Bill V and others: how to grout rectified tile,bullnose problems

15 years ago

I've searched the GW forums, John Bridges, and Google searches, but still need to make sure that one of the problems requires removing grout. I'm hoping against hope that grout doesn't have to be removed, so here goes...

Problem 1.

Have rectified porcelain tile in gray, with gray grout. The tile isn't "color-body" (term?) The installer used 1/8" spacers (not 1/16", because he "doesn't do less than 1/8"). The floor looks good with the 1/8" spacing. The problem is the grout isn't level with the tile edge,so some of the uncolored tile is visible. This is not a huge issue, but if it is readily fixable, how can it be fixed so that the grout meets the level of the tile?

Problem 2.

The cut long edge of the bullnose, that is, the side opposite the bullnose edge, is chipped/pitted on all pieces. This is a manufacturing problem. The edge resembles plywood cut from the wrong side. The rep is going to send more bullnoses from another lot number, but two lot numbers have this problem, so I doubt if this third lot will be any different.

The manufacturer's rep and the dealer are working very hard to solve this problem and are willing to absorb some of the cost associated with fixing it. But I need advice in case they can't solve it.

Square tiles in shower already installed (1/8" spacing) but not grouted. Awaiting solution with bullnose problem.

If the grout is the same level as the tile, the pitting might be obscured. So how does one grout to get the same level?

Can the bullnose pits be painted? If so, with what?

Can enough sealer be used to level the grout? Can sealer be colored?

I really like this tile, but didn't know enough to request samples of bullnose before making the decision.

Thanks for any help or advice.

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Comments (5)

MongoCT
15 years ago
If the installation is only a few days old, additional grout can be added over the existing. If the existing grout has cured well, and you're only adding a thin veneer of grout (thinner than the joint is wide), it's somewhat risky in that if you don't get a good bond, the new grout can flake.

If the grout is well cured or if you want to increase your odds, the existing grout can be taken down a bit. A grout saw powered by elbow grease, a cutting wheel or a diamond bit on a dremel, or a cutting wheel or angle grinder...your 1/8th inch widths make this difficult. The most laborious, but the least likely to damage the tiles, would be a hand held, elbow grease powered grout saw.

Take the grout down a bit, best bet it to make the joints as deep as the joints are wide. 1/8th to 3/16ths inch deep.

Add new grout, this time the installer shouldn't be so aggressive in cleaning the joints. A light touch going 45-degrees across the joints is all that's needed. It'll clean the tile yet leave the joints fully packed.

Pits in a cut edge can be painted, an epoxy paint works best in my opinion. If the grout is a color similar to the tile, the pits can be filled with grout and they will blend. If the grout is a contrasting color, grout-filled pits will stand out like a sore thumb, accentuating the raggedy edge.

Sealers will not build adequate mil thickness, as most are penetrating and not surface sealers, so they won't fill the grout joints.

Sealers really can't be colored, as they are usually transparent and don't create an opaque film buildup on the grout surface. They can be tinted, but it's a transparent coloration, not a solid body type of color.

Most sealers are colorless, but there are grout colorants (Aquamix being my favorite) that is a colorant and sealer. If you wanted to go that route I'd get in touch with Aquamix's tech department. You might be able to get some thickness build out of the product with one or multiple applications, it might be able to fill the grout joints and cover your exposed tile edges. I'm not certain though as I've never used it in that manner. But it is an excellent colorant.

Do be aware that the Aquamix grout colorant is an epoxy-type film, it sits on the surface of the grout.

Best bet is to regrout and to not overwork the joints when cleaning. That will give you your original grout/tile look, preserving the original design.

All that being said...rectified tile usually has a perfect 90-degree edge, so if you're already seeing the tile body color on the edges, the grout joints might already be 1/8" shy of the tile face. In that case you should be able to just add new grout over the existing without having to do any joint preparation.

My opinions...

Mongo
canishel
Original Author
15 years ago
Mongo,
Thanks for all that information! Super, as always.

The grout is several weeks old, so it looks like elbow grease is in order. The meniscus is more concave than other applications I've seen. Don't know if this is due to the 1/8" spacing, or the joint cleaning. In either case, wouldn't you think the grout was diluted with the cleaning? I'll see for what I can argue. One step at a time...

Thanks again.
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bill_vincent
15 years ago
The meniscus is more concave than other applications I've seen.

Let me guess-- they used unsanded grout?
canishel
Original Author
15 years ago
Bag says sanded grout. Brand is Polyblend.
bill_vincent
15 years ago
If that's the case, then they washed it out too much, as Mongo suggested. Going by manufacturer's usggestion, 1/8" is the "either/ or" point, and because of that, many installers will use unsanded grout with the 1/8" joint. It has a nasty habit of shrinking into the joint with an 1/8" joint, which was the reason for my last post.

Bill V and others: how to grout rectified tile,bullnose problems

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Bill V and others: how to grout rectified tile,bullnose problems

Comments (5)

MongoCT

canishelOriginal Author

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