthetics and stability; but for rolling wheelbarrows and garbage cans, you need more width than a step-stone type path. Maybe it is because I take to heart your proposed dimensions--1/4-1/2 inch thick is not very much! I believe that some apparently well-worn hiking trails actually have additional gravel added over time for this very reason. Plus if you have hiked after a rain and after the park rangers have driven through you will see the ruts with standing water and mud. One concern I have is that adding the very thin layer may actually change the clay to be more of a weed substrate than before, because now the soil may become more porous and aerated instead of being relatively inhospitable. When you say "easy to hoe," I think, hoeing is so disruptive, it will make it worse, and then how does it end up looking better than just a beaten path? But what I hear you saying is, you would like the look of a gravel-ish path. So maybe if your expectations for better function are low and you like the aesthetics of a gravel-ly path, it is right for you. This is a long way of saying I have not made a path like this with good long-term results....See MoreMy dream garden is crushed!
Comments (13)Electric fencing will keep out almost anything, if the wires are placed high & low enough, and weeds & grass are prevented from touching the bottom wire. For wide gardens, or rural gardens with dense herbivore populations, I believe that this is the only reliable option. It is also probably the cheapest in the long run (especially for large areas) although the initial outlay can be around $200 - $300. Remember, you only need to buy it once. The fence needs to go up _early_, before the pests get a taste of something they like. It is most effective when used to discourage the animals from their first entry... once they get a taste, they might put up with the shocks to get back in. My top wire is only chest high - with cages or trellises on the other side, the deer won't jump over. For open stretches, I run a high line of bailing twine between the pole tops, with flags hanging down at intervals. The majority of my garden is in a rural area, and I could not garden successfully without an electric fence. For me, it has kept out woodchucks, deer, and raccoons. Unfortunately, it is only marginally effective against rabbits; they just hop through the wires. Once the growth becomes dense, they like to raise their brood within the fence... I spend weeks chasing them around most years. For narrow plots (such as raised beds) a high fence (5-6 feet), or perimeter of fishing line strung at multiple levels, will discourage deer. I have had some success with a row of construction remesh around an area, mounted _horizontally_, about 24" above the ground on stakes - the deer won't step through it. Unfortunately, few fixed barriers will discourage a woodchuck; they will climb over, or dig under, almost anything. Nor are you likely to scare them away with scent. Traps are usually ineffective - there are scores of GW threads on this issue, and the failures outnumber the successes by a wide margin. Provided that such measures are permitted by local codes (and by your personal beliefs), baiting or shooting offer the best hope for a permanent solution....See MoreOnce again, my garden hopes and dreams are crushed. Literally.
Comments (64)Scott, I just just logged on and saw your post. We have been so crazy busy with clean-up, the kids, and just daily life that I haven't checked back in. This story has a HAPPY ending! Or, at least, not a bad one. :) Our insurance deductible is $2,000. The claim was just over $4,000 in damages per the adjuster. He gave us a couple of hundred for debris removal, $2,000 for the fence repair, a little bit for the attic leak which just requires some water seal, and around $2000 for the depreciated value of the play set and grill. Nothing for the large tree or fruit trees, as they did not hit any structures. So we have $2,000 for repairs. The city of Jenks hauled away all of our small limbs free of charge. I listed the play set for parts on CL (swings, slide, rock climbing wall, ladder. etc) for $80. A very nice man came and bought the parts, then insisted he haul away the scrap wood too. He has 20 acres somewhere and said he would rather burn it, so we didn't have to pay to get it hauled off! He is a carpenter, and said that now he can build his grandchildren a play set for minimal cost. Win-win for both of us. I helped him load it, and I thought I was gonna die. Some of the items were huge and heavy (the roof, the tunnel)...He brought a pickup truck and a 16 foot trailer, and they were both piled high when he drove off. My neighbors' landscapers asked if they could have the grill for scrap metal, so I gave it to them. Dave fixed most of the damaged fence with a few new rails, some leftover stain, and some quickcrete. That cost under $50. So now, we actually have around $2,000 to replace the play set and grill (which is about what they will cost). We pretty much broke even :) The big tree is mostly gone, and many of my small fruit trees were undamaged. One was on its side, and we replanted and staked it. A couple are snapped off. They may regrow. I do still have a large stump and a few feet of the base of my tree laying in the garden, Dave has been hacking away at it. But Scott, if you are ever in the area and the offer still stands, I'd love to take you up on it. Don't make a special trip, and I'd insist on paying you something for your time and effort. I'm not sure how long you are going away for, but I don't think Dave is going to get this thing chopped up any time soon. :) Jo...See MoreQuartzite Bianca Problem - advice please
Comments (20)Sochi- I KNOW the old saying of: "If could-haves, would-haves, should-haves, if's and but's were CHIPS AND NUTS... the whole WORLD would NEVER STARVE" applies here, and I don't want to get a sore foot from kicking a dead horse..... but......... first of all - your fabricators should have used 2 slabs for the project to have gotten a showpiece result. Yes I know that Quartzite is more expensive per square foot that many other Granites - but the extra cost would have been worth it for the end result that you now do NOT have.... as far as seams go - from your description - IMHO your fabricator is a rank amateur.. Seams can be made to have NO GAP between the two halves of the stone - I TEACH this technique for cryin out loud!!!! IT CAN BE DONE BY HAND!!!! A "dual seam" at the cooktop - one at the left side and one at the right side - both front and back - might have stretched the stone to the right - (looking at the counters facing your cooktop) enough to have given you enough stone to have gotten the overhang dimension so you didn't have to do the walnut thingy (which is going to show wear WAY faster than the stone would have) A guy with more "pro level" experience would have "floated" that idea BEFORE fabrication started. This guy did not - which tells me he does NOT have a lot of jobs under his belt, or, he was clearly distracted by other things that held his attention more.. Did you have Boxerpups on the project ? - maybe he was captivated by her good taste and just couldn't focus on your counters, but then - IF Boxerpups would have been your designer - this clearly would NOT have happened...HA!!! Seriously - your fabricator is not up to a re-do if this is his "best effort" "coming out of the chute" - Tell me you have not paid in full for the job... IF you get another slab - I would look for a new Fabricator (with a Capitol "F") that CAN handle a project like this. Quartzite is NOT the easiest material to work - it is way harder that many Granites and can be frustrating for guys to hone and poilsh, but it can be done - you need to have a real "PRO" do the "re-do" - not a beginner..... hth kevin...See Moreshreeshiri
15 years agoemmachas_gw Shaffer
15 years agorollie
15 years agomightyanvil
15 years agokjboggs
15 years ago
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emmachas_gw ShafferOriginal Author