Unless the vanity abutts the wall, I don't see how it would work. Atleast not with just a 4" splash. Here's one where it was an antique furniture style vanity, with a marble top, but it was abutted to the wall, so the splash didn't look like it was hanging in mid-air, so to speak:

Thanks, Bill. I was thinking to only do it where the back of the cabinet abuts the wall, and having it "sit" on the back of the granite countertop, similar in look to what would be done if I had the granite guys include a 4" backsplash w/ my granite top. I think the guy in this link more clearly explained what I was envisioning...

Here is a link that might be useful: Perhaps a better explanation...

bumping...

I don't see why not. As for finishing the edges, there are several options, depending on the specific material you use, from prefabricated bullnose, to making your own on site, to the metal bullnose strips available through Schluter, to trimming it with wood trim to match the vanity. The only limitation is really your own imagination.

Thanks so much for your input, Bill. Your advice is always greatly appreciated!

In your linked post, that person seems to want the backsplash to be integral to the vanity. That does complicate things a bit. Is that what you want as well?

If you don't need that, then just place your vanity, secure it to the wall, then tile directly on the wall. Leave a small gap (a grout joint width) between the bottom course of tile and the vanity top, and caulk that after grouting is complete.

And pretty much the same as what Bill wrote regarding the edges of the tile. The material you chose will dictate if you can use the "factory edge" or if additional detailing needs to be added.

Thanks for the reply, mongoct. Re: whether to tile on wall or if b/x is integral to vanity.. My walls are going to be painted tongue and groove pickwick paneling (v. similar to beadboard), so I don't think I can tile to that--or can I? I was assuming not, so that's why I was thinking I needed to make it sit atop the back of the granite vanity top. Sooo, what do you think now? Thanks!

Backsplash tile sitting on top of granite vanity. Attached to the wall. The finished edges are solved by the mirror frame.

OK Monica, I'll bite... what kind of kick-@ss lavatory SINK is that!

I was in a commerical restroom one time that had a long counter maybe 8 feet with a few sinks and it had a beautiful granite top but only the sides of the long counter were attached to the side walls. There was a gap along the back the back of the counter mabye inch and a half so it appeared to be floating. Then the tile material went from floor to meeet up with the large mirror several inches or more up from the granite height. I liked it, it looked very cool.

Thanks to all of you for your suggestions--it's wonderful to to be able to turn to these forums w/ these types of questions, knowing I'll be getting answers from others who understand my concerns.

And monicakm, thanks for the pic. BTW, I love your beautiful tile b/s, and that sink is just *gorgeous*!

fixizin...Is that cool or what! It's a glass sink from Oceana Glass. Made in undermount, drop in and vessel. Many colors to choose from. I was in such a tizzy trying to decide on a sink till I saw this one. It was love at first sight :)
Here's another view. Different angles and lighting creates changes in how the sink looks. Also it lights up the contents of the cabinet below from the overhead lighting. Some people attach a rope light around the rim of the sink (under the cabinet). It gives off a nice ambient glow at night :)

Here is a link that might be useful: Oceana Glass Sinks

"My walls are going to be painted tongue and groove pickwick paneling (v. similar to beadboard), so I don't think I can tile to that--or can I?"

You can tile on wood. But it does depend on the tile that you are using as well as the intended adhesive. Some of this is personal preference, what I mean is that if using "regular sized porcelain tile" sure, I'd not have a problem going over properly prepared wood. For glass mosaic? No.

The better bet would be to mark out the area for the backsplash. Then come in a half-inch or so from that perimeter line and mark a new cut line. In that area instead of your wood paneling, insert a fill piece of cement backer board. Pad out the backer board so the face is flush with the wood paneling.

Then you can do whatever you want on that space. Glass, ceramic, stone, mosaic, non-mosaic. And you can use the appropriate adhesive.

With the backer board being slightly smaller than the tiled area, your top course and side column tiles will lap over the backerboard/paneling seam for a nice transition.

If the edges of your intended tiles don't have a level of finish appropriate for exposure, then you could use a border or frame (wood or tile) to contain the design, just like in the photo above.

Mongo

I'd not have a problem going over properly prepared wood.

I would. Plywood, okay, but not dimensional lumber.

That's sort of what my "properly prepared" was for. I don't know if this will be sheet good beadboard or dimensional lumber planking. I'm not normally a mastic advocate for bathroom backsplashes, but that could be a way out of this as well.

But you're right, to be safest, a good tile backer board can handle all scenarios.

The walls will be 3/4" thick planking w/ either a beaded or pickwick style edge (run horizontally).