Opinions on how to set glass in shower rebuild

15 years ago

This is my lovely shower

that will soon be partially demolished to repair a breech in the kerdi that is allowing the wood curb to absorb water, swell, loosen grout and caulk, etc. This was built so that the glass was set directly on top of the kerdi (the wooden curb was covered with hardibacker and then wrapped in kerdi- I hope that is said right) and then the tile man tiled up to the glass on both sides. The inset glass was a lovely look, and this is not what caused the breech per se, but I have been advised to avoid the same installation in the rebuild.

Could you please weigh in on options for me to do it better this time? All the glass is going to be replaced, so they are going into the wall and the curb, rebuilding the curb I believe (still waiting for an insurance adjuster.) I want something with minimal frame, but I also want the glass on TOP of the tile this time. What are my options, pros and cons of each, with pictures if possible? It is suggested that a frame band similar to the one on top of the glass now be glued to the tile and the glass set it it.

Thanks!

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (7)

ladycfp
Original Author
15 years ago
BUMP out of sheer desperation, people.

Had a different glass company out today to measure in order to bid. His suggestion was to use a runner/channel secured to the curb on top of the tile to set the glass in. It will be secured with silicone (I think) but he also uses screws to secure it. That means drilling into the tile, the curb- but he says he seals it. I have read of this before here but cannot find the thread (I guess it is lost- hope it comes back) and wonder if I should let them do it this way. He seemed to feel since there will be no frames between the panes of glass, it would add security to the structure. He has done it without screws, but again, since it it otherwise frameless, does not recommend that for my design.

There will be a band at the top as there is now. He would also use the runner/channel down the wall in addition to on the curb. He also wants to use silicone inside the shower between the panes that are frameless, even though they will be mitered to fit together.

I am so tired of having workmen in the house- I dread this rebuild- I really want to do this right. Please weigh in on your glass on tile installation. Thanks!
vicnsb
15 years ago
Sorry I don't have any help...but hoping someone will have a suggestion
because I am currently building a pony wall that I am planning to have
a glass panel on. I have not had a glass co. out here yet so I have not
addressed it.
Sorry you have to demolish you lovely shower, but it will be back!
Good luck!
vic
Related Discussions
Glass shower enclosure experts...opinions please
Q
Comments (4)
I have a fixed panel attached to studs in the wall in two places and to the floor in one place and sealed with silicone at the wall and floor. The door is hinged to the fixed panel. The fixed panel is 1/2" glass 13"wide by 75" high. The door is 3/8" glass, 34" wide by 75" high. There is a 13" wide panel on the other side, also attached to the floor and to studs in the wall. We have had no problems in the three years that the shower enclosure was installed. However, unlike your setup, our door rests on the floor, since the shower is designed to be roll-in, should the need arise. Thus, the weight of the door rests on the floor when it is opened, not in the air.
...See More
Need Opinions on Grout Water Stains Outside of Curbless Shower
Q
Comments (12)
Mongoct/Live Wire Oak, Thanks for the replies. Here's a photo I took right after the hot mop was done. You see it terminates at the outer half wall surface with a 'lip' maybe 1" tall (I didn't measure it so just guessing). So that centered tile in the entry sits above that and during a normal shower the water line (water that splashes over the drain to the door) doesn't go past about halfway the thickness of those half walls or doesn't go past the glass door that's centered between those half walls. So if I understand what you're saying about the capillary break, the tiler should've physically separated the thinset/mud under the entry area tile by creating a physical divider barrier to separate it from the thinset/mud under the rest of the tiles on the bathroom floor? I'm picturing a thin vertical layer of sealant (or membrane) from the bottom of the tile surface through thinset all the way through the mud down to meet the hot mop 'lip'? That would then form a barrier and force the water that gets under the tile to stay in the pan and go back towards the drain. I'm still trying to get a feel for how much water could be sitting under my bathroom floor (worst case) or if it's limited to a few areas of damp thinset due to wicking that are showing up as dark grout spots (best case?). Relative to the amount of water that seems to be making it down the drain, how much water are we talking about that could be wicking out through the thinset/mud/grout? 10%? 20%? 50%? How long does it take for the water that eventually sits on the concrete slab to evaporate or absorb into the slab itself? And what damage would this cause long term assuming the water never makes it to any wood?
...See More
Need opinions on two sets of washer/dryer - Trying to sell lake house
Q
Comments (32)
Your realtor definitely needs a professional photographer. The green paint itself MAY be fine if say, that bedroom isn't really that drab-ly dark. I think you said the salmon has already been repainted? Good... I wouldn't add an extra laundry in the garage, and from what I see of the garage floor, it doesn't need painting. (Then again, there may be parts I cannot see.) I love your woodwork, especially the kitchen cabs. If you leave any objects over cabinets, make them just a couple of items easily recognizable as to what they are - I spent too much time trying to figure them out while looking at that photo. Agree with others about the nipple lights, too. And that write up!
...See More
Rebuilding my shower - Advice needed (pic included)
Q
Comments (13)
Thanks guys. I didn't flood test the liner but I did pour water in to test that the slope was ok and there were no dips. The water drained fairly slowly around the drain but as I understand it, the weep holes aren't meant to drain large amounts of water at a time (as in a flood test). The cement board in question wasn't 100% straight so I had to add to the framing behind it which made it much better. I still have to pack the floor in, install a shower valve, and waterproof everything once time permits it, then it's off to tiling. Should I regard the cement boards before doing the floor or should I waterproof everything after the floor and curb is done? **On page 6 of the Durock installation manual, it shows a diagram of the cement board above the floor bed with sealant in between. This just adds more confusion as to what it is/isn't supposed to be =\ http://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_Marketing_Communications/united_states/product_promotional_materials/finished_assets/durock-cement-board-system-guide-en-SA932.pdf
...See More
fidoprincess
15 years ago
I am so sorry this happened to you! Watching your posts help inspire me and I loved your bench so much, it made me get one too.

I don't know the answer to your question but have read almost all of the posts here and on john Bridge and a few other sites and they ALL say do not breach the curb with screws or nails. I have read enough posts of people who had silicone sealed screw holes that still leaked causing the wood to expand and ruin the whole shower. I did see a "new" kind of glass system in a very upscale store that had the glass supported mainly from the ceiling-techno or technic something but it was a fortune.

Hope this bumps up enough to get someone in the know to help you and good luck!
ladycfp
Original Author
15 years ago
Fidoprincess- thank you for your response. I was leaning toward going along with this plan, the glass company does it this way all the time they tell me. SIGH. I am glad to hear I should rethink this. But now what? I sure do not want to go through this- I sure do not want to go through this AGAIN! I hope someone will post a suggestion for me. I do have one more glass company coming out to bid the job so perhaps they will have input. I was told if they just glue the track to the tile, even though it has a band at the top also, it would not be secure enough to not pose a danger if it were bumped the wrong way, for example. Please keep the suggestions coming.
gbsim1
15 years ago
I'm so sorry you're going through this!

I think I'd want to know "WWBD".... or What Would Bill Do? I know he's not a glass guy, but how would he feel about the glass installers drilling into the Kerdi and tile that he had put on the curb?
lauren674
15 years ago
I'm not an expert, only a homeowners who's having the rest of our shower doors installed today...so basing my limited knowledge on conversations with our glass company regarding our install.

They may be saying they need to drill into the curb because there's not enough support for the glass just attaching to each other and to the ceiling. If that is the case, I would be considering a thick solid curb that could be drilled into without breaking through to the Kerdi/Wood.

In my install there are only 3 pieces and the two outside attach to the walls and the ceiling. The middle piece is the door which is supported by hingest attached to the outer piece. None of the pieces screw into the base. There was concern about the piece that abuts the glass block window because there are not screws in that area...so to be sure its strong they waited several days for it to dry completely before installing the center door.

You have pieces that would only be supported by each other and the ceiling that would also need to support the door...that's why I thought maybe a thick stone curb.
ladycfp
Original Author
15 years ago
Last week was spent having a glass guy come measure for a quote that has not come, trying to beseech another glass company to come quote, taking calls from the glass guy on the last job who wants to make it right, discovering the Suntouch floor has a GFI error that I cannot resolve (is water reaching it? I'd bet.) I spent months last spring on this project and am so, so over it. I came here, I learned a lot, I did all the right things (I thought) and still this is my result.

So I have made a decision. I left a message for my GC this morning to call me. I am going to delegate the entire thing to him, and hold him accountable to the result. I am not a contractor, tile expert, glass expert, I know little about building showers and what I do know I learned here and it hasn't helped me avoid the mess I am in. I am not willing to devote the hours to this AGAIN I already have before. I am not going to waste the beautiful fall days looking out the window at my horse in the pasture that I wasted last spring looking over the shoulder of every workman who came in here.

I really appreciate the input from everyone, I just have to move on and put some faith in someone IRL, if that makes sense.

Did I mention my kitchen remodel has been tabled?

Opinions on how to set glass in shower rebuild

Comments (7)

ladycfp
Original Author

vicnsb

Related Discussions

fidoprincess

ladycfp
Original Author

gbsim1

lauren674

ladycfp
Original Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

Opinions on how to set glass in shower rebuild

Comments (7)

ladycfpOriginal Author

vicnsb

Related Discussions

fidoprincess

ladycfpOriginal Author

gbsim1

lauren674

ladycfpOriginal Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

ladycfp
Original Author

ladycfp
Original Author

ladycfp
Original Author