yes, there is room for it. (at the bottom of the cabinet, not at knee height).

But not with a garbage disposal connected to the drain of a double sink.
A disposal is a thingie that has a lot of height.

There are a few ways to get a garbage disposal in there along with a dishdrawer.

If one day we see someone putting a disposal under a counter surface drain, we will have a new model to follow. Franke makes a 1" shallow sink. You can "build your own disposal sink" by installing a standard normal kitchen sink drain flange into your counter (assuming it's a stone or solid type material); and have runnels made so that it looks centered and intentional; and call it done. The cost for the flange and strainer is $10 to $20 or more. A round cover made of stainless steel will cost a few dollars too.

A dishdrawer's height is about 15" so that leaves you with about 15" above it for your sink drains. That seems a problem for most people because they often believe the P trap necessarily goes under the sink drain. ((The P trap is the bendy thing where some of the drain water remains at all time; water gets trapped while it also lets new drain water flow out.)) Your P trap needs some space. But you have plenty of space for a P trap if you scoot the sink's drain pipe horizontally so that the P trap can be installed at the back of your cabinet, near the wall. In fact, this works even in a regular size cabinet. This is why Ikea Blum drawers only go 21" deep. It leaves room for the big drain pipe.

A dishdrawer has compact plumbing so it also doesn't need a 30" (front to back) larger depth. That 30" distance (dimension) is depth not width as you wrote it. Sideways it's width. And, the other dimension of the three is height (which is depth in psychological terms and in real life use, but it's not depth in construction terms. (!). )

A dishdrawer has compact plumbing and is itself also fairly compact. So, the good news is it leaves you with enough open space BEHIND it for a garbage disposal if you want one. That would be near the wall. More about this below.

A dishdrawer fits inside 24"w so you have two ways to facade it. One is to put a 27"w front on it, which will extend 1.5" wider on the left and right sides, when you open it you will have that 1.5" wider panel visible and wider than the actual need to cover the dishdrawer front. This is assuming the dishdrawer is a panel-ready model.

Another option for a 27"w cabinet would then to facade it with two vertical strips 1.5" w which would frame both the 24"w dishdrawer front and whatever other panel or panels you place above it.

A 24"w or 27"w drawer above the dishdrawer would be a good fit. It could have a huge front. The drawer wouldn't hold much because the sink would occupy some of the volume. The drawer's back plate would be cut down to allow it to slide under the sink. I have this in my kitchen. It's a huge drawer with a 15"h front panel, with useable space mostly on the sides and on the bottom. I store my mixer in it, and many other things.0

f.y.i. a cabinet box doesn't need to have a bottom panel, if you stabilize it in other ways. To be more explicit about this, I'll write more another day if needed. Something along the lines that your cabinets are just little boxes that may seem a bit fragile individually (like a honeycomb cell will be fragile if it seen as an individual unit) BUT you attach them all together into a larger "unit" (like honeycomb cells being made into a far far more solid thing, called honeycomb) AND that you then attach this larger + stronger unit onto your house and walls which are the real solid structure here SO please go ahead and dream up the ideal box you will need, have it built. Attach it to the others and to the house and it all works out well. I removed the bottom panel of all my cabinet boxes and I squared and stabilized them by using strips of 1/8th inch metal (called "flat bars"). I also removed the cabinet's top panel, after the flat metal was all squared and screwed to the cabinet sides. By doing this I gained a huge amount of space, at no cost except the time it took to go get the metal and to install it. So, what this means is that your dishdrawer could be installed lower than one might suspect at first.

A garbage disposal needs to be installed right onto the sink drain hole. Only there. The sink has "height" and garbage disposal has its height also. The sum of these two numbers is going to be more than the space left over (i.e. about 15") if you plan for a dishdrawer to be in that cabinet space. You were "thinking I should have enough room for plumbing" and here is the main obstacle. A garbage disposal has height.

I would think about jettisoning the disposer.

Or, having a disposer under the drain of a trough sink that extends far enough to the back (to the wall) that its drain falls in the open space at the back. The open space come from the fact that the dishdrawer is only about 22"depth while you have about 30"depth. That dimension is called depth. The front to back direction is depth.

So the trough sink drain hole could be centered somewhere from 8" to about 3" or 4" from the wall. (Finicky minds will want to correct this, because the range I just wrote may be too large, but I trust you to see we are only talking in general terms here in this first go).

Another alternative is to find a sink shape that has a drain in a corner that you can install close to the wall. That would be impossible to find in a double-sink configuration. (or, almost impossible to find.)

For ANY sink there are lots of advantages when the drain is located at the back. The advantages have all been described in other discussion threads in the last few years.

The order-of-magnitude is the key thing in this step of the planning process. Above, I've used some numbers and terms loosely because this is an initial step. Anyone can help make it more precise later. The dimensions of a garbarge disposer, the dimensions of a dishdrawer, etc. So, let nobody think that 15" is THE number for anything. Wherever I wrote that number, it was an order of magnitude. Real life numbers are less than that so IT ALL FITS.

Adding a second DW is a great idea for a kitchen. But, design wise, it is much more functional in the cleanup zone than the prep zone. Otherwise, you have dripping back and forth as some things won't fit and you have to schlep them to the cleanup DW, and then you have overflow from the cleanup DW that you drip across the aisle to the prep DW. It just works better to keep both DW flanking the cleanup sink.

Be certain that you understand the ramifications of your location's adopted plumbing code when attempting unusual configurations. Particularly pertinent is the maximum drop from sink drain to its p-trap weir, the need for air venting of the dishwasher, or use of a separate trapped stand pipe and its minimum height above its weir, branch venting, etc. The sink weir also has to be low enough to accommodate the garbage disposal exit port, which can vary among models.

Consulting with your plumber on kitchen details should be like voting in Chicago on election day - performed early and often.

kas

Looks like the main decision we make is to see if we need a disposer. I am going to see if my visual brain can get a picture of what davidro1 is describing - tight bend first to avoid the deep U drop down of the ptrap, then the ptrap closer to the back wall. In a different post, you made a point about some specific pop-up drains from franke and blanco that already solve the tight bend problem- I did not understand that.

In a different bathroom post, you suggested some Ikea sinks that already have the tight bend..unfortunately none of those are available anymore.

Kaseki- my plumber already told me that the code locally requires an air gap but I can install a soap container after inspection if that is what I want. I have to research what is a weir :)

lalitha, I think the Beach BBX sink (Franke BBX-160) will give you a high positioned drain for a disposer. There is also another Franke sink out now, with this high-placement of a prep sink that comes with many attachments. It is way larger than the Beach. I forget its model name right now.

Understanding the Beach bowl and attachments takes time. Study it for a while.

--

New subject: ensuring the P trap is not in the way.

Searching using "elkay LKAD35" you get to see a complete Z-shaped drain pipe. It's a product sold as a product. (One can make the same setup work by using elbows, which are "parts" that one puts together with pipe.)
= I'm fairly certain that Once you've seen a photo of a drain pipe zigzagging like a Z (or half of a swastika) you'll wonder why in the world you needed to SEE the image. It is quite simple to imagine and to draw without any previous experience. It can be built using parts instead of buying a "product".

But in terms of customer psychology, it may be the easiest way to buy a solution. All in one. The complete pipe elbow kit. It gets the P trap out of the way.

Here it is on the ELKAY web site.
http://www.elkayusa.com/cps/rde/xchg/elkay/hs.xsl/elkay-res-16470.aspx?pid=LKAD35

This is not a remote pop up device. It's a drain pipe.

Here is a link that might be useful: Drain pipe bent to avoid the drawer or wheelchair knees underneath

The weir is the top of the dam, so to speak, over which the water flows. It is the inside bottom of the nearly horizontal pipe on the outlet side of the P-trap at the P-trap.

Long zig-zag runs before the P-trap may work, but I found in my first attempt that a long U-shape was very slow to drain. I gave up on it and went to a close-in P-trap connected directly to the disposer L-drain pipe.

The other consideration for putting a dishwasher under a sink is the potential nightmare of repairing the dishwasher, the disposer, or the plumbing. Someone may need arms with the strength and reach of an orangutan to be successful.

kas

Technicalities aside, you will have to step back and to the side every time to use this and there must be a handle which will stick out and is not comfortable.

Honestly, I don't think this is a good idea. I do feel it would be at counter top height on either side of a prep sink.

If you want a DW under a sink, then GE makes models that are designed to do this from day one. Their intention is to be able to offer a DW in a tiny apartment. It's a bad compromise on any level. The sink is shallow. The DW is small and noisy. And the whole setup is expensive to acquire and difficult to install. If you have a 6x6 Manhattan apartment, it may be your only choice if you have to have a DW, but most people do better with manual washing in that case.

And while installing a DD technically can be done in your suggested mode, there are good ergonomic and functionality issues that should keep you from doing this. Most of the same reasons that the GE unit is a bad idea mean that this is a similar bad idea, but costs even more money to do it even more badly.

I too think there are many ergonomic and functionality concerns that make it a worst-case situation.

I'm following up on this thread - did you install the dishwasher into 27in cabinet? I'm looking to do something similar but wasn't sure of the logistics.

i am looking to do the same - drawer dishwasher under my bar sink for bar glasses ...

8 years hasn’t changed a really bad idea into a good one. Why would you think it would?

And specific to bars, I have found that rinse-aid left on glasses by a dishwasher is not suitable for glasses holding liquids with subtle tastes unless rinsed off. Hand-washing in typical residential water will leave spots if rinse water is left on the glass, necessitating hand drying. Better is to hand wash and rinse, then follow up with a reverse osmosis water rinse, then hang to dry. There will be no spots when the RO water evaporates and no unintended flavors left on the glass.

What are the ergonomic and functionality issues associated with installing a DD under a sink? Fisher and Paykel has an fully integrated unit, so no handle sticking out. (Not sure if that was around when this thread was first posted.) The other issue I can think about is having to bend over to load the DW, but you have to do that for a full-sized one as well. I'm trying to design a kitchen in a very awkward space, and it looks like my choices are 1) DD under sink or 2) no DW :)

i would choose dd under sink - please let me know how it works out for u... my builder said it was not possible. i was looking for one for my bar, and i could have went w a vessel sink to allow more space under ... but in the end i gave up arguing w the builder.

Very glad I saw this site. I am designing a kitchen in a 7' x 4'-6" space in a Brooklyn apartment. I'm considering the Fisher Paykel single drawer DW installed installed beneath a standard, undermounted 24" wide SS sink in a 36" wide base cabinet with a stack of 8" wide (Inside) drawers to one side. I see no difference here (ergonomically) from bending to fill/empty an regular front loading DW. I could do without a DW but resale is a concern at some point.

Since we're all going full electric in the near future. I'm thinking of getting a 24" induction stove/cook top. The cook top would provide additional space to do food prep, etc. Anyone have experience with induction cook tops? Thanks.

I LOVE induction cooktops. They take very little vertical space, instant heat, easy to clean, beautiful. Best thing since sliced bread. No! The wheel! The only thing is they're electricity hogs, so make sure your house has adequate service (amps coming in).

Will do. I need to upgrade the apartment from 60A/220v to 100A/220v in any case. Thanks!

And add a boost transformer to get the 220 volts up to the required 240 volts.

Scrape, don't rinse.

Sometimes I don't scrape quite so much.

Nice work DJ. This is almost exactly what I'm planning with a stack of 9" wide drawers to the right of the sink and DW. Many thanks!

I'm glad i came across this forum. 😊 Thanks for the helpful pics D.J. & dadoes! I'm trying to decide between the Fotile in-sink 2-in1 dishwasher or this Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer 24" Full Console Dishwasher Drawer. I think I'm sold on the latter, as it frees up the double sink and looks aesthetically pleasing. Plus, it functions much as a full-size washer does, while allowing extra drawer space for storage. Again thank you for sharing!